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Chulapos dancing the Chotis Celebrating San Isidro in Madrid If you're traveling to Madrid during the first half of May, you're in for a treat! The feast of Madrid's patron saint, San Isidro, is on May 15th and during the days leading up to it you'll get to see locals getting into the spirit. Click here to get the Essential 5‑Day Itinerary & Travel Guide — the exact plan I use to help travelers experience the city at its best. The Chotis The photo above is of Chulapos dancing the Chotis. The Chotis a customary dance in Madrid. During the first half of May each year you might have the good fortune to see Chulapos performing it in some of the more central plazas such as the Plaza de Oriente, La Puerta del Sol, and the Plaza Mayor. What are Chulapos? Chulapos are people dressed in the outfits typically worn by the people in the Malasaña neighborhood of Madrid at the beginning of the 19th century. Back then, citizens of Madrid dressed differently depending on the neighborhood where they grew up and lived. The most traditional classes, proud of their situation in society, sought to differentiate themselves from the French social elite (very present in the society of the time) whom they despised. This is when the identity of the current madrileño (Madrid native) really started to be established. A series of typical characters emerged, with very marked differences depending on where they were from in Madrid. Among them were the Chulapos of the Malasaña neighborhood. And the Chulapo eventually came to be representative of the whole city. Patron Saints In Spain and other countries, cities and towns have patron saints. The patron saint is chosen as the protector of the locality. The choice of patron saint is often based on some presumed relationship. Madrid's patron saint is San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore the Laborer). When speaking about the annual festivities, it is often shortened to just San Isidro. According to Wikipedia, Isidore the Laborer "was a Spanish farmworker known for his piety toward the poor and animals. He is the Catholic patron saint of farmers, and of Madrid..." and his feast day is celebrated on May 15th. Isidore was born near Madrid into poverty and eventually worked as a farm laborer. In this role he was witnessed performing various miracles which you can read more about on Wikipedia. Typical San Isidro Cuisine Rosquillas Traditional festival doughnuts in four styles—tontas, listas, Santa Clara, and francesas—sold across bakeries and San Isidro stalls. Limonada Madrileña A light Madrid‑style wine punch made with wine, lemon, sugar, cinnamon, and chopped fruit, served throughout May. Cocido Madrileño A hearty chickpea stew offered by many tabernas during the festivities as a classic midday meal. Pradera Street Foods Bocadillos de calamares, tortilla wedges, chorizo or morcilla sandwiches, and patatas bravas served at festival stands. Barquillos Crisp rolled wafers sold by traditional barquilleros, a nostalgic San Isidro staple. Regional Snacks Manchego, jamón, cecina, and other local cheeses and cured meats featured at pop‑up stands and markets. Torrijas Torrijas are a classic Madrid sweet made from milk‑soaked bread that’s lightly fried and finished with sugar, honey, or cinnamon. They’re usually associated with spring, so you’ll see them everywhere in May – bakeries, cafés, and even temporary festival stalls. They’re simple, comforting, and one of the easiest traditional treats to try during the celebrations. San Isidro Celebration Although you will be able to see evidence of the festivities all over the city, officially organized events will unfold primarily at the Matadero Madrid, la Plaza Mayor, la Pradera de San Isidro, and Vistillas gardens. There are many things planned this and every year, including more than 50 free musical concerts and typical foods. You can find more specifics here and at the official site which is in Spanish (the official schedule of events is generally not available in it's entirety until early May. One thing we hope you get to see other than the Chotis being performed are the Gigantes y Cabezudos (Processional Giants with big heads, photos above). In 2025 it was held on May 10th at 11:30 AM. Following is from the official brochure (translated from Spanish): San Isidro Schedule 2026 Pregón (Official Opening) What: The festival's official proclamation, delivered this year by Sonsoles Ónega, a well-known Spanish TV journalist, followed by a street parade with gigantes y cabezudos. When: 7 May, 18:30 parade / 20:00 proclamation Where: Plaza de la Villa Getting there: Metro Ópera; short walk through old Madrid down Calle Mayor Gigantes y Cabezudos (Street Parades) What: Parades of the famous giant figures through the streets of Madrid. There are three this year: the opening parade on May 7th with the pregón, a parade through the Pradera on May 15th, and a route through old Madrid on May 16th. When: 7 May 18:30 / 15 May 10:15 / 16 May 11:00 Where: 7 May departs Plaza de la Villa; 15 May departs Paseo 15 de Mayo; 16 May departs Centro Cultural La Corrala Getting there: Metro Ópera; follow on foot through the historic center La Pradera (Family Activities and Headline Concerts) What: Daytime family programming, chotis performances, food stalls, and free evening concerts all week. When / Notable acts: 10 May 21:30 Demarco Flamenco; 15 May 21:30 Las Ketchup; 16 May 22:00 Fangoria Where: Pradera de San Isidro, Paseo de la Ermita del Santo Getting there: Metro Marqués de Vadillo or Carpetana; arrive early for family programming Plaza Mayor (Concerts and Traditional Programming) What: Free evening concerts in one of Madrid's most iconic settings. When / Notable acts: 15 May 21:30 Nuria Fergó with the Banda Sinfónica (tribute to Sara Montiel); 17 May 21:30 Juerga Flamenca with Montoya and Carmona Where: Plaza Mayor Getting there: Metro Sol; pedestrian access and security checks at plaza entrances Las Vistillas (Indie, Folk, and DJ Sets) What: A mix of concerts, DJ sets, and the popular midday La Hora del Vermú sessions. On the feast day morning locals gather here for open-air dancing. When / Notable acts: 15 May 10:30 open-air dancing; 15 May 21:45 Camellos; 16 May 22:00 Triángulo de Amor Bizarro Where: Jardines de las Vistillas Getting there: Metro Puerta de Toledo Matadero (Verbenas and Family Zones) What: Nightly verbenas with live dance orchestras, plus daytime family activities and a gastronomic area. When / Notable acts: 14 May Orquesta Nuevo Versalles; 15 May Orquesta Gran Rockset; 16 May Orquesta Invictus Where: Matadero Madrid Getting there: Metro Legazpi Religious Rites and Procession What: A quinario (five-day devotional series) leads up to the Solemn Mass and procession on the feast day. When: Quinario 10-14 May; Solemn Mass 15 May 10:00; Procession 15 May 19:00 Where: Real Colegiata de San Isidro Getting there: Easy walk from Plaza Mayor through the La Latina neighborhood Closing Fireworks What: Fireworks shows to cap the two biggest nights of the festival. When: 15 May at midnight; 17 May at 23:00 Where: Pradera de San Isidro area Getting there: Use public transit and build in extra time getting home; crowds are heavy after both shows Calendar of Events Here's a brief calendar of events by day (a little redundant but you may find it helpful): Date Highlights Thu May 7 Gigantes y Cabezudos parade, 18:30. Pregón at Plaza de la Villa, 20:00 Fri May 8 Festival opens. Guided tour of Ermita de San Isidro, 11:00. Evening concerts at La Pradera Sat May 9 International Record Fair (Casa de Campo). Pradera Castiza traditional dancing. David Otero in concert, 22:00 Sun May 10 SEAT 600 vintage car show, 11:00. Fiesta de los Mayos at Plaza de Lavapiés, 11:00. Demarco Flamenco, 21:30 Mon May 11 Pradera Castiza dancing, 18:00. Tributo a Extremoduro, 21:30 Tue May 12 Chotis workshop, 17:00. La Milagrosa in concert, 20:00 Wed May 13 Madrid a la Carpa circus opens at Teatro Circo Price. Carlangas in concert, 21:30 Thu May 14 Cacharrería Pottery Fair opens at Plaza de las Comendadoras, 10:00. Los40 Anniversary Concert at Plaza Mayor, 19:00. Verbena with Orquesta Nuevo Versalles at Matadero, 20:30 Fri May 15 Feast Day Solemn Mass, 10:00. Giants parade at La Pradera, 10:15. Open-air dancing at Vistillas, 10:30. Cocido tasting, 14:30. Procession from Real Colegiata, 19:00. Nuria Fergó at Plaza Mayor, 21:30. Las Ketchup at La Pradera, 21:30. Verbena at Matadero, 20:30. Fireworks at midnight Sat May 16 Giants parade through old Madrid, 11:00. Festival de Danzas Madrileñas at Plaza Mayor, 12:00. Fangoria at La Pradera, 22:00. Baiuca at Plaza Mayor, 21:45 Sun May 17 Regional houses tribute at Plaza Mayor, 11:30. Juerga Flamenca with Montoya and Carmona, 21:30. Closing fireworks, 23:00 If you found this article interesting and helpful, you'll also want to read our article about sacred spaces in Madrid. Have you been in Madrid for this celebration? Drop us a comment and let us know or tell us about your most treasured memory of Madrid.

La Giralda, Cathedral Bell Tower, Sevilla, Spain Sevilla Travel Guide Sevilla, the capital of Andalusia, Spain, is a city steeped in history and vibrant culture. Known for its stunning architecture, flavorful tapas, and lively atmosphere, it offers a perfect destination for travelers. This guide will help you make the most of your time in this enchanting city, highlighting key attractions, historical context, and practical tips. Iconic Landmarks Key Terms Before we delve into information about the iconic landmarks of Sevilla, we want to share a few definitions you may find helpful in understanding what we describe. Cabildo: A cabildo is a local council or governing body, often found in Spanish-speaking regions, that managed community affairs or local government matters. In architectural terms, it's a specific space within a cathedral, often a hall or chamber where the council meets. Reconquista: The Reconquista refers to the period from the 8th to the late 15th century when Christian kingdoms in Spain fought to reclaim territory from Muslim rulers, culminating in the capture of Granada in 1492. Almohad: The Almohads were a North African Muslim dynasty that ruled over parts of Spain and North Africa during the 12th and 13th centuries, known for their architectural achievements and strict religious reform. Renaissance: The Renaissance was a cultural and intellectual movement in Europe, roughly from the 14th to the 17th century, marked by a revival of interest in art, science, and the classics of ancient Greece and Rome. Gothic: Gothic refers to a style of architecture that flourished in Europe from the 12th to the 16th century, characterized by features like pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses, often seen in cathedrals and large churches. The Cathedral The Cathedral and Alcázar of Sevilla are remarkable examples of Almohad civilization and Christian Andalusia following the 1248 Reconquista. The Giralda, an Almohad architectural masterpiece, influenced tower designs across Spain and the Americas. Cathedral of Sevilla The largest Gothic Cathedral in Europe, the Cathedral of Sevilla boasts five naves and an elliptical Cabildo, a Renaissance highlight by Hernán Ruiz. As one of the most ornate religious buildings worldwide, the Cathedral showcases a rich mix of architectural styles shaped by its complex history. The Granada Chapel contains Visigothic capitals, remnants of the original Cathedral destroyed in 712 by Arab conquerors. Sevilla thrived under Almohad rule, becoming the capital of a vast Muslim empire in 1147. The Giralda, initially a minaret of the Great Mosque built between 1172 and 1198, was converted into a bell tower after the city's reconquest. Topped in the 16th century with a bronze statue symbolizing Christian faith, it stands at about 105 meters. That's a bit more than the yardage of an American Football field! The only other remnant of the Great Mosque is the picturesque Patio de los Naranjos (orange trees). Construction of the Gothic Cathedral began in 1401, with contributions from various architects, marking Sevilla as a major international construction center enriched by New World wealth. La Giralda The cathedral's bell tower, La Giralda previously mentioned, is quite tall. Climbing the Giralda involves walking up a ramp that winds, sort of in a spiral, all the way to the top. If you are able to do this, be sure to wear comfortable shoes and be prepared to take brief breaks along the way. The views from the top offer breathtaking panoramas of the city, making the effort truly worthwhile. To enhance your visit, purchase tickets in advance online. Prices vary depending on what you want to do. The official website provides detailed information on ticket options and visiting hours. Some of the information presented here is from the official website: https://www.catedraldesevilla.es/la-catedral/patrimonio-de-la-humanidad/ (downloaded on 26 October 2024) The Alcázar Next, make your way to the Real Alcázar, another UNESCO World Heritage site known for its stunning architecture and lush gardens. Originally a Moorish fortress, the Alcázar showcases a blend of Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, reflecting the city’s complex history. Gardens of the Alcázar of Sevilla As you explore the beautiful gardens, you’ll encounter fountains, ponds, and a variety of plant species that create a serene atmosphere. Purchasing tickets well ahead of time is highly recommended, as it'll allow you to skip lines that are typically long at the entrance. It'll also guarantee you'll get a ticket. The official website provides valuable information on ticket sales. Prices vary depending on what's included. The Alcázar's intricate tile work and stunning courtyards, such as the Patio de las Doncellas, make it a must-visit. This site has also served as a filming location for popular series like Game of Thrones, adding to its allure. If you plan to see the Cathedral and the Alcázar in the same day, you'll want to break for lunch in between. There are various places in the nearby Santa Cruz neighborhood (see below) and there are places across from the University of Sevilla also nearby. We had lunch at Restaurante Realcázar across from the university when we visited in the Spring of 2023. The food was tasty and well prepared and the service was friendly and attentive. Some of the information presented here is from the official website: https://www.alcazarsevilla.org/historia/ (downloaded on 26 October 2024) Cultural Gems Plaza de España Another place of interest in Sevilla is the Plaza de España, a grand architectural masterpiece constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition. The semi-circular plaza is adorned with colorful tiles representing Spain’s provinces, creating a visually striking atmosphere. The plaza is surrounded by a canal and beautiful gardens, providing a perfect backdrop for a leisurely stroll. You can even rent a rowboat and row in the canal for a lovely and memorable experience. As night falls, the plaza is colorfully illuminated, enhancing its magical ambiance. For more information, you can refer to local tourism websites or guidebooks, which highlight the significance of this iconic site. Exploring Triana Situated across the Canal de Alfonso XIII, also known as the Dársena del Guadalquivir (the Guadalquivir river basin), to the west of the historic center, Triana boasts a unique identity steeped in tradition and culture. The area is famous for its tapas bars, where locals and visitors alike indulge in delicious small plates, creating a social dining experience. The lively streets are filled with options. One place we really enjoy is Las Golondrinas, where they serve "raciones" or sharable portions of local favorites. A word to the wise is that their portion sizes are large. So, order in stages. Another place to visit is the Mercado de Triana where you can sample more of the local cuisine. We love to sit at a terrace bar along the Canal de Alfonso XIII in the evening, enjoying the stunning views of the illuminated city across the water. Triana’s charm lies in its lively atmosphere, making it an ideal spot for an evening out. Las Setas de Sevilla The Metropol Parasol, also known as Las Setas de Sevilla, is a striking wooden structure located in the Plaza de la Encarnación. Designed by architect Jürgen Mayer, it opened in 2011 and has quickly become a symbol of modern Sevilla. The structure features an observation deck offering panoramic views of the city, as well as a vibrant market and a museum showcasing Roman ruins beneath it. Illuminated at night, Las Setas creates a captivating atmosphere. Tickets for the observation deck can be purchased on-site or online for around €15. Check the website for information and to purchase tickets. What is the Symbol NO8DO About? The symbol "NO8DO" is a unique emblem of Sevilla, deeply rooted in its history. Its origins trace back to 1282, when Sancho of Castile rebelled against his father, King Alfonso X "The Wise." While many regions turned against Alfonso, only Sevilla, Murcia, and Badajoz remained loyal. In a bid to regain control, Alfonso sought assistance from former Muslim foes. He passed away in Sevilla on April 4, 1284, and Sancho was subsequently proclaimed king. A NO8DO Sign in Sevilla Historian Argote de Molina, writing three centuries later, claimed that the symbol was a gift from Alfonso to Sevilla, interpreting the "8" as a skein of yarn. This reading, "No madeja do," signifies Sevilla's unwavering loyalty (no me ha dejado translates to it hasn't left me). However, he also presented an alternative narrative suggesting the phrase "Noman Domini," meaning "In the name of God," was adopted by the city’s government long before Alfonso’s reign, with the yarn representing effective governance. Modern interpretations suggest the phrase may have originated from schools during Alfonso's era, reflecting his ambitions. Additionally, some traditions link "NO8DO" to Alfonso’s father, King Ferdinand III "The Saint," who expressed gratitude to the Virgin after the Reconquista of Sevilla in 1248. Today, "NO8DO" proudly adorns the city's flag and various locations, symbolizing Sevilla's rich heritage. Source: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/el-origen-del-no8do-francisco-javier-burrero-rodr%C3%ADguez/ (Downloaded on 26 October 2024) Shopping and Dining Calle Sierpes Don’t miss shopping on Calle Sierpes, one of Sevilla's main shopping streets. This bustling thoroughfare is lined with local boutiques, fashion shops, and souvenir stores, perfect for picking up unique gifts and enjoying the local shopping culture. You'll find trinkets for your home, alpargatas/espadrilles for your feet, interesting tee-shirts, designer clothing, and maybe some ice cream to cool you down in the afternoon or evening. Barrio de Santa Cruz Explore the picturesque Barrio de Santa Cruz for more shopping and dining options. This historic neighborhood, once the Jewish quarter, is characterized by narrow streets, charming squares, and a variety of restaurants. Enjoy a leisurely meal in one of the many outdoor cafés, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. We recently had a lovely meal at El Pintón, Calle Francos 42. The food was perfectly prepared and artfully presented. We were seated in an interior patio that was beautifully decorated and comfortable for a leisurely lunch. Tapas in Casco Antiguo For an authentic tapas experience, visit the Casco Antiguo area, particularly around the Plaza del Salvador. This lively square is surrounded by local bars, where you can sample a variety of traditional fare. Some local favorites include pescaito, lightly battered and fried fish, montadito de pringá, a savory sandwich of mixed meats (like the local grandmothers prepare), and the Piripi, a sandwich of pork, bacon, cheeses, tomato, and mayonnaise. Enjoy the lively ambiance, and don’t forget to try a refreshing glass of tinto de verano, a popular summer drink. Vino Fino, ice-cold, bone-dry white sherry with a slight earthy, umami palate, is also popular and pairs nicely with pescaito. Some places might also serve Godello, a popular young white wine. If you prefer beer, you're likely to find Cruz Campo on tap in most places and Alhambra is another local favorite. An evening of tapas and conversation with family and friends followed by a stroll is a perfect way to end your day. Additional Recommendations If you have more time, consider heading to the Alameda de Hércules, known for its artistic vibe and diverse dining options. This area is filled with tapas bars, trendy restaurants, and a lively nightlife scene, making it perfect for a relaxed evening out, especially for the younger crowd. Palacio de las Dueñas A visit to the Palacio de las Dueñas is highly recommended. This stunning palace, with its beautiful gardens and historical artifacts, offers a glimpse into Sevilla’s aristocratic past. The mix of Gothic and Mudejar architectural styles is captivating, and wandering through the palace grounds is a delightful experience. We spent an hour or so here a month ago (September 2024) and really enjoyed some of the more eclectic decor. There's also a bit of an equestrian theme. And, one of the most notable aristocrats in Spain, the Duchess of Alba, lived here. She was known for her influence and numerous marriages. Antonio Machado Antonio Machado lived for a time in the Palacio de las Dueñas. He resided there from 1912 until 1919. Machado was a prominent Spanish poet and playwright, known for his profound and reflective works that explore themes of love, nature, and the passage of time. He's considered one of the key figures of the Generation of '98, a literary movement that responded to Spain's social and political challenges in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. "Campos de Castilla" is one of Antonio Machado's most famous works, published in 1912. This collection of poems reflects his deep connection to the landscape of Castilla, the region in central Spain, and explores themes such as the passage of time, memory, and the human experience. The poems evoke the stark beauty of the Spanish countryside and often express Machado's concerns about the social and political issues of his time. In "Campos de Castilla," Machado also addresses the changing nature of Spain and its identity, making it a significant contribution to Spanish literature. His use of imagery and symbolism throughout the collection showcases his mastery of language and emotional depth, solidifying his status as one of Spain's most important poets. More Must-See Sites: Your Sevilla Travel Guide Continues Update: We enjoyed our tour of the Palacio de las Dueñas so much that we looked into other similar experiences before our trip in November, 2024. On that trip we visited the following noteworthy sites and wrote about them on our blog. Casa de Pilatos - This small historic palace offers two tour options. The downstairs tour is self-guided and there's a guided tour of the upstairs. Itálica - Just a short trip by taxi, Uber, or bus from Sevilla, Itálica is an active archeological site of roman ruins. There you'll see remarkable structures, gardens, a bird sanctuary, statuary, and mosaic tiles that were once the floors of dwellings. Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija - This endearing palace is where the Countess of Lebrija rescued and installed mosaics and other artifacts from Itálica from vandals before it was a protected landmark. Like La Casa de Pilatos, this palace tour is self-guided downstairs and guided upstairs; all on the same ticket. The tour was one of the most memorable for us. Basilica de la Macarena - This beloved basilica is stunning. We need to go back and see it when we have more time. We had spent more time than anticipated at the Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija and arrived just a short while before the church service was to begin. Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla - This museum of fine art is quite expansive. The building itself is remarkable with its patios and gardens. And it's filled with regional art spanning centuries. Day Trips from Sevilla Sevilla makes a wonderful base for exploring the surrounding Andalusian countryside. Two of our favorites are Ronda and Jerez de la Frontera, each offering something quite different and both well worth the drive. Ronda Ronda is about two hours from Sevilla by car, through scenic and occasionally slow single-lane roads that grow more dramatic as you climb into the hills. We left at 9 AM and aimed to be back by 9 PM, which gave us a solid eight hours on the ground. Puente Nuevo, Ronda Park at Parking Martínez Astein at the northeast end of Carrera Espinel, Ronda's beloved 700-meter pedestrian shopping street, and walk downhill toward the bullring. Turn left and you'll reach Plaza España and the Puente Nuevo, the iconic bridge spanning the Tajo de Ronda gorge. The vistas from the plaza are breathtaking, but the real highlight is descending into the gorge on foot. Cross the Puente Nuevo, turn right onto Calle Tenorio, and follow the cobblestone path down from Plaza de María Auxiliadora. Wear sturdy shoes. The views of the bridge from below are extraordinary, and El Morabito, a terrace café at the top with two friendly resident cats, is the perfect reward for the climb back up. After the gorge, we had a long, gourmet lunch at Restaurante Abades near the bullring, one of the best meals of the entire trip. We then toured the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda (built 1785) and the Arab Baths, with their remarkable star-shaped skylights. On the way back to the car, Carrera Espinel comes alive with shops, and in December, Christmas lights and music make for a truly magical send-off. We didn't have time for the Old Bridge (Puente Viejo, 1616), the Roman Bridge, the Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra, the Gardens of the House of the Moorish King, or the Roman theater ruins at Acinipo. Ronda could easily fill two days if you're inclined to stay. We think it would be fun to stay at the Parador on Plaza España and explore all of these at a leisurely pace. Jerez de la Frontera About an hour drive from Sevilla, Jerez de la Frontera is close enough for a half-day, though we stretched it into a leisurely afternoon. Our agenda was simple: a gourmet lunch and a sherry bodega tour and tasting. Both delivered. We had lunch at Restaurante Albalá, recommended by a professor at the University of Sevilla, and it was genuinely one of the most creative meals of the trip. Green gazpacho with sardines, corn taco with baby squids, lasagna noodles with galera prawn and saffron aioli, Iberian pork meatballs with octopus, and for dessert, a heavenly pumpkin sponge cake with palo cortado sherry ice cream. Do not miss it. Tío Pepe Bodega, Jerez de la Frontera For the bodega tour, book well ahead because English-language sessions fill up fast, especially at the big names. We had hoped to tour Tío Pepe (González Byass), the most famous bodega in Jerez and the one most Americans will recognize by name, but couldn't get availability. That led us to Cayetano del Pino, where we did the "Cata 2 Vinos VOS" tasting featuring Amontillado VOS and Palo Cortado VOS (Very Old Sherry, aged a minimum of 20 years). We all really enjoyed it and came away with a genuine appreciation for sherry as a serious wine category. Other well-regarded options include Bodegas Lustau, Bodegas Fundador (home of Harvey's Bristol Cream), and Bodegas Williams & Humbert. If your first choice is sold out, don't be discouraged. Smaller bodegas often deliver a more intimate and memorable experience. After the tour, we walked past the illuminated Alcázar and along Calle Larga enjoying the Christmas lights among locals out celebrating the season together. Jerez has much more to offer than one afternoon allows, and we are eager to return and explore the city more fully. Check our blog for updates as we plan our next visit! When to Visit Sevilla The best times to visit Sevilla to avoid the extreme heat are during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to November). Spring is particularly beautiful, with mild temperatures, blooming flowers, and lively festivals, such as Semana Santa (Holy Week) and the Feria de Abril (April Fair). Fall offers pleasant weather as well, with fewer tourists and a chance to experience local cultural events. Winter (December to February) can be quite cool, but it’s usually mild compared to other European cities, making it another good option for visitors who prefer cooler temperatures. During the summer months (June to August), Sevilla can become extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C (95°F), making outdoor activities uncomfortable. If you must visit in the summer, try to plan your activities for early morning or late evening when it’s cooler. Sevilla is a city that captivates the heart with its blend of history, culture, and culinary delights. With this guide, you're set for an unforgettable 2-3 day adventure, experiencing the best that this enchanting city has to offer. From its iconic landmarks to vibrant neighborhoods and delicious tapas, Sevilla promises an enriching journey for every traveler. Enjoy your trip! We hope you found this information useful and enjoyed learning about the gem of a city that is Sevilla. We're about to embark on another trip to Sevilla to explore it even more. So, check back in a month or so to learn more about this wonderful place. Drop us a comment and let us know what you're wanting to see and do in Sevilla. Enjoy your adventure!

The Beautiful Giralda Bell Tower Against the Evening Sky Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first five articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla (Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Four, Day Five, Day Six). If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or perhaps you're mostly interested in reading about our activities during our final fun and enriching day in Sevilla. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here! A Perfect Finale to a Week in Sevilla With just one day remaining of our Sevilla adventure, the city continued to captivate us with its layers of history, culture, and flavor. Six days of exploration had only deepened our appreciation for its Andalusian soul, and our last day was the perfect blend of past and present. Here’s how we made the most of our final moments. As you read about our time in Sevilla, think about your own must-see spots and share them with us! Morning: A Step Back into History Palace of the Countess of Lebrija We started the day with a peaceful morning walk through the Santa Cruz neighborhood to the Palace of the Countess of Lebrija (Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija), a 16th-century palace known for its Roman mosaics and Mudéjar-inspired architecture. Without knowing its history, you’d never guess that behind the unassuming facade lies the legacy of a prominent early 20th-century owner and her exquisite adornments. The palace, originally dating back to the 16th century, gained new life in 1901 when Countess Regla Manjón Mergelina purchased and restored it over 13 years. She adorned the ground floor with Roman mosaics and archaeological treasures from various eras and cultures. The rooms were further enhanced with elements like Sevillian tilework from a ruined convent and wood ceilings from a palace in nearby Marchena. Wandering through the rooms of the palace felt like stepping back in time, surrounded by intricate designs and priceless artifacts, like the mosaic floors she had the foresight to rescue from pillaging in Itálica. The artistry and history of the palace were a perfect way to set the tone for the day. The tour was divided into two parts, downstairs and upstairs, both included on the same ticket. We arrived just after 10 AM and purchased our ticket at the entrance. The ticket agents informed us that the guided portion of the tour would begin at 10:45 and that we should meet our tour guide a few minutes beforehand at the base of the staircase. The remainder of the palace was available to us to freely explore before and after the guided portion; with the upstairs cordoned off due to its exclusively guided nature. There were plenty of informational plaques, exhibit labels, and display signs identifying and describing the various artifacts, works, and architectural features. The tour of the upstairs began at the top of the staircase where we were told about its origins and features. Then we entered the upper floor of the main courtyard and led clockwise around, entering the various rooms along the way. Each space was uniquely decorated for its purpose and we learned about the significant features and furnishings of each room. There were plenty of opportunities for questions along the way. Visiting this special palace was truly a unique and wonderful experience; one of our favorites, for sure. Pilate's House Our historical journey continued at Pilate's House (Casa de Pilatos), another spectacular palace blending Renaissance, Gothic, and Mudéjar styles. Built primarily between the 15th and 16th centuries, it was declared a National Monument in 1931. The palace owes much of its artistic and cultural significance to the Enríquez de Ribera family, who maintained close ties with Italy during the Golden Age. Over the centuries, it underwent various transformations, including Romantic-style renovations in the 19th century. The palace is celebrated for its intricate design, combining elements from different eras, and has even served as a backdrop for numerous films. Located near the Alcázar and Cathedral, it is one of Sevilla's most iconic private residential complexes. The Enríquez de Ribera family expanded the Pilate's House by acquiring neighboring houses and plots of land between the 15th and 16th centuries. They integrated these properties into a cohesive architectural complex, adding halls, courtyards, and gardens. This process allowed the palace to evolve into the most opulent private residential complex in Sevilla. When you visit, there are two separate tours, a tour of the ground floor and another of the upstairs. You can go to the top of the stairs without purchasing the upstairs tour. But you can't get beyond the door without a ticket and the assigned tour guide. We arrived at 12:30 and had to be in Triana by 2 PM for lunch. This gave us just an hour here, which is about enough time to tour the downstairs portion. We'll have to return someday to tour the upstairs rooms and admire and learn about the opulent furnishings there. This site offers a serene courtyard with bubbling fountains and decorative arches that transport you to another era. Parts of Game of Thrones were filmed here, which added a touch of cinematic excitement. Lunch and Afternoon Entertainment Arrocería Criaito for Paella! Crossing the Isabel II bridge and entering the Mercado de Triana, we arrived at Arrocería Criaito for our pre-arranged paella lunch. Our lunch reservations, made a week or so earlier, were at 2 PM. Known for its delicious rice dishes, this spot was ideal for a relaxed meal. We opted for a delicious seafood paella, called "del Señorito" or "Señoret" which is a "gentleman's" paella adorned with shelled seafood (you don't have to use your fingers to remove shells yourself). Of course we also had plenty of bread and a a starter or two to share. All of this, paired with great company and our beverages of choice while soaking in the market’s vibrant energy, made for a truly memorable experience. It was the kind of lunch where the flavors linger in your memory long after the last bite. If you go, we recommend calling several days ahead of time to make a reservation, and order the type of paella you prefer when you make the reservation. We were able to communicate with them on WhatsApp. You could also ask your hotel for assistance making the reservation. Menu at El Típico After lunch, we strolled over to El Típico, a welcoming bar and one of our favorites, several blocks farther into Triana. From the market we walked along Calle San Jacinto with its shops and restaurants. Less than five minutes later we arrived and ordered some beer and wine. You can take your beverage outside and stand by the windows, enjoying each other's company while people watching. This is what we did. They have excellent tapas but we had filled our bellies at lunch. So, it was just beverages for us this time. The friendly staff and full tables alive with chattering patrons really make it feel like the perfect neighborhood hangout. If you find yourself in Triana looking for a tapas place, we know you'll enjoy this one. Afternoon: Riverside Views and Santa Cruz Shopping Calle Betis Calle Bétis Next, we walked along Calle Bétis, a charming street lined with colorful facades and views of the Torre del Oro across the river. Along the way we passed a number of bars and restaurants. We stopped at one with a sidewalk terrace and ordered some more refreshments. The area’s laid-back vibe invited us to slow down and share the moments with each other. Then it was time to make our way back to the Santa Cruz neighborhood. Santa Cruz Shopping We returned to Santa Cruz, the city’s historic heart, for some last-minute shopping. While we had one place in mind, that didn’t stop us from browsing other locations. Tucked along one of the quaint alleys of the Judería, Orange Tree Sevilla offers a variety of locally crafted souvenirs. We found ceramics, olive oil, other unique items, and even orange blossom gin. They offered tastings of various products in case you wanted to try something before purchasing it. This shop was perfect for bringing a touch of Sevilla home with us. Santa Cruz’s maze-like streets and hidden plazas are always a delight to wander, even if you don’t have a destination in mind. Evening: Modern Architecture, Historic Dining, and Farewell Drinks Beer at Café Square We wanted to do some more shopping on our last evening in Sevilla and we knew just where to go. One of the premier shopping streets in the historic part of Sevilla is Calle Sierpes. There's something for everyone. It runs north and south on the edge of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. At the north end of the street you turn left and walk several blocks to las Setas. So, it fit the bill geographically, being just slightly out of the way. We enjoyed our shopping, looking in various shops. Then our group split up briefly as some of us wanted to be on our way sooner than others. We arrived at Plaza de la Encarnación, the location of Las Setas, and stopped into Café Square for a beer while we waited for the rest of our group. Las Setas In the evening just after dark, we visited the Setas de Sevilla, also known as the Metropol Parasol. This striking wooden structure is a modern architectural marvel and a popular spot for panoramic views of the city. Some recommend going for the sunset. but we went at night. The sight of Sevilla illuminated at night was stunning and felt magical among the waves of colored lights at our feet. No matter what time of day you go, you're sure to have wonderful views of the city in all its glory from a very unique perspective. El Rinconcillo Dinner was delicious tapas with great conversation and good laughs at El Rinconcillo, the city’s oldest bar, dating back to 1670. We enjoyed several traditional tapas and some beverages, of course. Standing at a hightop table across from the bar, we soaked in the rich history of the place. The food was tasty and the service was top notch. We certainly recommend it. It's a very popular destination. We lucked out and arrived just before they opened which meant we had no problem getting in and finding a table. Reflecting on Sevilla Looking back, Sevilla has been everything we imagined and more: a city steeped in history, alive with culture, and bursting with flavor. Each day offered its own unique experiences, and our final day was the perfect mix of old-world charm and modern delights. As we packed our bags, we found ourselves already dreaming of the next visit to this unforgettable city. Have you visited these historical sites in Sevilla? Which of these places grabs your attention the most and why? We wold love to hear from you in the comments!

Alcázar de Jerez de la Frontera Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first four articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla (Day One, Day Two, Day Three, Day Four). If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in the places mentioned in this one. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning more about our magical trip to Sevilla. Traveling with a Group Unless you're traveling alone, as the trip planner, you should consider the needs of everyone in the group. There are things we've learned over years of traveling that you really don't need to learn by trial and error. So, we wrote this short article to provide a bit of guidance. Basilica La Macarena (and stops along the way) In the morning, we had a visit to the Basilica de la Macarena on our agenda. So, we left our hotel and made our way to the basilica through the charming Santa Cruz neighborhood. As we've noted in previous articles, this picturesque area is known for its narrow, winding streets, and historic architecture. As we strolled through Santa Cruz, we discovered quaint plazas like the Plaza de San Leandro, where we paused to admire the tranquil atmosphere and its babbling fountain. Continuing our walk, we encountered beautiful little churches, such as the Church of Saint Marina (Iglesia de Santa Marina), each with its own unique charm and history. The architectural details and serene ambiance of these churches added to the magic of our exploration. Along the way, we also indulged in some window shopping. This leisurely morning stroll through Santa Cruz was a delightful way to immerse ourselves in the local culture and history, setting the perfect tone for the rest of our day's adventures. Afternoon trip to Jerez de la Frontera After enjoying morning activities in Sevilla, we took our rental car to Jerez. We had just two things on our agenda for the afternoon: a leisurely gourmet lunch, and a sherry bodega tour and tasting. While we relished our gourmet lunch and sherry, we were aware that Jerez has much more to offer. Unfortunately, time didn't permit us to explore further on this trip. However, we are eager to return and fully immerse ourselves in this charming city. In this article, we'll share details of our adventure and highlight the attractions we hope to visit next time, ensuring we get the full Jerez experience. Lunch at Restaurante Albalá We arrived at our restaurant in Jerez de la Frontera just in time. Because it was Thanksgiving, we wanted to enjoy a special meal together. We knew we were going to miss the traditional foods we typically enjoy on this holiday. We were very pleased with our leisurely gourmet lunch at Restaurante Albalá. It was an unforgettable experience. The menu was so creatively wonderful that it was difficult to choose just a few dishes. The friendly service, meticulously prepared and beautifully plated food made every bite delightful. We started with well-crafted cocktails and delicious artisan bread. We were very impressed with the creativity of the restaurant's offerings and we feel compelled share how they are described on the menu... green gazpacho with sardines and pickled vegetables, tomato salad with salted tuna belly and basil, corn taco with baby squids and spicy brava sauce (we each had one of these), cured pork tenderloin omelette with mushrooms and chili peppers, lasagna noodles with galera prawn, squid, and saffron aioli, sea bass with beans and clams stew, Iberian pork meatballs with octopus, and matured veal hamburger. Each dish was truly a masterpiece. For dessert, we shared a heavenly pumpkin sponge cake with palo cortado sherry ice cream, honey, and orange. The restaurant, recommended by a college professor at the University of Sevilla, truly lived up to its reputation. After lunch we moved our car from it's temporary parking near the restaurant and then walked around town a bit. We walked past the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre), an institution dedicated to preserving the equestrian arts in the Spanish tradition. The school is known for its impressive show "How the Andalusian Horses Dance," which showcases the skills of Andalusian horses and riders in a captivating equestrian ballet. We had not planned to go and it was closed at the time of our visit. However, you can visit the school and see the show if you're going to be there in the early afternoon. Check their website for more information. Cayetano del Pino sherry bodega tour and sherry tasting Our visit to the Cayetano del Pino sherry bodega was a delightful experience. Having made reservations a few weeks in advance, we initially hoped to tour the nearby Tío Pepe bodega, but their schedule didn't align with ours. A bit of research led us to Cayetano del Pino, where we did the "Cata 2 Vinos VOS" tour. This intimate tour, lasting about an hour, offered fascinating insights into the history of sherry, the various types, and the intricate production process. Our knowledgeable guide provided detailed information and anecdotes, making the experience both educational and engaging. We all really enjoyed the sherry tasting, featuring two exquisite VOS (Vinum Optimum Signatum, or Very Old Sherry) varieties: Amontillado VOS and Palo Cortado VOS. We have a new found appreciation for this category of wine and we're trying to find a good source to purchase some at home. Our local shops don't carry much of a variety of sherry. So, we're probably going to have to drive a bit to find what we're in search of. The experience was enhanced by a visit to the bodega's charming gift shop, where we browsed a selection of sherries and related products. If you're a wine lover, whether or not you're familiar with sherry, we recommend doing a tour like this. After the sherry tour, we made our way past the beautifully illuminated Alcázar, which stood majestically against the evening sky. We then walked along Calle Armas to Plaza del Arenal and then along Calle Larga, enjoying the Christmas lights as we went. We were wondering how we missed this vibrant part of town earlier in the day. This might have been the first night the lights were turned on, adding to the festive atmosphere. Many locals were out with family and friends, delighting in the display of lights and celebrating the season together. It was really nice to end our visit to Jerez among the local festivities. Tapas in Sevilla An hour later we were back in Sevilla and, after parking our car in an underground lot, we took a short walk over to La Isla on Calle Arfe, making it just in time for our reservation. We had reserved a table on the terrace in front of the restaurant and the weather was just warm enough for it to be comfortable for all of us. We enjoyed cocktails and then shared a few "raciones" or sharable portions, including a cheese board, shrimp croquettes (croquetas de carabineros), and deep fried octopus. The octopus was quite a production. The whole octopus had been battered and deep fried to perfection. They brought out a special cart and the table side chef expertly carved and plated it while we watched. It was really a nice way to end the day. We called it a day a little earlier than usual (at least those of us of a more advanced age did) because we had an early day planned the next day and wanted a restful night sleep. Our whirlwind day trip from Sevilla to Jerez de la Frontera was a fun adventure with history, culinary delights, and festive charm. From the enchanting morning stroll through the Santa Cruz neighborhood to the gourmet lunch at Restaurante Albalá, and the insightful sherry bodega tour at Cayetano del Pino, every moment was filled with discovery and enjoyment. Though our time in Jerez was brief, it left us with an appreciation for the city's culture and a desire to return for a more extensive exploration. As we ended our day with delicious tapas back in Sevilla, we couldn't help but reflect on the day's memorable experiences and look forward to sharing our next adventure. Are you planning a trip to Ronda? What are you most looking forward too?

Cathedral of Sevilla, Interior Detail of Main Chapel Ceiling Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first, second, and third articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla. If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in the places mentioned in this one. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning about our magical trip to Sevilla. Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena If you read our article about day one of this seven-day chronicle you may recall that we tried to visit this church on that day, but were unable to. Since we were going to be nearby, we decided to try again. We had stayed out late the night before and got started about an hour later than we had intended. Consequently the doors had just closed before we arrived and we were not able to go in. We had not paid attention to the closing time... If you want to visit, pay close attention to the hours on their website and plan accordingly. We were both disappointed and amused that we missed the chance to visit twice! It became a bit of an inside joke for us. Hopefully we'll get to see it one day. If you haven't already, you can read more about it in our previous article. Lunch at Restaurante Realcázar Salmorejo (Spanish Cold Tomato Soup) Restaurante Realcázar is located across from the university, and offers a fusion of traditional and contemporary cuisine. They offer salads and lighter fare as well as local favorites and delicious entrees, making it a convenient spot for a refreshing meal if you're planning to spend the afternoon in this part of town. As a bonus, just south of this restaurant, you'll find some shopping, including a vintage clothing shop or two. After our late night out, the craving for something fresh and light was strong. On this particular day they were quite generous with the salad dressings. So, if you prefer a lightly dressed salad, we recommend requesting it on the side or lightly dressed. The salmorejo (cold tomato soup decorated with egg white and serrano ham) was delicious and very filling. With their wide variety of offerings at a reasonable price, this place is sure to please everyone in your group. Exploring the University Fountain in a Courtyard of the University The University of Sevilla, established in 1505, is one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Spain. It offers a wide range of undergraduate and postgraduate programs and is known for its beautiful campus. The University's main building, known as the Royal Tobacco Factory (Real Fábrica de Tabacos), has a fascinating history. Originally constructed between 1728 and 1771, it was one of the largest industrial buildings of its time. Walking through the university, you could feel the rich history and academic spirit. The mix of old and new buildings, bustling students, and serene courtyards made it an enjoyable place to explore. In some ways it reminded us of our days studying at the University of Alcalá de Henares which was established in 1499. To us, some of the most remarkable architecture in Spain is that of its oldest universities. And this main university building in Sevilla is easily visited as a slight detour on the way from the Cathedral to the María Luisa Park (where the Plaza de España is located). Just walk down Calle San Fernando, enter the gates at the main entrance, walk through the building, stopping to learn about its history and take in the masterful architecture. Then exit the other side turning left onto Calle Palos de la Frontera. From there it's just a short walk to the park and the Plaza de España. Hanging Out at the Plaza de España Plaza de España, Sevilla One of Sevilla's most iconic landmarks, the Plaza de España is a large semicircular "square" in the center of Sevilla, built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It's a stunning structure with beautiful tiled foot bridges and alcoves representing different Spanish provinces. We also love the beautiful central fountain. If you want, you can rent a little row boat and navigate along the canal. It can be a little tight. So, it's a good idea to have at least one person in the boat with a little rowing experience. We chose not to do the row boats on this particular day due to time constraints. By this time of the afternoon the sun was high in the sky and it felt quite warm. So, after we enjoyed the fountain in the plaza we checked out the ceramic tiles representing the provinces and then got a break from the sun, walking in the shade of the arcade. The Plaza de España is always a sight to behold no matter how many times you get to visit. The grand architecture, the intricate tiles, and the peaceful canal in the middle make it a perfect spot to take a leisurely stroll, and enjoy the beauty of this corner of the María Luisa Park. Visiting the Cathedral (La Catedral) Sevilla's Cathedral, (La Catedral de Sevilla), is a Gothic-style cathedral built in the 15th century. As previously noted, it's the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and houses the tomb of Christopher Columbus. When visiting, we listened to the audio guide as we made our way around the perimeter. Notable features include chapels, tombs, altarpieces, carvings, and ceremonial relics; and they are numbered with the corresponding section of the audio guide. So, you can listen to the whole thing in order or pick and choose based on what catches your eye. Since we had visited previously we decided to take the latter approach, and we learned a few new things in the process. The grandeur of the Gothic architecture with its soaring columns and ornate ceilings gave us an uplifting sensation. Let's take a fairly brief look at some of the key features of the Cathedral. You can learn more about them on the tour or online before you go, whichever suits you. Purchasing tickets online at the official site before you go will ensure you get in when you want to visit. One of the Cathedral's most iconic features is La Giralda. During the Almohad dynasty a mosque had been built on the site of the Cathedral and La Giralda was its minaret. Later on when the Cathedral was built, the minaret was converted into a bell tower for the Cathedral. Climbing the 34 cobbled ramps to the top is something that many would recommend. If you're able to do it, the walk up La Giralda is has its own little surprises. Each step on the numerous cobbled ramps brings you closer to the top and along the way there were small glass enclosures on the interior of the tower displaying various artifacts. Once at the top you're rewarded with panoramic views of the city, making the effort worthwhile. While there, we were able to identify other landmarks we had visited from a completely different perspective. The Chapter House (Sala Capitular) is another notable highlight. The Renaissance Chapter House, built in the 16th century, features a stunning elliptical dome. Here you'll find various paintings by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, one of the most revered baroque painters of the seventeenth century. Among these works is the Immaculate Conception and several paintings of saints. The intricate details and artistry as well as the masterful paintings by Murillo make it a must-see highlight within the cathedral. The Main Sacristy (Sacristía Mayor) of the cathedral also dates back to the 16th century. This space houses religious service items like monstrances and other relics. Its circular dome has a central skylight bringing light to the space, showcasing carved reliefs of the Last Judgment. Visitors can find a place of quiet contemplation in the Chapel of Saint Andrew (Capilla de San Andrés), which houses the Christ of Clemency (Cristo de la Clemencia), one of the greatest works of sacred art. The Tomb of Cristopher Columbus (Tumba de Cristóbal Colón) has been in the cathedral since 1899. Its sculptural group is conceived as a funeral procession with four heralds in period armor, and bearing the shields of the four Spanish kingdoms: Castilla, León, Navarra, and Aragón, symbolizing the unity of Spain. It's a true work of art. We carefully listened to the audio guide while viewing and learning about its key features. The Chapel of the Virgin of the Ancient (Capilla de la Virgen de la Antigua) is one of the most important chapels in the cathedral. It features a representation of the Virgin of the Ancient from the late 14th century. As Americans, we often find ourselves amazed by art and architecture that dates back so far. It's really hard to wrap your head around what went into creating things like this at a time when today's technology didn't exist. The Chapel of Saint Anthony (Capilla de San Antonio), converted into a baptistry in the mid-17th century, boasts a large central Renaissance baptismal font and two important paintings by Murillo. The massive painting that captured our attention is the Vision of Saint Anthony of Padua. We think you'll find it engaging too. Another significant feature is the Jubilee Altar (Altar del Jubileo) or Silver Altar, a colossal silver Eucharistic altar from the late 17th century used for extraordinary liturgical celebrations of the Blessed Sacrament. It's interesting how much this impressed us. We actually found ourselves wondering if people take it for granted when they attend a regular Sunday mass there. The Main Altarpiece (Retablo Mayor) is the grand altarpiece in the Main Chapel (Capilla Mayor) of the Cathedral, making it a focal point of the cathedral's interior. It's worth noting that this impressive work took eight decades to complete and features 45 panels of intricately carved and gilded scenes of the lives of the Virgin Mary, Christ, and various saints. Can you imagine? Artists working on this stunning piece of art probably had this as their main focus day in and day out during their adult life. It's truly amazing when you stop and think about it. Located in the transept just in front of the Capilla Mayor, the Chorus (El Coro) houses an imposing and majestic organ surrounded by carved wooden chorus seating. This was less captivating to us than some of the other features of the Cathedral. We did wonder what it would sound like when the organ is playing and the choir is singing. The space must be filled with joy or sadness depending on what hymn is being played. Finally, the Patio de los Naranjos, originally the sahn (open central courtyard) of the mosque, has undergone many restorations during the Christian period. This courtyard, with its orange trees, offers serene moments after what to us was an intense amount of sensory stimulation. It also served to remind us of the site's history. The Cathedral is quite an impressive place. To say we were in awe of the grand scale and ornate details would be an understatement; this despite the fact that we had visited previously. A Break for Tapas Bar la Hostería del Laurel, Santa Cruz, Sevilla After climbing the ramps of the Giralda and visiting the Cathedral we were ready for a little break. So, we headed into the Judería and found a terrace table at Bar La Hostería del Laurel (Pl. Venerables, 5) right across from Hospital los Venerables. The food was delicious and the service was attentive. We had good conversation and played a bit of cards together while waiting for our food to arrive. A memorable dish was the delicious grilled prawns. They even brought us little moist towelettes in a format we had never seen before. Imagine a little round, white pill served on a plate and doused with a bit of hot water, making it expand into a hot towel... it was an interesting surprise and we plan to look for these at home. We really enjoyed this little respite, before heading to our hotel to freshen up for the evening. March 31,2025 Update: We've been told that according to Google Maps, La Hostería del Laurel is temporarily closed. We don't know if this is true. If you find out otherwise, drop us a comment. We really enjoyed it. More Delicious Tapas In the evening we went to a few different places for tapas and small plates. The first stop was a place called Milonguitas (C. Tomás de Ibarra,2) where we enjoyed their Padrón peppers, Pork Tenderloin in whiskey sauce (Solomillo al Whiskey), and small meat pies (empanadillas). Then we walked around for a bit with the intention of trying the food at Castizo Tapas Bar (C. Zaragoza, 6). We were so glad we tried this place. While there we tried several dishes including gildas (white anchovy and basque pepper skewers), and savory mushroom tiramisu with parmesan froth and free-range egg. It was truly a delicious end to our immersive afternoon. We hope you're enjoying the chronicles of our magical journey through this enchanting city. Whether you're planning your own visit or simply dreaming of far-off places, we hope our stories inspire you to discover the treasures of Sevilla for yourself. We have three more chronicles coming, covering more about Sevilla, our half day trip to Jerez de la Frontera, our day trip to Ronda, and our last day in Sevilla.

Patio with Stepped Fountain, Hospital Los Venerables Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first and second articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla. If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in the places mentioned in this one. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning about our magical trip to Sevilla. Day 3 Itálica We started day three of our adventure in Sevilla taking a 15 minute taxi from the Cathedral to Itálica. Our daughter had visited it previously and told us what a gem of a place it was. We arrived with only plastic in our wallets and they only take cash. Fortunately there was a service station nearby and the attendant was able to help us get a small amount of cash (no ATM). Admission is only 1.5€ per person. So, just be aware of this and arrive with enough cash in your pocket. We're so glad we picked up the very informative brochure when we visited because we're using it to jog our memory while writing about it. Itálica was a Roman city dating all the way back to 206 BC. Much of the original city is now buried beneath the neighboring town of Santiponce. The part you'll see if your fortunate enough to go was built under the rule of Hadrian (117-138 BC). When you visit, you'll wander through an amphitheater, walk along the main avenues of the city, enjoy the intricate mosaic floors serving as remnants of the houses that existed long ago, view the baths, peer into a bird sanctuary, and much more. This roman city was largely forgotten until the 16th century when poet and humanist Rodrigo Caro began its rediscovery. In the 17th and 18th centuries, key figures like fray Fernando de Zevallos and Francisco de Bruna contributed to understanding its ruins. In the 19th century, romantic travelers revived interest, while Demetrio de los Ríos led more formal excavations and his successor José Amador de los Ríos exposed ongoing looting. Itálica was declared a National Monument in 1912, marking the beginning of organized archaeological efforts. Throughout the 20th century, scholars like Antonio García y Bellido advanced the study and preservation of the site. In 1989, the Regional Ministry of Culture took charge, overseeing protection, research, and conservation. After our leisurely visit to Itálica it was time to meet for lunch in Triana. We arrived a half an hour early. So we found a table at a bar in the Mercado de Triana where we enjoyed Cruz Campo beer and rosé wine from the Rueda region. Lunch at MaríaTrifulca View of Sevilla from the Rooftop Terrace of the MariaTrifulca Restaurant When in Sevilla, if you want to have lunch at a nice restaurant with delicious food, attentive service, and a nice wine list, all with an excellent view of Sevilla across the river from a rooftop terrace, MariaTrifulca fits the bill. It's easy to find because it's right across the street from the Mercado de Triana (a fun place to shop and dine) on the Triana side of the Isabel II Bridge (Puente de Isabel II). It's not inexpensive, but it's also not over the top pricy. Our bill was less than 75€ per person and we enjoyed several starters such as burrata with tartar, croquettes, fresh oysters, and bread and picos, of course. If you don't know what picos are, you'll find out when you visit. They are crunchy, bite-sized breadsticks that are often served with tapas, olives, or cheese. They are a part of Spanish tapas culture and are especially common in the Andalusia region of southern Spain. The main dishes we enjoyed were tuna ribs (costillas de atun), red tuna tartar (tartar de atun rojo), estuary sole (lenguado de estero), and Iberian pork shoulder steak (presa ibérica) prepared with a brandy sauce. Of course this was all accompanied by two types of french fries and some sautéed mixed vegetables. A couple of bottles of rosé wine helped us wash it all down. And we shared the cheesecake for dessert. A word to the wise, if you have a reservation for an outdoor terrace table and the weather is rainy or windy, they'll cancel your reservation (this disclaimer is on their website when you make the reservation). We had reserved a table inside. When we arrived we asked if we could be seated on the terrace. Fortunately for us they had a table available! It was a very memorable, long lunch with plenty of great conversation and some good laughs. Museo de Bellas Artes The Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla is a treasure trove of Spanish art, housing works from the medieval period to the early 20th century. The museum features an impressive collection of paintings by renowned artists such as Murillo, Zurbarán, Francisco de Herrera the younger, and Valdés Leal, who were prominent during the Golden Age of painting in Sevilla in the 17th century. It's just 1.50€ per person to enter and you don't need to purchase tickets ahead of time. Visitors can admire a portrait of the famous Spanish literary figure Gustavo Adolfo Béquer, as well as masterpieces by El Greco. Another highlight is the vibrant painting "Sevilla en Fiestas" by Gustavo Bacarisas, which captures the lively spirit of Seville's festivals. The museum itself is housed in a former monastery, beautifully renovated in the Mudéjar style, and features stunning patios that offer a serene escape. These patios, with their lush greenery and tranquil fountains, provide a perfect backdrop for reflecting on the art within. Whether you're an art enthusiast or a casual visitor, the Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla offers a rich and diverse experience that showcases the best of Spanish artistic heritage. Hospital de los Venerables Chapel of the Hospital Los Venerables, Sevilla After spending an hour or so in the lovely fine arts museum, we made our way back to the Santa Cruz neighborhood to see the Hospital Los Venerables. This memorable little building was built in 1675 to house elderly priests. Initially funded by the Brotherhood of Silence, it served as a residence for priests until the 1970s. Over time, it also functioned as a textile factory and now houses the Velázquez Center. This beautiful structure is tucked away in the Judería in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The central patio, the cover photo of this article) features a stepped fountain with circular steps decorated with tiles. Surrounding the courtyard are galleries with Tuscan arches on marble columns. Upstairs, there's an art gallery showcasing works by Diego Velázquez and other Sevillian artists. The beautiful chapel pictured here was built in 1689 and is dedicated to San Fernando. The stunning frescoes adorning its interior were created by Valdés Leal and his son Lucas Valdés. The visit was less than an hour and we're so glad we made the time to see it. If you plan to be in Sevilla and can squeeze this into your schedule, it won't disappoint! We finished our day with some tapas for dinner in the Santa Cruz neighborhood followed by a bit of carousing with the younger crowd. All in all it was a well rounded day with a variety of intriguing, fun, beautiful, and entertaining activities. Day three of our Seville adventure was a captivating blend of ancient history, delightful dining, and cultural enrichment. From our fascinating exploration of Itálica, with its rich Roman legacy, to the leisurely lunch at MaríaTrifulca with stunning views of the city, every moment was memorable. The artistic treasures at the Museo de Bellas Artes and the charming visit to the Hospital de los Venerables added layers of beauty and history to our day. Concluding with tapas in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, we enjoyed great company, conversation, and laughter. Seville continues to enchant us with its diverse experiences and timeless charm, leaving us eagerly anticipating the adventures that lie ahead. Did you learn anything new about Sevilla today? What ar you planning to see when you visit?

Plaza de Santa Cruz, Sevilla Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first article in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla. If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in the places mentioned in this one. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning about our magical trip to Sevilla. Discovering La Judería: Shopping, Gardens, and Historic Places La Judería is the historic Jewish quarter of Sevilla, characterized by its narrow, winding streets, whitewashed houses, and a rich cultural heritage. This area is not only steeped in history but also brimming with charming artisan shops that offer a variety of locally produced items. As you stroll through the maze-like streets, you'll encounter shops selling unique art, beautifully crafted ceramics, exquisite jewelry, and stylish clothing, all reflecting the local craftsmanship. You may want to use your map app to help you get around this network of narrow streets. We downloaded the map of Sevilla when we were connected to wifi at our hotel. This allowed us to use the map and navigation around the city without using data. Something we like to do is have one person be in charge of navigation. They can pair one earbud with their phone, map the next location, and listen to the navigation steps with their phone securely in their pocket. This way it's possible to experience everything around you without looking at your phone. It really is a charming section of Sevilla and you won't want to spend it looking at a screen. You may occasionally need to get a visual of the map, though, because you'll inevitably come to a plaza and not really know which way you need to go next. We started our morning with breakfast at Bar La Espuela (C/ Muñoz y Pabóon, 16). We could swear we remember snapping a few photos. But, we don't have any to share with you. Some of us enjoyed their tortilla de patata (potato and egg omelette; a perennial favorite throughout Spain) and others savored their pan con tomate (toasted bread with garlic, tomato and olive oil). This with coffee and a bottle of water to go was just 26€. One of our favorite spots in the Judería was Orange Tree Sevilla (Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 22), a delightful shop where we had the pleasure of participating in a gin tasting. You could also sample their orange scented olive oil among other products. The experience was fantastic, and we ended up purchasing some orange-themed items that quite literally captured the essence of Sevilla. The combination of shopping and the gin tasting made for a memorable visit, and it's a great way to support local artisans and producers while indulging in the flavors of the region. The next three sections of this article cover other sites and experiences we had in the Judería, The Plaza de Santa Cruz, Murillo Gardens, and Casa de Salinas were all memorable elements of our morning in this quaint part of town. Plaza de Santa Cruz Plaza de Santa Cruz is a charming square located in the heart of Sevilla's historic district. This picturesque plaza is known for its beautifully manicured garden, featuring lush greenery and an array of vibrant trees that provide a serene and welcoming atmosphere. One of the standout features of the plaza is the ornate lamp fixture in the center. This elegant piece adds a touch of old-world charm and serves as a focal point of the square. As you take in the beauty of the plaza, you'll notice the details of the lamp and appreciate how it complements the surrounding garden. Jardines de Murillo Jardines de Murillo is a serene and scenic park located in Sevilla, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty and historical significance. This park is named after the famous Spanish painter, Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, and is a popular spot for both locals and tourists. One of the highlights of our visit to Jardines de Murillo was encountering the massive fig tree that left us absolutely astounded. The sheer size and grandeur of this tree is truly remarkable and makes for a great photo opportunity. In addition to the fig tree, the park is adorned with numerous orange trees, which add a delightful touch of color to the surroundings. Occasionally we found ourselves having laughs while dribbling fallen oranges as if they were diminutive soccer balls. We had also done this in the Buhaira Gardens and even outside the main entrance to the Alcázar among other areas around the city. You might think that we're easily amused. These quirky memories still make us smile a few months later. We captured some of these moments on video that we're sure to view many times over. Casa de Salinas Casa de Salinas is a beautiful 16th-century palace located in the heart of Sevilla's historic district. This private residence is still owned by the Salinas family and offers a fascinating glimpse into the city's past. One of the standout features of Casa de Salinas is its stunning main patio. The patio is a stunning double-height courtyard showcasing an array of beautiful architectural features. Surrounded by rooms and a staircase, this central patio is adorned with marble columns that form graceful semicircular arches. The arches are decorated with intricate 16th-century plasterwork, while the walls are covered with exquisite tiles made in Triana from the same period.The intricate plasterwork and wood ceilings add to the grandeur of the space, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere. Interestingly, another patio, the garden patio, features a magnificent Roman mosaic from the 2nd century, dedicated to Bacchus. This mosaic was discovered during archaeological excavations in the ancient Roman city of Itálica, adding a unique historical connection to the property. Visiting Casa de Salinas allows you to explore the architectural beauty and historical significance of Sevilla, offering a deeper appreciation for the city's rich cultural heritage. We think It's a must-visit site for anyone interested in art, history, and the charm of Sevilla's historic homes, especially if you have more than a couple of days to experience Sevilla. When we went in November 2024 it was 12€ for the general admission with an audio guide in English, French, or Spanish (10€ for locals, groups, and retired people, 6€ for children under 11 years old). We got our tickets at the door with no problem. But buying them online will ensure you can go when it's convenient for you. Also, there are various other websites that say it's a guided tour. The audioguide is apparently the only option, though. Lunch at Hotel Alfonso XIII Hotel Alfonso XIII is one of Seville's most luxurious and iconic hotels, known for its stunning architecture and exceptional service. Located near the historic center, this hotel offers a perfect blend of elegance and comfort. The hotel's restaurant is a way to experience the interior even if you're staying somewhere else. We had visited Sevilla a few other times recently and knew we would want to splurge on an experience like this. Our long lunch at the hotel was a delightful experience. The attentive staff ensured that every detail was taken care of, making us feel welcomed and pampered. The menu featured a variety of delectable dishes, all beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. The combination of the exquisite food, delicious cocktails and the impeccable service made for an unforgettable dining experience. The hotel's dining room is located in the massive interior patio. This patio with its tiled floors and featuring a central fountain surrounded by manicured shrubs added to the charm of our lunch. Whether you're a guest at the hotel or just visiting for a meal, Hotel Alfonso XIII is a wonderful spot in Sevilla for a truly memorable dining experience. Real Alcázar Most people who've visited Sevilla will tell you about the Real Alcázar, a stunning palace complex in Sevilla, renowned for its intricate architecture and lush gardens. During our hour-long visit in the afternoon, we had the chance to revisit some of our favorite spots. Unfortunately, due to high winds earlier in the day, the gardens were closed during our visit. However, we were fortunate to have experienced their beauty on a previous trip. The Real Alcázar's gardens are an enchanting blend of fountains, orange trees, and manicured hedges. We would have spent at least an hour just in the gardens. If you go, you can get your ticket's at the official website starting at 35€. Don't wait to buy them at the entrance. The lines can be quite long, even in the off season and you may not even get in. Buying them online gets you in the door at your specific starting time without much of a wait, if any. There's even an option to get a combination ticket including the nearby Cathedral and Giralda tower, also must-see attractions in Sevilla. We especially enjoyed the Courtyard of the Maidens (Patio de las Doncellas), with its beautiful reflecting pool and intricate tile work. The Courtyard of the Plaster (Patio del Yeso) is another gem, showcasing exquisite plasterwork and arches that transport you back in time. The Hall of Ambassadors (Salón de Embajadores) left us in awe with its amazing ceiling, a masterpiece of craftsmanship adorned with intricate geometric patterns and rich colors. We also marveled at the Hall of Justice (Sala de Justicia), where the architectural details and historical significance are truly captivating. Guadalquivir River Cruise In the evening, we embarked on a peaceful Guadalquivir river tour with Get Your Guide. Technically, the tour takes place on the Canal de Alfonso XIII, which runs between the vibrant neighborhoods of Triana and Sevilla. This excursion offered a unique and relaxing perspective of the city. As we cruised along the canal, we were captivated by the twinkling lights of Triana and Sevilla reflecting on the water. The gentle movement of the boat and the serene ambiance made for a truly relaxing experience. It was a perfect way to wind down after a day of exploring and immerse ourselves in the beauty of the city at night. Seeing the illuminated landmarks and bridges from the water provided a different view of Sevilla's architectural splendor. The tour allowed us to appreciate the city's charm and history from a new angle, making it a memorable part of our trip. you can book online and there are various options. Tapas in Triana - Las Golondrinas, El Típico Enjoying tapas in Triana is a delightful experience that offers a true taste of Seville's culinary traditions. Two of our favorite spots were Las Golondrinas (the one on Antillano Campos) and El Típico. At these vibrant tapas bars, we enjoyed an array of delicious dishes. Some of our favorites included: small squid (chipirones), lamb chops (chuletas de cordero), Pork Tenderloin (solomillo), and other tasty tapas and portions (raciones). To accompany these delectable dishes, we enjoyed the locally produced Cruz Campo beer and verdejo wine while reminiscing about our previous visits to Triana and Las Golondrinas. This little gem of a place has great food with very reasonable prices. We even saved our receipt to show you! The combination of great food, drinks, and company made for a memorable evening. Triana is known for its lively atmosphere and excellent tapas bars, making it a must-visit neighborhood for anyone looking to experience the best of Seville's rustic cuisine. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a returning traveler, tapas in Triana is always a delightful adventure. Our second day in Sevilla was an unforgettable journey through its historic and cultural wonders. From the charming streets of La Judería and the serene beauty of Plaza de Santa Cruz, to the grandeur of the Real Alcázar and the relaxing evening river tour, each experience added to the magic of our trip. Dining on delicious tapas in Triana and reflecting on the day's adventures with loved ones made the day truly special. Stay tuned for more highlights from our journey in this enchanting city! What's on your list of things to see and do in Sevilla?

Mudéjar Palace, Buhaira Gardens, Sevilla Read our Sevilla Travel Guide First In the end of October 2024 we published our first Sevilla travel guide "Sevilla! Travel Guide: Stunning Architecture, Beautiful Gardens, Delicious Food and So Much More." If you haven't read it yet, we recommend that you start there and then come back to this article. It's just a nine-minute read and covers the main attractions, some history, and other practical information. Our Return to Beautiful Sevilla We recently had the pleasure of returning to Sevilla for a week. Our daughter had been living there for a few months, so this was an opportunity for her to introduce us to some of her favorite activities, restaurants, and the typical nightlife in Sevilla beyond what an average first-time visitor might do. As such, we got to see and do things we didn't have time for during our previous visits. In this series of articles we'll share our new experiences. We were a group of five and not all of us had previously been to Sevilla. So, we repeated some of the things we had experienced on previous visits. It's interesting how you see things differently with each visit. You notice things you hadn't noticed, learn details you didn't learn the first, second, or even third time you went. So, we'll not only cover the new experiences but also provide new-to-us info about some of the attractions covered in our Sevilla Travel Guide linked in the first paragraph above. Daily Agenda Sharing We had prepared our agenda in a Google Slides presentation with some high level details, including timing, confirmation numbers, addresses, and so forth. Each morning, one of us would send a text message to the group with a more concise version of that day's agenda. This way everyone knew what was on the agenda for the day with timing. With this information at our finger tips, we all knew where and when we had planned to visit each attraction or restaurant each day at a glance. This is extremely helpful for groups of multiple travelers. We borrowed this tactic from the Cheese Journey we went on in May 2024 and we're glad we did! We decidedly made the morning events before 10AM optional because some members of our group like to start their day later than others. Day One of Our Adventure Plaza del Cabildo Our first full day was a Sunday and our agenda started at Plaza del Cabildo. This is a tranquil, semi-circular "square" nestled in the heart of Sevilla, not too far from the Cathedral. It's known for its beautiful painted arches, part of a colonnade, and a segment of the city's original Moorish wall, reflecting its historical significance. Built on the site of the Colegio de San Miguel, which belonged to the Cathedral Cabildo (Council), the plaza showcases remnants of the school's patio pillars. Featuring a charming fountain and palm trees, it offers a serene escape from the busy area around the Cathedral. The plaza has several shops that add to its quaint appeal. On Sunday mornings, the plaza hosts a market with stalls offering stamps, coins, military insignia, archaeological pieces, and other collectibles. We were there on a chilly, drizzly morning in late November. So, although some have described this market as lively, it was a bit chill. There were locals and tourists visiting the stalls. We had imagined something similar to the Rastro in Madrid but on a much smaller scale. Our guess is that it's much more lively when the weather is warm and the sky is blue. Plaza del Cabildo was specifically on the morning agenda because we had read about the market and we wanted to check it out. There were a couple dozen stalls. So, it didn't occupy a lot of time. If you go, you might find some treasures to take home as souvenirs. We really enjoyed seeing the old posters, pins, and post cards, some of which brought back memories of long ago visits to this welcoming city. La Maestranza La Maestranza de Sevilla, one of Spain's most famous bullrings, offers a rich cultural experience. Begin your tour in the Patio de Caballos, where bulls and horses are prepared for bullfights. Visit the chapel, where matadors pray before entering the ring, and the infirmary, reflecting the dangers of bullfighting. The museum showcases costumes worn by famous matadors, vintage posters, and historical artifacts, providing insights into the evolution of bullfighting. Step into the bullring, admire the classic yellow sand and whitewashed walls, with seating areas offering clear views. And don't be shy. You and your partner can pretend to be bull and matador, playing around in the ring together. The Royal Box provides a splendid vantage point for the Spanish royal family and dignitaries. Conclude your visit at the gift shop, where you can find a variety of souvenirs, from postcards to traditional fans. We really enjoyed the gift shop and several of us found souvenirs. I seem to recall that they didn't accept cash, only cards for payment. La Maestranza is not just a bullring but a symbol of Spanish culture and history, offering a unique glimpse into one of Spain's most iconic traditions. The bullfighting season in Sevilla begins on Easter Sunday and concludes on October 12, which is significant as it coincides with Spain's National Day or Día de la Hispanidad. During this period, a variety of events are held at La Maestranza de Sevilla, including corridas (bullfights) and novilladas (fights with young bulls). Social opinions on bullfighting in Sevilla are divided. While some locals and tourists view it as a vital part of Andalusian culture and heritage, reflecting bravery and tradition, others see it as a controversial practice and advocate for its abolition due to animal welfare concerns. Despite modern debates, bullfighting has historically been deeply ingrained in Spanish culture, especially in Sevilla, and continues to attract both supporters and critics. This cultural dichotomy adds to the unique experience of visiting La Maestranza and understanding its role in Sevilla's heritage. Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena The Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena is a beautiful Baroque church in Sevilla, with construction beginning in 1692 by the renowned architect Leonardo de Figueroa. The church was consecrated on October 22, 1724. Originally serving a Dominican monastery, it became a parish church after the monastery's closure in the 19th century. Visitors can admire its stunning Baroque architecture and serene interior. Key features to look for include the main altar, adorned with intricate gold leaf decorations and a majestic altarpiece depicting various saints, as well as the breathtaking ceiling frescoes that portray biblical scenes and saints, and the side chapels, each dedicated to different saints and containing beautiful statues and religious artifacts. The church is open to visitors on Wednesdays and Thursdays until 1:30 PM, allowing visitors to explore after the last mass at 11:00 AM. Unfortunately, during our visit, we failed to properly plan and arrived when it was closed to the public. If you want to experience this but won't be in Sevilla when it's open to the public, the church's website offers a virtual tour, though it is in Spanish. Visiting the Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena virtually offers a unique opportunity to appreciate Sevilla's religious heritage and architectural beauty. Of course we got to see this baroque church from the outside and it didn't disappoint. The church boasts a captivating Baroque facade that immediately grabs your attention. The exterior is adorned with intricate stonework, including elaborate sculptures, decorative columns, and elegant reliefs that showcase the artistry of the Baroque period. The cheerful colors of the facade stand out against the surrounding buildings, making it a prominent landmark in Sevilla. As you approach the church strolling down Calle Reyes Católicos from the Paseo de Cristobal Colón/Puente de Isabel II, raise your view to the rooftops and you'll catch glimpses of the beautiful tiled roof and dome of the church. These features are especially striking from various street-level vantage points, offering a picturesque view as you walk down the street. The dome is adorned with colorful tiles that glisten in the sunlight, adding to the overall charm and beauty of the church. These vantage points provide an excellent opportunity to admire the architectural details and the harmonious blend of colors that make the Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena a unique visual experience among the surrounding city buildings. Restaurante Depikofino We decided to have lunch at Restaurante Depikofino, a charming spot located at Avenida de Eduardo Dato 29, in the Nervión section of Sevilla. This restaurant is known for its delightful Spanish cuisine, offering a variety of dishes such as tapas, rich salmorejo (a cold, creamy soup from Andalusia made from tomatoes, bread, olive oil, and garlic, and often garnished with hard-boiled eggs and cured ham), and perfectly cooked risotto with braised beef cheek (one of our favorites, locally called carrilladas, in contrast to other parts of Spain where it's called carrilleras). We couldn't resist trying their delicious Cruz Campo beer, which perfectly complemented our meal. We had made advanced reservations because it's a popular spot, especially before an afternoon Sevilla FC soccer match. We chose Restaurante Depikofino for its convenient location near the Ramón Sanchez-Pizjuan Stadium and the beautiful Buhaira Gardens, making it an ideal spot to relax and enjoy a meal before or after exploring these nearby attractions. The restaurant's cozy atmosphere and friendly staff made our lunch experience truly enjoyable. We had plenty of time to share stories and connect over a tasty lunch in one of their small interior dining rooms. Sevilla Match We went to the afternoon Sevilla FC match against Rayo Vallecano, one of the teams from Madrid, and it was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip. The stadium was very nice and we got some great photos and videos during the game. We had really nice seats just three or four rows back from where they do the corner kicks. During the game, several of the players who were not on field were doing drills on the sideline in our corner. This was very entertaining to watch, especially when the action was at the other end of the field. We're very used to attending sporting events in the US where it's very typical to have a few beers during the game. So, it's worth noting that they don't sell alcoholic beverages at the stadium and you can't bring your own in. Also, they won't let you bring certain items into the stadium such as metal water bottles, helmets, and other random items. Don't fret if you forget because they'll hold it in a locked room for you at no cost and give you a claim check to pick it up after the game. We absolutely recommend seeing a soccer match, either Sevilla FC or Real Betis or both. Real Betis is one of the teams associated with Triana and generally the working class. They are rivals with Sevilla FC. So, if you happen to be going to Sevilla when the they play against each other in the "Seville Derby" (El Gran Derbi), you'll probably be in for a treat. Be sure to sit on the side with like-minded fans, especially if you plan to wear your team's gear. This is serious business! In 2025 it's scheduled for March 30th, a wonderful time to be in Sevilla. Jardines de Buhaira The Jardines de Buhaira, also known as the Buhaira Gardens, are a historic and picturesque public park located very close to Restaurante Depikofino where we had lunch and about a ten minute walk from the soccer stadium. It was on our way back to the center and we were on foot. By the time we entered the park the sun had gone down and the park was beautifully lit. So, we got to experience it at a wonderful time of day. Originally created in the 12th century by the Almohad caliph Abu Yaqub Yusuf, these gardens were designed as a royal retreat and featured lush greenery, artificial lakes, and a grand palace. After the Reconquista (the historical period when Christian kingdoms gradually retook the Iberian Peninsula from the Muslim Moors), the gardens fell into disrepair but were later restored and expanded. Key historic buildings within the gardens include the Mudéjar palace, which stands over the foundations of an earlier Almohad palace (The Almohads were a Muslim dynasty and Berber confederation that ruled in North Africa and Spain from the 12th to 13th centuries.). The gardens also feature restored remains of the original Almohad pavilion, offering a glimpse into the past. The Buhaira Gardens are a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buhaira_Gardens, downloaded 2 Feb 2025) Fountain, Buhaira Gardens, Sevilla Our daughter had recently attended a class in these gardens where she learned about the Mudéjar palace, it's history and architectural features, and a curious story about people swimming in the restored artificial pond on the right side of the palace. Then we wandered through the gardens, planted with orange and olive trees. It was really a nice way to spend half an hour. We'll definitely return someday during the day time to see it in a different light. There is a terrace on the west side of the gardens where you can get refreshments if you wish. The park is due east of the Cathedral and an easy twenty minute walk. Tapas - En La Espero Te Esquina After the gardens we returned to our hotel to freshen up a bit before heading out for a dinner of tapas in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. Our daughter took us to one of her favorite places for tapas, En La Espero Te Esquina, a non-sensical name that we assume had been uttered mistakenly by someone years ago. It would make more sense as Te Espero En La Esquina which means I'll wait for you on the corner. Anyway, we sat at a table and ordered an abundant selection of tapas to share with wine and beer, yes more Cruz Campo, the beer of Sevilla. All in all this was a terrific and fun-filled first full day in Sevilla (how's that for alliteration?). And we met our goal of staying up until the local bed time for the second night in a row to combat our jet lag and get our bodies more accustomed to the local clock. If you happen to be in Sevilla on a Sunday during the soccer season, you could easily use this as your agenda for the the the day. This was just day one of our seven day adventure. Be sure to look for our future chronicles of our trip to Sevilla, Spain! Are you planning a trip to Sevilla? Let us know what info you found helpful and what you're looking forward to in Sevilla.

Parador de Santiago de Compostela Paradores Nacionales de España: Where History Meets Hospitality In This Article: What Are the Paradores Nacionales de España? A Century of Preserving Heritage and Promoting Tourism Staying in Castles, Monasteries, and Architectural Icons Spotlight: Parador de Vielha in the Arán Valley Spotlight: Parador de Santillana Gil Blas in Cantabria Spotlight: Parador de Granada Spotlight: Toledo’s Parador Experience Spotlight: Parador de Santiago de Compostela Other Must-Visit Paradors Across Spain Why Paradores Offer More Than Just a Place to Sleep What Are the Paradores Nacionales de España? Lodging in Spain's Paradores Paradores Nacionales de España is a public company that has been serving Spanish tourism since 1928 . Over nearly a century, it has successfully promoted the best image of Spain, protected its historical and cultural heritage, and supported local economies while caring for the environment. Today, there are almost 100 Paradors  scattered across the country, from the rugged northern coast to the sun-drenched south, from the Atlantic shores to the Mediterranean, and deep into Spain’s mountainous interiors. With so many to choose from, depending on your destination, lodging in Spain's Paradores might be the perfect option for you. A Century of Preserving Heritage and Promoting Tourism The Paradores network was created with a dual mission: Preserve and repurpose historic buildings , castles, monasteries, palaces, and manor houses, by transforming them into luxury hotels. Promote sustainable tourism  in areas that might otherwise be overlooked, boosting local economies and protecting cultural and natural treasures. This means that when you stay in one of the historic Paradors, you’re not just booking a room, you’re stepping into a living piece of Spanish history. Staying in Castles, Monasteries, and Architectural Icons From castles where you can feel like royalty  to cloisters that invite deep relaxation , and from avant-garde retreats in breathtaking natural settings  to beachfront escapes , there’s a Parador for virtually every traveler. Whether you prefer the mountains or the coast , the interior or the seaside , each Parador offers a unique combination of location, architecture, and gastronomy. Spotlight: Parador de Vielha - Gateway to the Arán Valley I first experienced the magic of Paradores at the Parador de Vielha  during a school excursion in the late 1980s. Nestled in the Val d’Arán  in the Catalan Pyrenees, this Parador is the perfect base for enjoying nature and the nearby ski slopes of Baqueira-Beret . Highlights include: A spa  with panoramic mountain views Outdoor pool, solarium terrace, jacuzzi, and sauna Elegant, light-filled interiors with large windows framing the Pyrenees A circular dining room surrounded by gardens Rooms with terraces overlooking the valley Vielha itself blends the serene air of the mountains with the lively atmosphere of a tourist hub. Its historic center features charming houses, artisan shops, and local delicacies. Cultural highlights include the Tor deth Generau Martrinhon , a 17th-century palace housing an ethnological museum, and the Church of Sant Miguel , home to a 12th-century Romanesque Christ and the famous “cabinet of six keys” where valley documents were once stored. Parador de Vielha Spotlight: Parador de Santillana Gil Blas - Elegance in Cantabria I’ve also stayed, more than once, at the Parador de Santillana Gil Blas , located in the heart of Santillana del Mar , a village declared a National Monument. Housed in a 17th-century Baroque manor , the former Casa Barreda-Bracho, the Parador features: A warm, elegant interior with wooden floors and some rooms boasting fireplaces Montañés-style décor that transports guests to another era An exclusive outdoor terrace, unique within the Paradores network Award-winning hospitality, recognized with a “Solete” by the Guía Repsol (Spain's version of the Michelin Guide) - I can attest! I've had the pleasure of dining here several times, once celebrating my daughter's fifth birthday. What a memorable day! Santillana del Mar is famously walkable and car-free, offering a historic center filled with stone buildings, artisan shops, and proximity to the Altamira Caves (or their exact replica at the Altamira Museum). Just across the plaza from the Parador de Santillana Gil Blas stands the Colegiata de Santa Juliana , a magnificent Romanesque church and former monastery that anchors the town’s medieval charm. Its carved cloisters and centuries-old stone façade are a quiet reminder of Santillana’s spiritual and architectural legacy. Nearby, you can explore coastal towns like Comillas and San Vicente de la Barquera , or natural wonders like the Cueva del Soplao . Parador de Santillana del Mar Gil Blas Spotlight: Parador de Granada - History Inside the Alhambra While I've never stayed at the Parador de Granada , I've read that it's truly a rare gem located within the Alhambra complex , one of Spain’s most iconic monuments. Housed in a 15th-century convent built atop the ruins of a Nasrid palace, the Parador features: Andalusian-style interiors with carved wood ceilings, stone archways, and tiled mosaics Rooms with views of the Generalife gardens and the Sierra Nevada beyond A tranquil courtyard, perfect for quiet reflection or evening drinks Exceptional location - mere steps from the most treasured attractions of Granada The Parador de Granada inhabits the Nasrid Palace of the Infantes ( Palacio Nazarí de los Infantes) , transformed by the Catholic Monarchs into the first Christian convent within the newly conquered Alhambra, and originally designated as their burial site. Today, guests can walk through the original patio, now a cloister, and visit the preserved sala árabe and the qubba , a stunning domed chamber overlooking the Generalife gardens . Beneath its intricate mocárabe ceiling lie the provisional tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, offering a rare glimpse into Spain’s royal and architectural legacy. The Parador also houses the remains of the palace’s Arab baths , uncovered in 1949, adding yet another layer of historical depth to the experience. Staying here isn’t just about location, it’s about inhabiting a space where centuries converge. Granada offers a rich blend of Moorish, Christian, and modern Spanish culture . From the winding streets of the Albaicín to flamenco performances in Sacromonte caves , the city pulses with textured history. Nearby, you can explore the Cathedral , the Royal Chapel , or take a day trip to the Alpujarras villages . And at sunset, the view from Mirador de San Nicolás , looking back at the Alhambra, is an experience sought by many. Read more about Granada in our previous article. Parador de Granada Spotlight: Toledo’s Parador Experience Not all Parador experiences require an overnight stay. In Toledo , I’ve enjoyed long, leisurely lunches at the Parador’s restaurant, followed by a stroll onto its terrace for sweeping views of the city . The combination of Castilian cuisine  and panoramic vistas makes it a perfect stop for day-trippers or those seeking a memorable meal in an historic setting. But if you want to stay the night, this would be a wonderful choice . Inspired by Mudéjar architecture, the building offers the most breathtaking panoramic views of the "City of Three Cultures," from its terrace, lounges, and guest rooms. Inside, spacious and luxurious interiors blend seamlessly with warm wooden beams, staircases, and floors, creating an inviting atmosphere. After a day of exploring Toledo’s historic streets, unwind with a peaceful swim in the pool or savor traditional Manchegan cuisine on the terrace, all while admiring the city’s stunning skyline. The Parador’s charm lies not only in its comfort and elegance, but in its ability to immerse guests in the beauty and spirit of Toledo from sunrise to sunset. In Toledo, you can explore the imposing Alcázar , a witness to more recent history; the stunning Gothic cathedral at the heart of the old town; synagogues and mosques; seemingly countless monuments and museums ; and stroll through its parks and gardens. And you'll want to shop for locally crafted damasquinado trinkets , Toledo blades , and beautiful locally produced ceramics like those from nearby Talavera de la Reina . A day in Toledo doesn’t end at sunset, the nighttime illumination of its historic buildings is part of its tourist appeal and provides special charm to the capital of La Mancha. Read more about Toledo in our previous article about top day trips from Madrid. View of Toledo, Spain from the Parador de Toledo Spotlight: Parador de Santiago de Compostela - A Pilgrim’s Rest in Spain’s Oldest Hotel Considered the oldest hotel in Spain, the Parador de Santiago de Compostela sits on the Plaza del Obradoiro, right beside the world-renowned cathedral . Originally founded by the Catholic Monarchs as the Royal Hospital for pilgrims , it’s now known as the Hostal dos Reis Católicos. Key features include: A historic Plateresque façade that anchors the building’s architectural grandeur Four peaceful cloisters and elegant corridors that reflect centuries of hospitality Spectacular guest rooms blending tradition with comfort The largest collection of Madrid School paintings in the Paradores network Over 140 works by important artists such as Martínez Novillo, Álvaro Delgado, and Menchu Gal, all on display within the Parador This isn’t just a place to stay, it’s a living museum and a spiritual waypoint for travelers tracing the Camino’s legacy. Other Must-Visit Paradors Across Spain While Vielha, Santillana del Mar, Granada, Toledo and Santiago de Compostela hold personal significance, the Paradores network spans nearly every corner of Spain. Notable locations include: Ávila  - within the medieval city walls Segovia  - near the Roman aqueduct Salamanca  - in the heart of the university city (read more about Salamanca here .) Cáceres  - in a UNESCO-listed old town (read more about Cáceres here .) Chinchón  - overlooking the famous Plaza Mayor Córdoba  - near the Mezquita-Catedral (read more about Córdoba here .) Each offers its own blend of history, architecture, and regional cuisine. Read more about Ávila, and Segovia in our previously published guide to Madrid day trips . Why Paradores Offer More Than Just a Place to Sleep Staying at one of the historic Paradores is about immersive travel : You’re sleeping in a building that has witnessed centuries of history. You’re dining on gourmet regional cuisine  crafted from local ingredients. You’re contributing to the preservation of Spain’s cultural and natural heritage. From the Pyrenean peaks  to the Andalusian plains , Paradores offer a way to experience Spain that’s as much about the journey as the destination. What about you, have you ever stayed in a Parador, or is there one on your travel wish list? Which historic setting would you choose for your next Spanish getaway?

Iconic Lion Fountain in the Patio de los Leones of the Alhambra One Day in Granada: Alhambra, and City Highlights Granada offers visitors a mix of historic architecture, lively plazas, and a food culture that rewards curiosity. If you only have one day to explore the city, you can still experience some of its most memorable places, including the Alhambra, the Cathedral district, and the free tapas tradition that makes dining here so enjoyable. Do We Need More than One Day in Granada? We frequently see people ask if one day is enough for ___ (insert destination city of choice). Most of the time our response will be: "that depends." If you're looking for mostly highlights including visits to one or two sites of interest, then one day is probably enough. Using Granada as an example, you could feasibly tour the Alhambra complex in the morning, grab lunch near the Cathedral district, and take a short walk through the Albaicín before sunset. But that itinerary leaves out some of the city’s most atmospheric corners. With more time, you could explore the Sacromonte, admire street art and tucked-away plazas in Realejo, and visit the Monasterio de San Jerónimo for a quieter, contemplative experience. Granada isn’t just about checking off monuments, it’s about letting the city unfold around you. In This Article - Visiting the Alhambra and Generalife   - Exploring the Cathedral District   - Tapas Culture in Granada   - Where We Stayed: Aurea Catedral   - The Albacín - Realejo - Granada as a University City - Getting Around the City  - Mountains and Beaches: A Two-in-One Vacation - Final Thoughts and Tips    Visiting the Alhambra and Generalife The Alhambra is Granada’s most famous attraction. It is a large hilltop complex that includes several distinct areas: the Nasrid Palaces, the Generalife gardens, the Alcazaba fortress, and the Palace of Carlos V. We had reserved a small group guided tour, which helped us understand the history and layout of the site. However, finding the entrance on foot was difficult. Google Maps did not route us correctly, and signage was limited. We recommend taking a taxi to the entrance and walking back into town afterward. The return walk is downhill and passes souvenir shops and scenic viewpoints. Here are the main areas of the Alhambra: Nasrid Palaces This is the heart of the Alhambra. The palaces were built by the Muslim rulers of Granada and feature intricate stucco work, Arabic calligraphy, and peaceful courtyards. The Court of the Lions is especially striking, with its central fountain surrounded by slender columns. The Hall of the Ambassadors showcases a richly decorated wooden ceiling and geometric wall patterns. Every room opens to another with a different view, creating a sense of movement and transition. Washington Irving, who lived in the Alhambra while writing Tales of the Alhambra , famously wrote: “The Alhambra is an architectural treasure that seems to have been created by the gods themselves.” And in a quote often attributed to Francisco A. de Icaza and popularized by Irving: “Give him alms, woman, for there is nothing in life like the pain of being blind in Granada.” This sentiment resonates deeply when standing beneath the muqarnas vaults and gazing at the interplay of light and shadow. In fact, Antoni Gaudí, whose own work in Barcelona is known for its organic forms and symbolic detail, inspired in important ways by the Alhambra. You can see echoes of its geometry and ornamentation in places like the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Here we share a photo, taken in the Nasrid Palaces, showing a vault that feels like a direct ancestor to Gaudí’s nature-inspired ceilings in the second photo of the Sagrada Familia interior. Generalife Gardens Fountains in the Generalife Gardens Located just outside the main palace area, the Generalife was the summer retreat for the Nasrid rulers. The gardens are filled with fountains, hedges, flower beds, and shaded walkways. The layout is designed to offer both privacy and views. From the upper terraces, you can see the Alhambra complex and the city below. Alcazaba Fortress This is the oldest part of the Alhambra. It was built for military defense and offers panoramic views from its towers. The layout is simple compared to the palaces, but the vantage points are worth the climb. You can see the rooftops of Granada and the Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance. Palace of Carlos V Palace of Carlos V This Renaissance-style building was added after the Christian conquest of Granada. It has a circular courtyard surrounded by two levels of columns. The architecture contrasts sharply with the Islamic design of the Nasrid Palaces. Inside, you’ll find a museum and occasional exhibitions. The structure itself is massive and imposing, with a sense of symmetry and order that reflects its era. Exploring the Cathedral District We stayed at Aurea Catedral , which is located right next to the Granada Cathedral. The hotel was clean, well-appointed, and staffed by friendly and attentive people. On the interior walls you'll find painted quotes of Federico Garcia Lorca, one of the most important literary figures of Granada. This left an impression, causing us to remember our years studying 20th Century Spanish literature. The hotel also has a parking garage, although the spaces are very tight. We recommend dropping off your luggage before parking. And, if you have a large vehicle or you're not good in tight parking situations, you might need or want to find street parking or another nearby lot. We were glad we purchased full insurance on our rental car because we damaged the car while backing out of our parking space. One of the Free Tapas We Enjoyed at Los Manueles in Granada The area around the Cathedral is full of bars, cafés, restaurants, and shops. We walked from the hotel to Los Manueles in Plaza de la Romanilla for lunch. The food was excellent, and the service was quick. We ordered what we thought was a reasonable amount of food, but each round of drinks came with generous free tapas. By the end of the meal, we were overfed. Other places we visited in the evening were Siloé Bar and Grill on Calle Carcel right by our hotel and Parole in Plaza de la Romanilla, a very popular restaurant and bar specializing in Italian cuisine. In the morning we were looking for a good place for coffee. Just around the corner we found La Finca Coffee on Calle Colegio Catalino where we got our lattes and some pastries. It was just what we needed to get us going! Near the Cathedral you’ll also find: - San Agustín Market (had just closed for the day after we checked into our hotel)  - Plaza Bib-Rambla , where we enjoyed breakfast at El Laurél   - Plaza de la Romanilla , a lively spot with several dining options   Tapas Culture in Granada As we mentioned earlier, Granada is known for its tradition of serving free tapas with drinks. This is not just a small snack. Many places offer larger portions, and the variety can be surprising. You might receive grilled meats, seafood, or local specialties depending on where you go. Sidebar: in Spain, our general approach is to follow their meal customs. You can read about this in one of our most popular previous articles here . What we mean to say is that we partake in this meal scheme: El Desayuno (Breakfast) - The same time as many cultures, maybe 7:00 or 8:00 AM El Aperitivo - A snack about half way between breakfast and lunch, say 11:00 AM La Comida (sometimes called El Almuerzo) - Lunch, at about 2:00 or 2:30 PM La Merienda - An afternoon snack, truly you could do tapas any time. Various times. La Cena - Supper or dinner, a light meal at the end of the day, maybe 10:00 PM So, we'll have a light breakfast, a late morning snack, a longer, sit down lunch at around 2PM, a mid afternoon snack, and a dinner of tapas, usually going from place to place. Popular neighborhoods for tapas include: - The Cathedral District  - Realejo The Albacín We didn’t have time to explore the Albacín, but it’s widely praised for its sweeping views of the Alhambra and its labyrinthine streets steeped in Moorish history. This ancient hillside quarter, once the heart of the Muslim city, is known for its whitewashed houses, hidden courtyards, and a palpable sense of timelessness. We knew all this but just didn't have the time to visit. From our reading over recent years, we find that many travelers recommend wandering its narrow alleys at golden hour, when the light softens and the city seems to glow. In the southern part of the Albacín you'll find Sacromonte. Looking at Google Maps, you'll see places to visit like a museum of caves (Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte) and an abby (Abadía del Sacromonte). And, this is where you'll find places to see Flamenco shows. We asked Microsoft CoPilot for some good sources of info on the Albacín so that we could document it for you and save it for our next visit to Granada. If you're interested, follow this link: https://www.lovegranada.com/places/albaicin/ . Realejo On a future visit, we’re also interested in exploring Realejo , not just for its tapas but for its reputation as a hub for street art. We've been reading about this area and here's what we remember from the random searches we've done, we hope you find this as alluring as we do. Once the city’s Jewish quarter, Realejo now blends centuries-old architecture with of modern creativity. In the neighborhood’s narrow streets you'll find vivid murals and graffiti. You'll probably find good tapas bars in this area too. Here are some links for more info on Realejo: https://www.lovegranada.com/places/realejo/ https://www.spainfoodsherpas.com/tapas-tour-through-granadas-traditional-neighborhood-realejo/ https://spanishsabores.com/street-art-in-granada/ Granada as a University City Granada is home to one of Spain’s most prestigious universities, and its student population gives the city a youthful, energetic vibe. The university is in the area north of the cathedral and south of the train station. So, you'll find student activity concentrated in these areas but also in Albacín and Realejo. And students can be found doing local cultural activities like visiting the Alhambra or visiting the Monasterio de San Jerónimo, a 16th-century Renaissance monastery which happens to be located in the University area. Even if you’re not out until dawn, the city’s plazas and terraces buzz with conversation and laughter well into the evening. It’s a place where locals and visitors mingle easily, and where the student spirit adds a bit of spontaneity to the city’s historic charm. Mountains and Beaches: A Two-in-One Vacation One of Granada’s most unique features is its proximity to both the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Costa Granadiana beaches. The Sierra Nevada is home to Europe’s southernmost ski resort, where you can enjoy snow sports from November to April. Just an hour’s drive away, the beaches of Salobreña and Almuñécar offer sun, seafood, and Mediterranean views. We’ve heard it’s possible to ski in the morning and swim in the sea by afternoon. Though we haven’t tried it ourselves, it’s high on our travel wish list. The idea of carving fresh snow and then relaxing on a sun-kissed beach with a chilled beverage sounds like the perfect Andalusian day. Final Thoughts and Tips We only had one day in Granada, but we were able to: - Visit the Alhambra and Generalife  - Explore the Cathedral  - Enjoy the tapas culture  - Experience the nightlife in the city center Next time, we’d like to spend time wandering the Albacín and spend more time in Realejo to explore its street art and creative energy. We’ll also be sure to visit the Monasterio de San Jerónimo. And if the timing’s right, we’d love to catch a Granada CF match at Estadio Nuevo de Los Cármenes. Be sure to subscribe to our mailing list for alerts. We have a future article planned that will be dedicated to travel logistics and tips on traveling between Granada and other travel destinations in Spain. Have you ever visited Granada or experienced a similar tapas tradition elsewhere? Share your favorite moments in the comments or tag someone who needs to plan a trip.

Sketch of a Casteller Event in the Festa de Gràcia Who Doesn't Like a Party? Every August, the streets of Gràcia burst into color, music, and community spirit during one of Barcelona’s most beloved traditions: the Festa Major de Gràcia. What began as a religious celebration in 1817 has evolved into a week-long explosion of creativity, culture, and neighborhood pride. Originally it was celebrated on March 25th. But since it was typically cold at that time of year and also fell within Lent, after a few decades the festival shifted to August when the entire neighborhood joined into the celebration. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, this brief guide will help you navigate the highlights, history, and hidden gems of the festival. We took the time to verify our work at this website on 13 August 2025. The website lacks a functional calendar of events (functional being the key word): https://festamajordegracia.cat/la-festa-major-de-gracia/historia-de-la-festa/ There is a useful map there to help you find the party: https://festamajordegracia.cat/la-festa-major-de-gracia/mapa/ We found more details at unusual places and brought them to you here. If you go and you need to store your luggage, this is a bonus for you: https://radicalstorage.com/travel/festa-major-de-gracia-2025/ Important: bring only small, clear, handheld bags... In This Article Origins and Evolution of the Festa Major What to Expect: Key Events and Traditions Street Decorations and Themed Displays Castellers, Giants, and Parades Final Night: Fire Runs and Farewells How to Get There Tips for Travelers: When to Go and What to See Origins and Evolution The Festa Major de Gràcia began as a religious observance of the Assumption of Mary. Over two centuries, it transformed into a secular celebration of local identity, creativity, and civic pride. From leafy street decorations to elaborate themed displays, the festival reflects the neighborhood’s artisan roots and evolving social values. What to Expect The festival officially kicks off on August 14 with a parade and opening speech. From August 15th through the 21st, expect daily concerts, puppet shows, communal meals, and cultural performances. Each street unveils its own theme, ranging from enchanted forests to retro video games, crafted from recycled materials. Street Decorations Gràcia’s decorated streets are the festival’s crown jewel. Wander through whimsical worlds built by neighbors over months of planning. Don’t miss the contest results on August 19th, when the best-decorated streets and balconies are announced. Castellers and Giants Casteller events are central to the festival. The main day (August 17th this year) features top-tier troupes competing in Plaça de la Vila, ending with the Pilar al Balcó —a child climbs into the district building from a human tower. The day before or after includes friendly performances and the Pilar Caminat  parade. Gràcia’s small giants, Torradet and Gresca, created in 1999, stroll under the decorated streets. On Saturday, the large giants Pau and Llibertat host a visiting troupe, with a joint parade and exhibition at the Oratory of Sant Felip Neri. Correfoc Fire and Farewell The final night features the Correfoc, a fiery procession of devils and dragons dancing through sparks and smoke. It’s loud, exhilarating, and unforgettable. Earlier that day, the “Toca Dormir” parade bids farewell with music and joy. How to Get to There Gràcia is easily accessible by Barcelona’s metro system , with Fontana (L3) , Joanic (L4) , and Diagonal (L3/L5)  stations all within walking distance of the festival zone. If you're staying near the city center, a 20–30 minute walk  up Passeig de Gràcia offers a scenic route straight into the heart of the action. General traffic will be restricted. So, getting a taxi might be challenging. Calendar of Events... We wanted to provide you with a full calendar of events to help you decide when to go. But, there was no good source that we could find. So, just go! We're sure it'll be a unique and enjoyable experience for you. More Tips for Travelers Arrive early on August 15 for the full experience Explore both major streets and quieter corners Respect local customs—some events are religious in origin Wear comfortable shoes and stay hydrated Closing Thoughts The Festa Major de Gràcia is more than a party—it’s a living tapestry of tradition, creativity, and community. Whether you're marveling at a recycled jungle or dancing under a canopy of lights, you’ll feel the heartbeat of Barcelona in every corner of Gràcia. Have you experienced a similar neighborhood festival elsewhere? Drop a comment below and share your favorite moments, or share with a friend who needs to see this!

Stunning Entrance Gate at Pena Palace In This Article Getting to Sintra from Lisbon    How we started our morning with pastries and made our way to Sintra using the metro and train. Wandering through Quinta da Regaleira    Exploring mossy paths, mysterious wells, and hidden symbols at one of Sintra’s most fascinating estates. Lunch in the Village    A scenic walk into town, a tuna sandwich worth waiting for, and a cold beer to round it out. Inside the Sintra National Palace    Painted ceilings, tiled rooms, and quiet corners in a palace that surprised us with its charm. Pena Palace: Crowds, Color, and a Standout Chapel    Getting there took longer than expected, but the colors, views, and that chapel made it worth it. What We Skipped (and Why It Was Okay)     We missed the Moorish Castle, but ended up with a much-needed break and a pretty great view instead. Back in Lisbon for the Evening    A simple dinner, a stroll down Avenida da Liberdade, and a nightcap to end the day. A Bit of History in the Praça dos Restauradores    What we learned about the monument in the middle of the square — and the war it commemorates. Starting our Day Bright and Early We started our day early in Lisbon, seated around 7:30 a.m. at Padaria do Bairro  (Neighborhood Bakery) with a warm galão  (similar to a cappuccino) and a flaky palmier  (elephant ear pastry) to fuel the adventure ahead. With caffeine and sugar in our veins, we walked to the São Sebastião  metro station and hopped on the Linha Azul (Blue Line) AKA the Linha da Gaviota (Seagull Line) , transferring easily at Reboleira  to catch the Comboios de Portugal (CP) train to Sintra. For our article about the Lisbon Metro, click here . Taking the Train to Sintra The signage was excellent in the station and on the trains. At Reboleira we followed the directions to platform 2 for Sintra (could be different, so look at the marquis and head to the Sintra platorm). Traveling with our Lisboa Card  made everything seamless. Within about an hour, we were stepping off the train and onto the platform in Sintra. For us it was a total of 10 stops and Sintra is the end of the line. So, there's not a tremendous need to be vigilant IF you're traveling from the Reboleira station. However, depending on where you're coming from in the city, you may have to switch lines at some point during the journey. There are different types of schematic above the interior side of the train doors. They're very helpful for navigation. Arrival Confusion, Quinta da Regaleira, and a Winding Descent Our plan was to kick things off at Quinta da Regaleira , and we’d bought timed tickets for 10:00 a.m. What we hadn’t planned was initially boarding the wrong bus, Bus 434 , from the train station. We purchased day passes before realizing we needed a different route, not covered by that ticket. Fortunately, we figured this out within minutes and were able to hop off and board the correct one, Carris Metropolitana Bus 1253 , which was still waiting nearby on Av. Francisco Almeida. The quick ride took about nine minutes and dropped us near the entrance, followed by a short uphill walk. No time lost, and the day pass came in handy later when we used the 434 multiple times throughout the day. La Quinta da Regaleira We arrived at 9:20, walked about five minutes up the hill staying to the left, and found ourselves at the front of the line for timed ticket holders. If you’re visiting, note that the line splits with ticket holders on the left and those with no tickets on the right. The crowd behind us continued to grow until the gates opened at 10:00. By then the line snaked all the way down the hill behind us. Apparently our early arrival was a solid move. Inside, the grounds of the Quinta  felt like something between a fortified forest and a romanticized dreamscape. There are a few main paths winding through the property, but the real fun is getting a bit lost, veering onto unpaved paths that lead you to fountains, towers, and magical little hideaways. At times we felt slightly lost. But we found our way back to the main path where there are directional signs to help you find the next point of interest and then markers by them when you arrive. There were people on guided tours and we got to eavesdrop in a few key locations. Among the highlights: Fonte dos Guardiães, Fonte da Regaleira , Lago da Cascata , and Torre da Regaleira  with its tight spiral staircase and commanding views. But the showstopper was the Poço Iniciático (Initiation Well) . As we descended the dripping, narrow stone steps into the dark, damp spiral, we could feel the mysticism layered into every inch of the structure. The iconic photo of the Poço Iniciático is taken from above, peering down into the well. We got a good o, but decided to share the one we took looking from the bottom of the well up to the top. We think it highlights more of the architectural features. Among the other photo is the illuminated cave that runs around the base of the well, eventually leading you back out to the gardens. The sculpted arch focal point of the Fonte dos Guardiāes echos the archways in the main courtyard of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. We noticed this a few days later when we visited the Monastery. Exhibit space at the Quinta da Regaleira During our tour of La Quinta da Regaleira, we found our way into an exhibit explaining the vision of Augusto Carvalho Monteiro , the eccentric millionaire behind the estate. It was a small exhibit and there was an engaging video explaining the history of the place and its creator. It really was a fascinating relation of his life and it gave us a much deeper appreciation for the Quinta. If you can spare it, we recommend taking the time to view the video and check out the other elements of the exhibit. Later we found our way downhill to the palace and chapel, two other remarkable structures. Remarkable is truly an understatement. Both the chapel  (dedicated to Saint Anthony ) and the palace stunned us with the incredibly ornate Neo Manueline-style sculpted exteriors . We especially admired the carved stonework at the entrance to the palace, with its scrolls of nautical ropes. We couldn’t help wondering whether the period furnishings in the palace were original. As we exited via a promenade lined with classical statues, Greek gods, perhaps?, we agreed: the experience was unforgettable. Lunch in the Village From Quinta da Regaleira, we opted for the scenic walk into Sintra’s historic village center. It was manageable, mostly downhill and shaded. At one junction, others took a path down to the village, but we trusted Google Maps, which led us slightly uphill and then down a quiet staircase that landed us right next to Tascantiga , our lunch spot. Prego de Atum (Tuna Sandwich) at Tascantiga We arrived about 15 minutes before its opening at noon and were glad we did. A small line began to form behind us as we waited for the doors to open. We scored a shaded terrace table and ordered the Prego de Atum com Sweet Chili em Bolo do Caco Negro , a sesame-crusted seared tuna sandwich on charcoal bread with a sweet chili sauce. While it usually comes with batatas palito (french fries) , we swapped those for batatas a murro ("punched potatoes," boiled, then slightly smashed and roasted) , and the meal was excellent. The sandwich had a perfectly done, ample tuna steak with a delicious slathering of sweet chili sauce. The potatoes were tender through and through. Add a cold beer, a bottle of water, and a post-lunch galão , and you’ve got one seriously memorable meal, all for just €26. Afterward, we did a bit of shopping. One small store was floor-to-ceiling sardine tins, maybe all fish, maybe just sardines, we we don't remember to be honest, but it was a spectacle. Others offered T-shirts, sweatshirts, trinkets like the Galo de Barcelos (Rooster of Barcelos) , licor de ginja  (cherry liquor) with the little chocolate cups, and other Portuguese souvenirs. We remembered the roosters from the first time we visited Portugal. They symbolize luck and good fortune. Sintra National Palace: Quiet Grandeur and Architectural Intrigue Our afternoon continued with a visit to the Palácio Nacional de Sintra , located right in the heart of the village. Despite its prominence, there were no lines and very few visitors when we arrived, which made for a relaxed and unhurried visit. We began the tour by ascending a 16th-century spiral staircase, considered one of the first monumental staircases built in Portugal. As we moved through the rooms, we read placards along the way and took in the quiet elegance of the space. Sala dos Archeiros Highlights included the Sala Manuelina , with its tiled walls, wooden ceiling, and grand chandelier, and the Galeria de Cor , a covered outdoor walkway that seemed like a perfect spot for leisure in warmer months. The Sala dos Archeiros , or Palace Guard Room, caught our eye with its tiled walls and painted ceiling featuring a swan motif. One of the more memorable rooms was the Sala das Pegas  (Magpie Room), where the ceiling was painted with an array of magpies. The Pátio de Diana , a courtyard tucked within the palace, and the Sala das Galés , featuring ships painted on the ceiling, added to the variety and charm of the interiors. Heraldic splendor overhead — the coffered ceiling of the Sala de Brasões The Sala dos Brasões  stood out for its scale and ornate ceiling. While we didn’t count them, it was clear there were many coats of arms represented, along with intricate tile work and decorative flourishes that made the room feel stately but not overwhelming. We continued into the Antecâmara da Casa do Conselho , also referred to as the Sala dos Árabes. This room once served as a waiting area for those meeting with judges or royal counselors. The azulejos  and fountain dated back to the reign of King Manuel I, although in the 19th century it was believed, incorrectly, to have originated during the Muslim period in Portugal. Gruta dos Banhos Our visit ended in the kitchen , with its iconic twin chimneys visible from across the village, and the Gruta dos Banhos , a whimsical space that rounded out the tour. It was a rich and worthwhile experience, with enough detail and variation to hold our attention without feeling overwhelming. We were genuinely impressed by the vivid tile work, ornate ceilings, and thoughtful layout. It was well worth a stop, especially given how different the palace felt from what came next. The Pena Palace Detour and Why We Missed the Moorish Castle Catching the Bus 434  from the village to Palácio da Pena  turned into a bit of a time sink. The route required us to first go to the train station, then transfer onto another waiting bus, both routes operate under the same number. Traffic was intense. The trip ended up taking 1 hour and 15 minutes , far longer than we anticipated (based on the normal bus schedule). Onboard, we met a friendly Australian couple who had attempted to drive to the palace, unaware that cars weren’t allowed up. Unlike us, they hadn’t pre-purchased tickets and were hoping to buy at the door, braving the longer, slower-moving line. Pena Palace Interior Patio Though we arrived nearly 45 minutes past our 15:00 timed entry , the staff graciously let us in with the 16:00 group. From the entrance gates to the palace, it’s a ten-minute walk  uphill on shaded cobblestones. For those with mobility concerns, there’s a shuttle available from the main entrance. We opted to walk, it wasn’t bad, and the surroundings were lovely. Entering the palace, the decorative gate  was truly one of a kind, coats of arms, carved geometric shapes, a yellow battlement tower, just stunning. Inside, we were taken in by the two-story central patio , with its giant shell-shaped fountain, tiled floors and walls, and four massive columns ending in inverted cones topped with crosses. Stag Room The Stag Room (Sala do Veados) , circular and adorned with stag antlers radiating from a palm tree-like pillar, was mesmerizing. Despite the architectural splendor, the interior felt overcrowded. Visitors were funneled through in a constant stream, making it tough to linger and absorb details the way we could at the Sintra National Palace. We thought the traffic might have been the culprit, potentially causing many people to arrive later than their scheduled entrance time. Outside, beyond the rear terraces, we reached the chapel  nestled beneath a looming clock tower. It was a highlight of the visit. The altar , dating to the early 1500s and originally built for the Monastery of Our Lady of Pena, was a masterpiece in carved alabaster and limestone, rich in Renaissance detail and Gothic elegance. Above it, a remarkable stained-glass window  commissioned by King Ferdinand II  in 1840 stole our attention. The lower panels depict King Manuel I  and Vasco da Gama  near the Tower of Belém, nodding to Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Above them, images of Our Lady  and Saint George  offer spiritual protection. The arch contains powerful royal symbols: an armillary sphere , the Cross of the Order of Christ , and the royal coats of arms of Saxony and Portugal . It was a meaningful convergence of faith, empire, and the king’s romantic vision. We exited through an exterior courtyard and took in the sculptural spires, vibrant tilework, and textured façades in bold yellows, reds, and blues. For all the crowding inside, the palace exterior delivered visual magic. With little time left before the Castelo dos Mouros  closed for the day, we passed its entrance on a bus that didn’t stop. A bit frustrating in the moment, but also a blessing. Our day had already been full, and we were ready for a change of pace. Beer with a View and a Lisbon Evening Back in the village, we did a bit more shopping and paused for a large caneca (mug) of cold cerveja (beer) , and we noticed the view of the Moorish Castle  silhouetted on the hilltop. We could’ve walked to the station but opted for the short bus ride instead, catching our train back to Lisbon. Arriving at São Sebastião , we walked past the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian  and wandered into its tranquil gardens. Though the museum was closed, the grounds were alive, an event with live music near the museum entrance, quiet relaxation on another. Lisbon always has a pocket of surprise tucked between its pages. Dinner in Lisbon Dinner was at Puro Lisboa , a Portuguese bistro recommended by our food tour guide. We shared ovos rotos , one of our favorite comfort dishes, and a few croquettes on the side. Simple, soulful, and just the kind of meal we needed after a packed day. The cozy bistro atmosphere matched the food: relaxed, confident, and inviting. From there, we made our way to Avenida da Liberdade , Lisbon’s version of the Champs-Élysées. We strolled the full length of this grand boulevard, pausing occasionally to make mental notes of dining spots that looked worth a future visit. A few that stood out: Avenida Restaurant and Bar , Sabor Lisboa , JNcQUOI Avenida , Bougain , and of course, the iconic Hard Rock Cafe , all of which drew our attention with lively terraces, modern interiors, or aromatic cues that made us wish we had a second stomach. At the base of the avenue, we ended in Praça dos Restauradores , capturing photos of the illuminated monument and grabbing a shot next to the glowing LISBOA  sign. So, What's the Beautiful Praça dos Restauradores About? Monument to the Restorers We probably spent more time admiring the obelisk in the center of the square than most people do. We were curious about all of the dates and words inscribed on it. So, we made a note and on June 26, 2024 we asked MS Copilot to tell us all about it. Here's the scoop according to our AI companion! The Monument to the Restorers  ( Monumento aos Restauradores ) in Lisbon’s Praça dos Restauradores  commemorates Portugal’s struggle to regain independence from Spain during the Portuguese Restoration War  (1640–1668). The obelisk, inaugurated in 1886, is inscribed with key dates from that conflict—each marking a pivotal battle or turning point. Here are the dates inscribed on the monument  and their historical significance: 1 December 1640  – The start of the Restoration War, when Portuguese nobles led a successful coup in Lisbon, ending 60 years of Spanish rule and restoring the Portuguese crown under King João IV. 26 May 1644  – The Battle of Montijo , fought in Spain near Badajoz. Though tactically inconclusive, it was a morale-boosting moment for Portugal, showing it could stand up to Spanish forces. 8 June 1663  – The Battle of Ameixial , where Portuguese forces, aided by English allies, defeated the Spanish and recaptured Évora. It was a major strategic victory. 17 June 1665  – The Battle of Montes Claros , one of the final and most decisive Portuguese victories. It effectively ended Spain’s hopes of reclaiming Portugal. 13 February 1668  – The signing of the Treaty of Lisbon , in which Spain formally recognized Portugal’s independence, ending the war. These dates are engraved on the sides of the obelisk, accompanied by the names of the battles and flanked by bronze allegorical figures representing Victory  and Independence . From there we headed over to Largo da Anunciada. Along the way we passed a very packed terrace restaurant called Pinoquio on the southeast corner of the praça. We made note of it as a potential lunch or dinner spot for another day. Googling it we found that their focus is seafood dishes including Arroz de Marisco (Shellfish Rice) which is similar to Paella, grilled prawns, grilled octopus, Lagosta da Costa (Coastal Lobster - think olive oil, garlic, and port wine). It's now making us hungry as we write! Sidebar: What’s a “Largo”?    We saw the word :arIn Lisbon, a largo  is a small square or open space, less formal than a praça , often found where older streets converge. Largo da Anunciada  takes its name from the 16th-century Convento de Nossa Senhora da Anunciada , which once stood here after Dominican nuns relocated from Mouraria in 1539. Though the convent was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, the name endures, underscoring Lisbon’s religious and urban history. We closed the day with a nightcap and dessert at Leitaria da Anunciada , a restaurant we’d noted the previous night. We managed to snag a terrace table just before they began to close for the evening. The streets were quieting, our steps slowing, and we made our way back to the hotel after a truly satisfying day, tired, yes, but happily so. Final Thoughts From the misty tunnels of the Initiation Well to the intricate stained glass at Pena Palace, Sintra gifted us a day that blended enchantment with logistics, beauty with crowds, and flavor with adventure. We navigated mistaken buses and long lines but never lost the sense of why we travel: to see something unexpected, to connect to a story older than our own, and to experience a place not just with our eyes, but with our feet and forks and curiosity. Sintra may be just a short ride from Lisbon, but it offers a full day's journey through wonder. We logged 26,084 steps, and still didn’t want to stop. Are you planning to visit Sintra? Tell us what you're most looking forward to!