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Cibeles dressed up for the holidays, photographed on a December evening in 2024 Getting to Know the Plaza de Cibeles I still remember the exact moment. It was the fall of 1986, I’d only been in Madrid for a short time and was about to start my year abroad. I was probably still a little jet lagged and getting accustomed to life in a Spanish household. My roommate and I had decided to go acquaint ourselves with the city a little more, and our host mother Adela made some suggestions on where to go and what to do. My roommate had read about el Paseo de la Castellana and wanted to check it out. So, Adela told us to get the Microbus 150 right across the street from our house, which had several stops along the Castellana. I don’t remember exactly where we got off the bus, but I think it may have been at the Plaza de Colón, which is where La Castellana becomes Paseo de Recoletos. It’s the same boulevard, but the name changes. We walked along Recoletos, passing El Espejo Café, and approached Cibeles, a massive roundabout at the intersection of Calle de Alcalá. The first thing I noticed as we were approaching was the Palacio de Comunicaciones (its original name), one of the most stunning buildings I’ve ever laid eyes on. Then as we neared the plaza, the beautiful fountain depicting the goddess Cibeles gradually came into focus. The fountain is a massive sculpture of the goddess riding her chariot pulled by two lions, water spraying around her, with this enormous white palace rising behind her like something out of a dream. I hadn’t even bothered to learn much about Madrid before I arrived. Suffice it to say that I was totally unprepared for the awe I experienced in those moments. Almost forty years later, that plaza still gives me goosebumps every time I come back to Madrid. If you ask me, Plaza de Cibeles is the single best introduction to this city. It’s history, art, architecture, sports, religion, and civic pride all crammed into one roundabout. Here’s why. Ready to explore the rest of Madrid like this? Click on the image and check out my Madrid 5-Day Itinerary and Guide. The Fountain: A Goddess With a Long Memory The fountain itself goes back to the 1770s, part of a broader beautification project that King Carlos III commissioned for the Paseo del Prado. He wanted Madrid to look like the modern, enlightened capital he imagined it could be, and Cibeles was meant to be a centerpiece of that vision. The architect Ventura Rodríguez designed the overall fountain, sculptor Francisco Gutiérrez Arribas carved the figure of the goddess herself, and Roberto Michel sculpted the two lions, Hipómenes and Atalanta, who pull her chariot (just now learned their names while writing this). The whole thing was finished around 1782, and it’s been repositioned slightly over the years to accommodate the growing plaza and traffic patterns around it, including a notable adjustment in the 1890s. Cibeles, in Roman mythology, was the mother goddess, protector of nature and fertility. It’s a fitting figure for a fountain that’s become the emotional heart of the city, even if most people walking past today have no idea who she actually is. Since 2021, the fountain and the plaza around it have been part of the Paisaje de la Luz, the Paseo del Prado and Buen Retiro UNESCO World Heritage designation, putting Cibeles in the same protected category as the Prado Museum and Retiro Park. That’s a serious pedigree for a traffic circle. Why Everyone Celebrates Here If you’ve ever followed Spanish football on television, you’ve probably seen victory celebrations with thousands of people crammed around this fountain waving flags. That tradition has a specific history, and it’s more complicated than most people realize. For decades, both Real Madrid and Atlético Madrid fans celebrated their championships at Cibeles. That changed in 1991, when Atlético won the Copa del Rey and their fans, tired of what felt like a merengue-dominated fountain, decided to march half a kilometer further down the Paseo del Prado to the Fuente de Neptuno instead. As the story goes, Atlético supporters joked that Cibeles’ waters were too “infected” after five straight years of Real Madrid fans bathing in them. From that point on, the split stuck. Real Madrid has Cibeles, Atlético has Neptuno, and neither side crosses over. It’s not just club football either. The Spanish national team has celebrated European Championship titles and the 2026 World Cup title at Cibeles as well, since it’s become the default gathering point for the country’s biggest sporting moments, not just Madrid’s own. And in June of 2026, the plaza hosted something on an entirely different scale. Pope Leo XIV celebrated a Corpus Christi Mass right there in Plaza de Cibeles, drawing well over a million people between the plaza, the Paseo de Recoletos, and the Paseo de la Castellana. It didn’t quite break the attendance records set by Pope John Paul II’s 1982 visit to Madrid or Pope Benedict XVI’s 2011 World Youth Day gathering, but it was still an enormous moment for a plaza that’s seen just about everything a city can throw at it, championship trophies, presidential motorcades, and now a Papal Mass. The Palacio de Cibeles: From Post Office to City Hall The building behind the fountain deserves just as much attention as the fountain itself, and honestly, I think it’s one of the most beautiful early 20th century buildings anywhere in the world, inside and out. Architects Antonio Palacios and Joaquín Otamendi designed it, and construction ran from 1907 to 1919, when it opened as the Palacio de Comunicaciones, Madrid’s central post office and telegraph headquarters. Madrileños nicknamed it the “Cathedral of Communications” for its scale and its cathedral-like towers. When I was living in Madrid during my student years in the late 1980s and early 1990s, this building was still doing exactly that job. I mailed letters home from that post office and went there to retrieve care packages from home, never once imagining that decades later I’d be writing about it as Madrid’s city hall. The building’s transformation happened gradually. It was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural, a nationally protected historic monument, in 1993. In 2007, the Ayuntamiento de Madrid moved its main offices there from the old city hall in Plaza de la Villa, and the building formally became known as the Palacio de Cibeles rather than the Palacio de Comunicaciones. A few years later, in 2011, the cultural center CentroCentro opened inside, hosting rotating art and photography exhibitions along with a permanent exhibit on the building’s own century-plus of history. Along the way, the building has witnessed real history too, including the proclamation of Spain’s Second Republic in 1931, and it emerged from the Spanish Civil War largely unscathed, save for a few bullet scars still visible on the facade if you know where to look. The Mirador: Spectacular View in Madrid The view from the Mirador, June 2019, looking west along Calle de Alcalá toward the Metropolis building and the start of Gran Vía. One of my favorite things I’ve done in this building is ride the elevator up to the Mirador, the viewing platform in the central tower, about 70 meters above the plaza. It’s a 360 degree view that takes in the fountain directly below, Calle de Alcalá stretching toward Puerta del Sol, the start of Gran Vía, and on a clear day you can pick out landmarks as far as Plaza de Colón and the southern edges of the city. I went up in June of 2019 and got some great photos and video from up there, and I still think it’s one of the most underrated views in Madrid, especially compared to the crowds you’ll find at other lookout points around the city. This photo looks west toward the Calle de Alcalá. If you look closely you can pick out the iconic Metropolis building near the beginning of the Gran Vía. Tickets run just a few euros, and it’s well worth the short wait for the elevator. While you're waiting, you can wander around the main section of the interior and admire the architecture including some beautiful stained glass ceilings. The Rooftop: Drinks With a View A few floors below the Mirador, the building’s terrace has become one of Madrid’s premier rooftop destinations. As of 2023 and 2024, the space is run by Azotea Grupo, the same company behind the rooftop terrace at Círculo de Bellas Artes and Picalagartos Sky Bar over at the NH Collection on Gran Vía. They operate it as two connected spaces, Azotea Cibeles for drinks and casual bites with a spectacular view toward the fountain and up Calle de Alcalá, and Cornamusa Cibeles, a more formal rooftop restaurant one level up. Either way, it’s a beautiful spot for a sunset drink, and the view of the fountain and the Gran Vía skyline from up there is hard to beat. Cibeles de Cine: Summer Movies With a Twist Come summer, the building takes on yet another life. Since around 2015, CentroCentro has run Cibeles de Cine inside the building’s Glass Gallery, an indoor, climate controlled cinema that shows more than 70 films each season, everything from recent hits to restored classics celebrating anniversary re-releases. The 2026 edition runs from late June through early September, and unlike most of Madrid’s outdoor summer cinemas, you’re watching from inside an air conditioned architectural landmark rather than sweating it out in a plaza. It’s a clever, distinctly Madrid way to beat the August heat while still getting that summer cinema feeling. A Major Bus Hub Too For as beautiful as it is, Plaza de Cibeles also does some serious workhorse duty for the city. It’s one of the busiest bus hubs in Madrid, with a couple dozen daytime EMT lines converging on the plaza and its surrounding stops. But the detail I love most is the búho system, Madrid’s night bus network. Every one of the city’s night lines, N1 through N27 plus a couple of newer circular routes, departs from Plaza de Cibeles between midnight and 6 in the morning. The service dates back to October 1, 1974, when the city launched what it originally called the “Circuito Nocturno” to get bakers, nurses, waiters, and late night revelers home safely. Madrileños quickly nicknamed the buses búhos, owls, for the way their headlights looked in the dark, and the name stuck for over fifty years now. If you’re out late in Madrid and need to get back to your hotel or apartment after the metro closes, chances are you’ll end up standing in Plaza de Cibeles at some point waiting for your line, goddess and lions watching over you the whole time. It’s a small thing, but I’ve always liked that this plaza isn’t just a monument you look at from a distance. It’s genuinely part of the daily rhythm of the city, day and night. Now, About Those Scaffolding Tours All of which brings me to the reason I started thinking about this article in the first place. This summer, the fountain itself is undergoing a five month restoration, and for the first time ever, the Ayuntamiento is inviting the public to climb up into the scaffolding and see the goddess and her lions from just a few feet away. The program is called Abierto por Restauración, and reservations for the free guided visits opened on July 23, 2026 through the city’s official platform, abiertoporestauracion.reservaspatrimonio.es. Demand was intense from the start, with reports of over 16,000 people in the online queue within hours for roughly 2,640 available spots at Cibeles. Visits run about 50 minutes, in groups of up to 15 adults, with a specialist guide walking you through the conservation work and the fountain’s history from an angle nobody outside the restoration crew has ever gotten to see. Hard hats are required and provided, and you’ll need your ID and closed toe shoes to get in. The visits run through September 27, 2026, though the restoration itself is expected to continue for the full five months, so don’t be surprised if the fountain is still wrapped in scaffolding into the fall even after the tour program wraps up. If you can snag a ticket, I’d take it in a heartbeat. There’s something remarkable about seeing a monument you’ve loved for decades from an angle nobody else gets. But if the tickets are gone by the time you’re planning your trip, don’t let it stop you from visiting the plaza anyway. Come at night, when the building glows and the fountain, scaffolding or not, still anchors one of the most beautiful corners of this city. Widen your camera frame to take in the plaza as a whole, walk up to the Puerta de Alcalá a few minutes away, and remember that restorations like this happen maybe once every few decades. The fountain was last restored in 1980 and again in 2016. Catching her mid-transformation, then coming back years later to see her fully restored, is its own kind of Madrid tradition. Ready to explore the rest of Madrid like this? Click on the image and check out my Madrid 5-Day Itinerary and Guide. Cibeles has meant something to me since the week I arrived in this city as a wide eyed nineteen-year-old. Scaffolding, championship trophies, papal masses, or summer movie nights, she’s still standing at the center of it all, and she always will be. What about you? Did Cibeles catch you off guard the first time you saw her, or did some other Madrid plaza get you first? Drop a comment and let me know.

View of Plaza Mayor from our room at the Pestana Plaza Mayor My First Visit to the Plaza Mayor of Madrid It was the end of summer in 1986 when I first walked through one of the archways into the Plaza Mayor of Madrid. I was instantly in awe of this place. It has a stunning appearance of archways and balconied walls leading up to beautiful towers in a very Spanish style. The red color of the walls is very warm, making this massive square feel very inviting. It's not surprising that it's one of the centers of activity in the city and has been for centuries. In its early days it was a place where you might see bullfights, or even public executions. Now it is home to restaurants with outdoor terrace seating and typical gift shops. Dining or enjoying a beverage at these terraces is time well spent, in my opinion. Bar Postas, Calle de Postas, Madrid I remember going there for the first time. We walked west on Calle Mayor, the road that forms the south side of la Puerta del Sol and heads toward the Royal Palace. We took the first left onto Calle de Esparteros and then immediately right onto the pedestrian Calle de Postas, and continued into the northeast archway of the plaza via Calle de la Sal. I have followed this path countless times over the years. Every time I walk through that archway it almost takes my breath away. Along this path are restaurants, souvenir shops and the like. I am pretty sure I got my first bocadillo de calamares (calamari sandwich) at Bar Postas found on the south side of the road by the same name. You can go there today and the sandwich is the same as it was four decades ago. Click on this image to get our Madrid itinerary and travel guide, and start planning your visit to Plaza Mayor and beyond. Very Brief History of the Plaza Mayor Casa de la Panadería, Plaza Mayor de Madrid First opened in 1620, the stunning Plaza Mayor of Madrid is in the Herrerian style of architecture, which is characterized by strict geometry with square shapes and lack of adornment. This was apparently the official architecture of the Hapsburg monarchy under Felipe II. Other examples of this architecture are the Alcázar of Toledo and the El Escorial monastery; both of which are easy day trips from Madrid. The original construction was completed during the reign of Felipe III whose statue is in the center of the plaza. Casa de la Panadería The northern façade is the fresco-painted Casa de la Panadería (pictured above). Originally serving as the main bakery of the city, it dates to 1590 and the façade has always had frescos. The current frescos are from 1992 when they were restored. They are the works of Carlos Franco and depict the zodiac and mythological figures. Today it houses the Madrid Tourist Board and the Madrid Tourism Center. Casa de la Carnicería Casa de la Carnicería, Plaza Mayor of Madrid Opposite the Casa de la Panadería on the south side of the plaza is the Casa de la Carnicería (pictured here). It was about 1631 when the current structure was rebuilt to match the style of the Casa de la Panadería after the original structure had burned in a fire. This building was originally part of the meat distribution system of Madrid. It now houses the Pestana Plaza Mayor, a 90-room boutique hotel. The hotel has restaurants, and meeting spaces. Its guest rooms are of modern design and some rooms look into the plaza. As of this writing, the Michelin guest score is 18.4 on a scale of 20. King Felipe III on Horseback The statue of Felipe III, Plaza Mayor de Madrid Look closely at the bronze figure in the center of the plaza and you'll find more going on than a simple royal likeness. Felipe III sits in half armor with a wide ruff collar at his neck, the Order of the Golden Fleece hanging at his chest, a baton of command in one hand and the horse's reins in the other. The horse itself is caught mid-stride, one front leg raised, and if you look at the girth strap you'll find the signature of Pietro Tacca, who completed the work after the original sculptor, Giambologna, died before finishing it. The granite base beneath the statue is worth a look too. It's decorated with vegetal moldings, triglyphs, and laurel leaves, and on either side you'll find two allegorical plaques depicting war trophies in relief. On the front is a heraldic carving showing the combined coats of arms of the Royal House and the City of Madrid, set on a carved leather cartouche and topped with the royal crown. On the back, a plaque in bronze lettering commemorates the statue's placement here. The statue itself started out somewhere else entirely, in the gardens of the Casa de Campo, where it stood for over two hundred years before Queen Isabel II had it moved here in 1848, the same move commemorated on that rear plaque. Location of the Plaza Mayor Noting Nearby Dining Establishments of Note La Plaza Mayor de Madrid, 1857 There are nine archways leading into the plaza and outside of them lie streets full of bars and restaurants. Three of them head north back onto the Calle Mayor. If you head through the northwest archway you will find the magnificent Mercado de San Miguel. It was originally a traditional market but now is more of a food hall, with tapas bars and other dining and drinking establishments. Like the Atocha train station, this is one of Madrid's few modernist iron structures. From there, heading south along Cava de San Miguel you will find the Mesones, traditional bars, each with their own specialty, among them are Meson del Champiñon (mushroom), Meson de la Tortilla (a wonderful Spanish potato and egg omelette), and Meson de la Guitarra, to name a few. From there you can take a sharp left and go up the steps and through the archway back into the Plaza Mayor or continue south. If you choose the former, you will pass Las Cuevas de Luís Candelas, one of Madrid's most traditional restaurants, dating back to the early 1800s (4-star rating on Trip Advisor). If you decide to continue down Cava de San Miguel you will soon arrive at Restaurante Botín, another traditional restaurant (4.3-star rating in Trip Advisor). Opening in 1725, and according to the Guinness Book of World Records is the oldest restaurant in the world! Another of the southern archways goes down Calle de Toledo. Along the way you will find souvenir shops, ice cream and even a Five Guys if you are in the mood for an American hamburger and fries. You can continue south on Calle de Toledo to the La Latina neighborhood full of traditional bars and restaurants and home of the giant flea market "El Rastro" held each Sunday from 9AM to 3PM. Exiting the southeast corner you emerge onto Calle Botoneras with a few bars and on to Calle Imperial where you will find the entrance to the hotel Pestana Plaza Mayor mentioned earlier. And the three archways on the east all take you to more bars and restaurants. They are Calle de Gerona, Calle de Zaragoza, and Calle de la Sal where we entered the plaza. Honestly, no matter the seemingly millions of times I've crossed this plaza, when I'm trying to return to a certain place I get a little confused but I usually pick the right exit on the first try. If not, I'm sure to find more fabulous sites and sounds and can easily reroute having taken a new path. In short, no visit to Madrid would be complete without a visit to this beautiful plaza. The photos don't do it justice. And with all there is to see and do and taste in and around this magical place, you will visit more than once. What did you learn while reading this article that most captured your attention? Have you been to Madrid? If so, what is your favorite memory?

My Homemade Bocadillo de Calamares What is a Bocadillo? If you don't know what a bocadillo is in Spanish, it is a sandwich. They are usually on fresh rolls and can have various fillings such as serrano ham (get the ibérico de bellota, trust us), chorizo, lomo de cerdo (pork loin), morcilla (blood sausage), and the list goes on. One of our favorite places for a bocadillo in Madrid is El Brillante. It opened in 1961 and has been a favorite ever since. They have about 20 different bocadillos on their menu. Among them is their signature bocadillo de calamares (large fried rings of squid), called "El Brillante" on their menu. If you aren't great with the language you can just point to the photo near the ceiling and be sure to order it with a beer (una caña). They serve Mahou on tap, our favorite when in Madrid. Here's how to place this exact order at the bar: "ponme un bocadillo de calamares y una caña, por favor."I first walked into El Brillante back in 1986, and I've been going back every trip since. Depending on the time of day, you might find me there for a pincho de tortilla, a bocadillo de calamares, or just a café con leche with churros if it's too early in the day to think about squid. El Brillante is conveniently located directly across from the Atocha train station and an easy walk from the Prado and Reina Sofía museums (among others). And, if you are going clubbing, this might be a solid option for pregaming because they are open until 11:30PM or midnight depending on the day of the week and they are right around the corner from Kapital, one of the hottest night clubs in Madrid. Madrid Places Specializing in the Bocadillo de Calamares You may have read our blog post about the Plaza Mayor of Madrid (18 Feb 2024). In that post we mentioned Bar Postas on Calle de Postas. We neglected to mention Cevecería La Campana on Calle de Botoneras. I've been going to Bar Postas since that same first trip in 1986, and in all these years I've never ordered anything there except the calamares, usually on a bocadillo, sometimes a ración, always with a beer. As for La Campana, I've walked past it more times than I can count over the decades, close enough that I have a hard time believing I never went in. But honestly, I can't say for sure I ever ordered a sandwich there. That's Madrid for you, so many good options packed into a few blocks that some of them blur together over the years. Craving more Madrid favorites like these? Check out our 5-day Madrid itinerary guide, including day trips to Toledo and Segovia. In a Pinch You Can Make One at Home (Our Recipe) Yesterday we were compiling a long list of favorite restaurants of Madrid. While doing so, we got a craving for a bocadillo de calamares. We are not in Madrid right now. So, we had our local chef de cuisine (me) whip one up with ingredients we found locally (cover photo). It was not exactly the same. But very close. I think the real difference was the bread. The "barras de pan" (what we might call baguettes) in Madrid are awesome and the ones we get here are a little different. We think it's the tap water, a source of great pride among madrileños. Here is the easy recipe we followed to make one sandwich. Our Bocadillo de Calamares 4 to 5 ounces of large, squid rings* Generous pinch of kosher salt A few tablespoons of flour for dusting Olive oil for frying** Six to eight-inch piece of baguette or other crusty loaf Aioli or mayonnaise, or other sauce of choice (optional) If your squid rings are frozen, thaw them overnight in the fridge or follow the quick thaw instructions on the bag. Once thawed, rinse the squid rings and pat them dry between a few layers of paper towels. Heat the oil over high heat until a droplet of water pops on the surface. Meanwhile place the dried squid rings in a small bowl. Sprinkle with salt (a little more than you think) and toss to coat. Sprinkle with flour and toss to coat. shake off the excess flour and fry until they start to become golden, just a few minutes; reduce heat if necessary. Drain on paper towels. I wrapped my roll in foil and heated it for several minutes in a hot oven while I was preparing the squid. To assemble, slice the roll open length-wise but don't cut all the way through. Spread both sides of the roll with aioli or other sauce if using. Fill with the fried squid rings. Take a photo for your social media post, and devour your masterpiece. *To emulate the sandwich you will get in Madrid, they need to be 3/8" to 1/2"-thick rings of squid cut from large tubes. If you can't find them like that, you can use the smaller rings. They will just have a different consistency. **We used a small saucepan with about a quart of olive oil. We store it in a mason jar in the fridge between uses and use it several times so as not to be wasteful. We actually seem to get better results with oil that has been previously used once or twice. Nearly forty years after my first bocadillo de calamares in Madrid, it's still one of my favorite quick bites in the city. Whether you get one at El Brillante, take the sure bet at Bar Postas, gamble on La Campana like I apparently never quite managed to, or fry up your own version at home, it's worth going out of your way for. Grab a caña while you're at it. Have you had a bocadillo de calamares in Madrid? Or is there another Spanish sandwich you'd put up against it? Let us know in the comments.

Iconic Tío Pepe Sign, Puerta del Sol, Madrid Puerta del Sol Madrid If you want a sense of the energy this plaza has, look no further than Mar Lucas's song with the refrain "Hay, hay, hay party en la Puerta del Sol," which essentially means "there's a party in the Puerta del Sol." She's not exaggerating. Look for it on Spotify or YouTube, and if you enjoy artists like Enrique Iglesias, you'll probably enjoy her music too. You can see and hear what all the fuss is about in the official music video, which also gives you a good look at the plaza as it looks today. Watch it here: Puerta del Sol, official video A Center of Activity No matter how long or short your visit to Madrid, you're likely to pass through La Puerta del Sol (some sources say it was named for a gateway that was there until 1510). It's one of the main squares in the city center and it's bustling with activity throughout the day and night. As long as I have been going to Madrid, this has been the case. It is a beautiful plaza, most recently renovated in 2023. The most notable change was to reroute the vehicle traffic that used to run across the south end of the plaza along the Calle Mayor. You may encounter the occasional municipal vehicle, but that’s it. To say it’s a center of activity would be an understatement. If you happen to be in Madrid for Easter, religious processions will pass through this square. It's also where many people go to ring in the New Year. Political and Social manifestations are held here too. Throughout history it has been a center of economic and intellectual activity. And the Puerta del Sol is a typical meeting spot, maybe by one of the fountains or by the statue of the bear and the madroño tree (the symbol of Madrid). Historic Photo of the Puerta del Sol, Madrid The Rising Sun About 165 years ago the first renovations were done, enlarging the plaza on the north side, giving it a curved shape and uniform architecture. Ever since then, the bird's-eye view of the plaza looks like a sun rising on the horizon. One of the first buildings to be completed back then was the building on the east side of the plaza where you'll now find the Apple Store. For most of its history to date, that building was the home of the Grand Hôtel de Paris, one of the first grand hotels in the city and the first one in Madrid with a bathroom in every room and room service. Curiously, when I was studying in Madrid in 1987, some friends were planning to visit me during their spring break. They asked me to find them a good place to stay. And after looking at several hotels I landed on Hotel Paris, which by then was a three-star hotel, still impeccably clean and accommodating. You see, when hotels like the Ritz and the Palace opened, they sort of eclipsed the popularity of the Grand Hôtel de Paris. After many years being the preferred lodging of prominent figures, its glory days eventually ended. Incidentally, the statue of the bear, although it has been moved from time to time, has generally been found at this end of the plaza and you can find it there today. If you need a meeting spot for your group, this would be a good one. For decades, the building was also known for the neon Tío Pepe sign perched on its roof, a fixture of the Madrid skyline since 1936. When the Hotel Paris closed in 2006 and Apple acquired the building for its flagship Puerta del Sol store, the sign came down in 2011 to make way for the renovation. It didn't go quietly. Tío Pepe is a protected Madrid City Landmark. Its removal set off a public outcry, over 50,000 people signed a petition demanding it come back. The sign returned in 2014, relit on a different building facing the Casa de Correos, the same year Apple's store finally opened, delayed in part by archaeological ruins discovered underneath the site during construction. Tío Pepe is a protected Madrid City Landmark. Its removal set off a public outcry, over 50,000 people signed a petition demanding it come back. The Royal House of the Post Office Royal House of the Post Office, Madrid On the south side of the Plaza there's an old building in the Neoclassic style (think symmetry, balance, geometric shapes) with a clock tower. This is the oldest building on the Puerta del Sol dating back to the second half of the eighteenth century when it was the Royal House of the Post Office. It is now a municipal building and the location of the office of the President of the Community of Madrid. This is the clock used for ringing in the new year (oddly I’ve heard that its accuracy is questionable). From there, if you walk several paces toward the center of the plaza you will find the Km 0 plaque embedded in the ground masonry. This is symbolically where the radial highways of Spain converge. It might also be a good meeting spot, although you don’t see it until you are right upon it… so, maybe the bear is a better choice, or just say in front of the clock tower. Dining Near the Puerta del Sol Some Tapas at Casa del Abuelo in Central Madrid In and around the Puerta del Sol you'll find various shops and restaurants, some of which are historic and well worth a visit or two or three. For pastries, everyone loves La Mallorquina on the west side of the plaza (we love the palmeras (aka elephant ear pastries). On the north side of the plaza you have El Corte Inglés, a large department store with everything. Go down the escalator to the basement where you will find a premium wine shop, gourmet food selections, a café, a cosmetic shop, and a large grocery store (which also has wine and beer, etc.). From the southeast corner of the Puerta del Sol, go east on the Carrera de San Jerónimo. At the corner of Calle de la Victoria you will find the Museo del Jamón for tapas, or go a little farther down and on the right side of Carrera de San Jerónimo you will find a more formal restaurant, Lhardy, one of the oldest restaurants in Madrid established in 1839 (you will need a reservation). Then, if you go south on the Calle de la Victoria you will find Casa del Abuelo, famous for their garlic shrimp (pictured above, the croquettes and manchego cheese were also very tasty). Next turn right on Calle de la Cruz where you will find Casa Toni. This place is a little more rustic than others. But trust me, the tapas are very good, and the prices are very reasonable. You might have to wait a bit to get inside and find a spot. The last time we were there five of us ponied up to the bar and had a veritable feast of chopitos (tiny fried cuttlefish), some patatas bravas (fried potatoes with a spicy smoked paprika sauce), chorizo (not the kind we are used to in the US), and morcilla (blood sausage; I adore this) with bread to soak up the sauces and beer and wine to wash it all down. Writing this took me right back…to what was unfolding in these next few photos. Churros with Chocolate Chocolatería San Ginés, Madrid You may have heard of a little place for churros con chocolate called San Ginés. Well, that’s just around the corner too. The street that runs west, off the north corner of La Mallorquina is Calle del Arenal. Head west on Arenal and turn left on Pasadizo de San Ginés and you will find it. You can also head through one of the archways on the north side of the Plaza Mayor (the easternmost one), cross Calle Mayor, and head down the Calle de los Coloreros to get there. There may be a wait and sometimes there won’t be space in the original churrería. So, you'll have to sit at a table outside or in the newer space they opened across the street. If so, there won’t be the charm of the original place, with such a beautiful interior. There are other churrerías that will not have the wait. So, I’d say, go there but be prepared to make a change of plans and have a backup option. I will close by saying that I get so energized in this part of town. There is always something interesting to see. And the bars, restaurants, and shops are abundant. Look for my previous blog post on La Plaza Mayor which is just steps away southwest of the Puerta del Sol. In future posts I will share more about the other areas in this part of the city. What do you want to know or share about Madrid? Leave a comment to help us provide the best information for travelers like you.

The east facing side of the Puerta de Alcalá. Photo credit: Jose Antonio Gallego Vázquez. The Emblematic Puerta de Alcalá We recently wrote an article about the Retiro Park in Madrid. With various entrances, we recommended the one on the southeast side of the Plaza de la Independencia for visitors. It's perhaps the easiest one to find because it's also the location of the emblematic Puerta de Alcalá pictured above. When traffic is light, we recommend getting your photo taken in front of it. What's in a Name? The name of this arch of triumph refers to the smaller city of Alcalá de Henares to the east of Madrid, a university city where I spent a year of graduate school in 1989/90. Alcalá de Henares has a Puerta de Madrid on the west side of town. We will eventually write about this small city, its university, and its literary claim to fame. For now, we will just recommend it as a fun day trip that you can do on public transportation (children will enjoy it too). Update: We wrote about Alcalá de Henares in our article on day trips from Madrid. Be sure to check it out if you're looking for such ideas. Click on this image to get our Madrid itinerary and travel guide, and save time planning your visit to landmarks like this one. A Brief History The Puerta de Alcalá in existence today is actually the fourth version. The third one was demolished in 1764 when King Carlos III wanted to widen a road. He held a contest and Francisco Sabatini's design won. The arch was completed in 1778. It has suffered some damage over the centuries, notably bullet damage from clashes with the French troops in 1808, and again in 1823 during a separate conflict. It's still remarkably beautiful and well maintained. Last year when we visited Madrid it was covered by scaffolding for maintenance. But that was completed, and you can see it now in all its glory. The gate stands 19.5 meters tall with five arches, designed by Sabatini and sculpted by Francisco Gutiérrez and Roberto Michel. Restaurant Terrace, Plaza de le Independencia, Madrid, Spain Nearby Refreshments You can admire this beautiful piece of history while enjoying refreshments at one of the various restaurant terraces in the Plaza de La Independencia. We've done so several times and it's always a nice place to hang out. Or, if you're visiting in one of the colder months, you can step inside and sit at the bar or request a table. Design & Symbolism Worth noting is that the east side of the gate is more ornate because it was meant to welcome visitors and the west side is plainer. When you take your friends to see it, head over to the main entrance to Retiro park. Then with your back to the park entrance, point out the four statues at the top. They represent strength (shield, helmet, and spear), temperance (horse's bit), justice (scale), and prudence (mirror). You'll just have to look closely at each one. I'm not certain of the exact order and online sources don't agree with each other. Next time I'll look closely and take notes. Anyway, I'm sure your friends will be impressed. And we would be remiss if we didn't mention that this was the first arch of triumph built after the end of the Roman Empire. A Bit of Puerta de Alcalá Music Trivia There's even a song about it that was released in the summer of 1986 performed by Ana Belén and Victor Manuel. I started my undergraduate year in Madrid that fall and can tell you it was a major hit and still is today. Many people in Spain and around the globe gravitate to the music of the 1980s. For me, that era of music is still playing in my head, just waiting for a visual cue for the lyrics to pop into my head. When I see the Puerta de Alcalá, it brings me joy. Getting There I tend to leave this out, not because it isn't important, but because I'm so familiar with it and how to get there that I could probably arrive blindfolded were it not for the traffic. If you want to walk from La Puerta del Sol, the geographic center, just head east on Calle Alcalá from the Bear statue, go around the Plaza de Cibeles and continue uphill one block to the Plaza de la Independencia. It's an easy 15-20 minute walk. There are buses, but truly from there, walking is the easiest. From other parts of the city take the metro line 2 to the Retiro station and follow the signs to exit at Parque del Retiro. Click on this image to get our Madrid itinerary and travel guide, and save time planning your visit to landmarks like this one. The Puerta de Alcalá is one of Madrid’s most recognizable and memorable monuments. I learned of its regal history in a song and witnessed its stunning architecture every time I went to Retiro park. Whether you admire its neoclassical beauty, snap a photo with its ornate façade, or enjoy a meal nearby with views of this historic landmark, it’s a piece of Madrid that’s worth your time. Once you see it, I know it'll be part of your lasting memories of Madrid. Have you visited the Puerta de Alcalá? What are your favorite historic sites in Madrid? Let’s talk in the comments!

Prado Museum, Madrid So Many Museums to Choose from in Madrid We must admit that despite the vast amount of time we have spent in Madrid, we still have museums to see for the first time and others that we want to see again for their ever-changing exhibits. There are seemingly countless museums to choose from, big and small, each with their own unique treasures. A year ago, we visited a few museums again: the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Velázquez Palace (part of the Reina Sofia in Retiro Park). We had planned to visit the Royal Palace and the Thyssen-Bornemisza, but there wasn’t enough time. We did see one that we had never made it to previously, the Sorolla Museum and we are so glad we did. What an absolute treasure. And then there is the Chamberí metro station museum that we tried to see unsuccessfully at the last minute. Can we count the Museum of Public Art found along the Paseo de la Castellana? Yes, we can. And it was a fun place to hang out for our own personal photo shoot. This list of museums barely scratches the surface of the art-filled spaces in Madrid. In short, Madrid is full of art. In this post we are focusing on this not so short list to cover in a little more detail and we will mention some others that might be just what you are looking for. The Prado Museum The Museo del Prado is perhaps the crown jewel of the museums in Madrid. You could spend the whole day there or just a couple of hours. This spectacular museum houses the works of over 300 artists. I was astounded by this on a recent visit to their website. There are fourteen featured artists listed on the site whose works occupy significant space in the museum. Our favorites include Bosch, Rafael, Titian, El Greco, Rubens, Velázquez, Rembrandt, and Goya. You should visit the official website for a complete list and decide just how much time you will need for your visit. Some of us had visited the Prado several times previously. So, we decided to do a Withlocals tour with a guide who showed and taught us about some of the most important works. Our guide was Majo and she was wonderful. We really recommend this tour. It was two hours long and just right for our group. There are other tours of the Prado available or you can go it alone. If you go it alone, I highly recommend buying tickets online ahead of time. Either way, be early to ensure that you don't miss the time of your visit. Reina Sofia Picasso's Guernica If you were to go to the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia for the sole purpose of seeing one thing it would be Picasso's masterpiece Guernica. This massive painting is full of emotion. It is an absolute must see. The Guernica exhibit includes many of the studies or sketches Picasso did while preparing to paint it. You will want to have at least half an hour to visit just this small section of the museum. We took this approach on our recent visit because, like the Prado, we had visited several times before. We could go see Guernica over and over again. Since our last visit the museum lifted their ban on taking photos of this work. We snuck one or two anyway... Read more about this museum and purchase tickets here. If you have never visited this museum before and you enjoy the sort of art on display there, you will want to plan to spend several hours there. You could possibly spend the morning at the Prado and the afternoon at the Reina Sofia with a break for lunch in between. There is a nice cafeteria at the Prado or you can find plenty of restaurants in the area around the Reina Sofia. We loved sitting around a table during lunch talking about what we had seen and learned at the Prado. There are two other exhibit spaces that are part of the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia in the Retiro Park: Palacio de Velázquez, and Palacio de Cristal. We will write more about these on a future post about Retiro Park. This brief mention will allow you to do your own research if you so choose. You can read more about them on the Reina Sofia site. Time and weather permitting, you could finish your day in the Retiro Park, seeing these additional exhibit spaces and ejoying all that the Retiro Park has to offer. Note, these photos were taken in 2019 in spaces that typically house temporary exhibits. When you visit you'll find other interesting art in these spaces. Royal Palace of Madrid Royal Palace of Madrid The Royal Palace of Madrid, also known as the Palacio Real, is a palace that was built in the 18th century, commissioned by the Philip V, the first Bourbon king of Spain. It was built on the site of the old Alcázar which had been built by the Moors who had occupied Madrid, then called Mayrit. The Alcázar had burned down and the Royal palace was eventually built on the site. The architect was Sachetti and he began his work on it in 1738. It was completed in 1764. It is the largest royal palace in Europe and, at 135,000 square meters with 3418 rooms, it is nearly double the size of Buckingham Palace in London or the Palace of Versailles in Paris. Don't worry! You will not be covering all of these rooms during your visit, LOL. We have visited a few times and it is always remarkably impressive. You can download an app on your phone and do the self-guided tour. Just don't forget to bring your ear buds. Purchasing the tickets on line will allow you to skip the line. Just plan to get there a little early so as not to miss your assigned time. Across from the palace to the south is the Almudena Cathedral which is also well worth a visit (more on this in a future post) and the newly opened Gallery of Royal Collections (see below). You really should make time to do this tour if the length of your stay in Madrid permits. Incidently, if you walk down the street behind the Almudena Cathedral you can find a park where you will see remnants of the original moorish wall dating back to the ninth century. Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum The last several times we visited Madrid we had the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum on our list but didn't make it. We have been told by our Spanish friends that this is something we should make time for. It just has not worked out because we end up spending a little more time than we thought in other museums. Here you can read about their permanent collection of over 1000 works spanning eight centuries of art. Then if it is of interest to you and you have time to fit it in, click on the tickets link at the top of the page to purchase your tickets online. On Monday afternoons you can see the permanent collection for free (currently). Be sure to check the website for details, though, because this might not always be the case. Caixa Forum Another museum that we love is the Caixa Forum. Near the entrance to this museum there is a massive vertical garden of plants that will make you feel compelled to take a selfie or a family photo. Inside you will get to visit whatever exhibitions are on display during the time of your visit. In 2018 we got to wander through the Andy Warhol exhibit which was incredible. There were interactive areas that were fun for our children (and us). The temporary exhibits at the Caixa Forum keep us coming back for more. It looks like their website is only in Spanish. So, you may need to do some Google translating in order to learn more or to purchase tickets online. Sorolla Museum We visited the Sorolla museum for the first time in March 2023 and immediately asked ourselves what took us so long. This museum is small and manageable. It is in the former residence of Joaquín Sorolla, a famous spanish artist whose art I would call impressionist with an incredibly beautiful use of light (which I seem to recall he learned by studying Goya, another famous Spanish artist from an earlier period). The home was donated by his wife to be used as a museum. It is a beautiful place on its own with gardens and babbling fountains. You can do this in an hour not counting the time to get there (it is a short taxi or metro ride from the center of Madrid; still in the center but not Sol center). If you can fit this into your agenda, you will be glad you did. Museum of Public Art The Museo de Arte Público (Museum of Public Art) is a collection of modern sculptures on display beneath an overpass of the Paseo de la Castellana. It is just a nine minute walk from the Sorolla museum. It is an interesting and fun place to visit and hang out and certainly not something you see every day. And when do you get anything beautiful, fun, and interesting for free these days?! Chamberí Station Museum Another museum we have never actually visited despite our best efforts is the Estación Museo Chamberí (Chamberí Station Museum). This is one of the original eight metro stations in Madrid. It is no longer operational and they have turned it into a museum. Only small groups can visit at a time. So, it is not very easy to get tickets. You cannot buy tickets online. You just go to the Plaza de Chamberí and get in line. If you go to www.metromadrid.es, change the language to English, and click on metro museums you might be able to find out more info. Or just google to see if you can find the hours because the website is a little wonky. On the website they describe the museum this way: " By only walking down a few steps into Chamberí Station, it feels like being back in the Madrid of the 50s and 60s. The old Chamberí Station was part of the first Metro Line that opened in Madrid in 1919 with eight stations: Cuatro Caminos, Ríos Rosas, Martínez Campos, (Iglesia), Chamberí, Bilbao, Tribunal, Gran Vía and Sol. In the early 60s, the Compañía Metropolitana made the decision to increase the lengths of trains and since it was not possible for them to make the station bigger, they had to close it. The station was permanently closed on 22 May 1966." On the website they have a few photos that will give you an idea of what you might get to see. Royal Collections Gallery La Galería de las Collecciones Reales (Royal Collections Gallery) is a totally new museum that opened during 2023. It had not yet opened when we were there in March 2023. But we were thrilled to be able to go in August of 2024. As if we needed another reason to return to Madrid. The museum's website is now fully available in English, including ticket purchases. The museum was built on the west side of the Almudena Cathedral which is directly south of the Palacio Real. It was built there so as not to interrupt the view of the Campo del Moro, a large, beautiful park with gardens that you will want to wander through after your visit to this museum. There are three floors of the museum. The first floor is dedicated to the Catholic Kings, Isabella and Ferdinand who you might be familiar with from your history classes. They were the monarchs who joined forces and funded the age of discovery of the New World starting in 1492 (among other very important achievements; please fact-check us as we are not historians). This floor is also dedicated to the Hapsburg reign in the 16th and 17th centuries. The second floor is dedicated to the Bourbon monarchy that reigned from the beginning of the 18th century until the present; interrupted for some time when Generalísimo Francisco Franco was in power. The third floor is used for temporary exhibits. On display throughout the museum is a collection of 100 pieces from the royal collections including paintings, sculptures, armor, tapestries and other decorative arts. Among these treasures are works signed by El Greco, Velázquez, and Goya, three of the most famous Spanish artists. With the addition of this museum, I think it is safe to say that you could spend an entire day just in this section of the city, seeing the Royal Palace, the Gallery of Royal Collections, the Almudena Cathedral, the remnants of the original wall of Madrid, and sunset at the Debod Temple. And when you want to break for lunch, there are plenty of places to eat in this area, ranging from inexpensive to pricy gourmet food. If you have more time, there are so many more museums in this beautiful city. Just google "museums of Madrid," click on the maps link and scroll through the list. It seems to go on forever. There is literally something for everyone. So have a look and plan accordingly. You can keep returning to Madrid and you will always find something unique and interesting. Important note: some museums might require you to show your passport when entering. Plan to bring yours with you and keep it somewhere safe. We love clothing with discreet zipper pockets for this purpose. Summing it all up, Madrid is a city where art, history, and culture flourish at every turn. From world-class museums like the Prado and Reina Sofía to hidden gems like the Chamberí Station Museum and the Museum of Public Art, there’s truly something for everyone. And now, with the addition of the Gallery of Royal Collections, the city’s cultural landscape continues to expand, offering even more reasons to return. Whether you're drawn to classical masterpieces, contemporary exhibits, or historical treasures, Madrid’s museums promise an unforgettable journey through time and creativity. What’s your favorite museum in Madrid? Or is there one that’s still on your list to visit? Let’s talk in the comments!

Madrid Low Cost Options We know people like Top 5 lists. And we occasionally see people asking what to do in Madrid on a budget. So, here’s a set of curated Top 5 Madrid low cost option lists that are loved by many. We'll look at five in each of several categories: outdoor must-sees, cafés with a local vibe, local eats under €10, and cultural spots. Click the image for our itinerary and guide. Just $14.99! 🏞️ Top 5 Outdoor Must-Sees (Free or Low-Cost) Parque del Retiro: Iconic but spacious enough to feel local. Not only does it feel local, but Madrileños frequent the park because, whether you want to check out a free art exhibit in the Palacio de Velázquez, go for a jog in the shade, wander through manicured gardens, play in a playground, or admire a babbling fountain, this park has enough to keep you busy all day. You can even rent a rowboat for just €6 (€8 on Saturday, Sunday, and Holidays). Maximum of 4 people per boat for 45 minutes. Anyone under 14 must be accompanied by an adult. Templo de Debod: On recent trips to Madrid, we’ve made a point to catch sunset at the Templo de Debod, an ancient Egyptian temple gifted to Spain and rebuilt in Parque del Oeste. Arrive about 30 minutes early, bring a light blanket, and enjoy a snack under the shade trees. The temple once stood near the Nile but was relocated to avoid flood damage. From Plaza de España, head northwest to reach this peaceful, scenic spot. Madrid Río Park: A long green corridor with skate parks, fountains, and shaded paths. Great for walking or biking. This is a vibrant urban park along the Manzanares River, perfect for walking, biking, and cooling off in summer. Families flock to the “playa” water park, with fountains and splash zones ideal for hot days. The striking Arganzuela bridge, a modern architectural icon, connects green spaces with style. Nearby, the Matadero Madrid, a former slaughterhouse turned cultural center, hosts exhibitions, performances, and markets, making Madrid Río a dynamic blend of recreation, design, and creativity. El Rastro (Sundays and holidays only): El Rastro is Madrid’s iconic open-air flea market, held every Sunday and public holiday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. in the La Latina neighborhood, centered around Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores. With roots dating back hundreds of years, it’s a lively maze of antiques, vintage goods, art, and street food, perfect for browsing and people-watching. This is one place where you absolutely need to be vigilant about your belongings. Note, recently there's also Los Sábados del Rastro, which is a revival of a 1970s–80s tradition. Held on the first Saturday of each month, it showcases antiques, art, and fashion in Plaza Vara del Rey. Lavapiés Street Art Walk: Take a self-guided street art tour through Lavapiés, one of Madrid’s most vibrant and multicultural neighborhoods. Start near Calle de Embajadores and wind your way past bold murals, political graffiti, and community-driven installations tucked into alleyways and plazas. Highlights include works from the CALLE Lavapiés festival, where local businesses host rotating art each spring. It’s free, ever-changing, and full of character, perfect for photographers, urban explorers, or anyone seeking Madrid’s creative pulse beyond the museums. La Cuesta de Moyano, Feria del Libro: This is a permanent, year-round Book Fair, near the Atocha train station and the Botanical Gardens on a street named Cuesta de Moyano. This is honestly one of our favorite things to do in Madrid. If you like to browse stalls of books, you'll be in your element! Mornings from 9:30 to 1:30 and afternoons from 4:30 to 7:00. [In case you won't be in Madrid on a Sunday or holiday for the Rastro, we threw in a sixth option.] ☕ Top 5 Budget-Friendly Cafés with Local Vibe Cafelito: Cozy, vintage, and tucked away on Calle del Sombrerete in Lavapiés. Great coffee and chill ambiance. Try the pan con tomate, toasted bread, rubbed with garlic, slathered with grated, fresh tomato and a drizzle of EVOO. Trust us! Toma Café: Hip but not pretentious. Known for excellent espresso and pastries. They have a few locations. The one we've been to is Olavide. But it's a little bit away from the tourist center. You can find images and videos of their three locations by searching on Google Maps. La Bicicleta Café: Bike-themed hangout in Malasaña. Good for teens, with board games and funky decor. Our mouth starts to water just looking at their menu. Malasaña is a great place to hang out and explore at almost any time of day. Federal Café: Near Plaza Mayor, with outdoor seating and affordable brunch options. We've had this on our agenda the last few times we visited Madrid but slept in each time and didn't make it. It gets great reviews, it's in a great location, and the menu has something for everyone. Almalibre Açaí House: Their name means free spirit and they serve up healthy, colorful bowls and smoothies. They have other options if that's not your vibe. Teen-approved and wallet-friendly. 🍽️ Top 5 Local Eats Under €10 Cien Montaditos: Mini sandwiches for €1–2 each. Fun to mix and match. This is a chain all over Spain. It's popular among locals and tourists alike. The first time we went to a Cien Montaditos was on a trip to Santander in Cantabria, Spain in 2014. We were visiting a Spanish friend and he took us there for montaditos (the mini sandwiches) and a few beers. Since then we've gone to one in Madrid and we've been in Sevilla and even Lisbon! El Tigre: Buy a drink, get a mountain of free tapas. Loud, local, and legendary. There are two in Madrid. We've been to the one on Calle de Hortaleza in the Chueca neighborhood. Depending on the time of day it might be packed with a younger crowd. You won't leave this place hungry! El Brillante: Right across from the Atocha train station, this place has been around for a long time and serves up some of the most typical Spanish fare at very reasonable prices. Try the fried squid sandwich (bocadillo de calamares), the tortilla de patata, or one of their many other offerings. You won't be disappointed. You can even go there for churros and chocolate for breakfast or an afternoon treat. Note: this place is very near La Cuesta de Moyano, featured in the first section of this article. You can browse the book stalls and then get an inexpensive, tasty bite to eat here. Bar Santurce (El Rastro area): Sardines grilled to perfection. No-frills, all flavor. Pony up to the bar and order a mug of beer (una jarra de cerveza) and a sharable plate of grilled sardines (ración de sardinas a la plancha) and enjoy them while you watch them grilling more! La Campana (on Calle de Botoneras near Plaza Mayor): Famous for their fried squid sandwich (bocadillo de calamares). Inexpensive and satisfying! There might be a line of people waiting to get in because this place is recommended a lot on social media. There are other places for a sandwich like this near the Plaza Mayor that are also quite good. If you need a bocadillo de calamares fix and don't want to wait, you might also try Postas Cervecería on Calle de Postas. 🎨 Top 5 Free Cultural Spots (No Tourist Crowds) Museo de Historia de Madrid: Fascinating and free. Located in a stunning Baroque building in Malasaña, the Museo de Historia de Madrid traces the city’s evolution from the 16th century to the present. Entry is free, and highlights include historical maps, paintings, and a detailed scale model of 1830s Madrid. The museum’s ornate façade alone is worth a visit, and its quiet galleries offer a rich, uncrowded experience for anyone curious about the capital’s urban and cultural development. Casa de Lope de Vega: Literary gem with free guided tours (book ahead). Hidden on Calle Cervantes in the Literary Quarter, the Casa de Lope de Vega offers a rare glimpse into the life of Spain’s most prolific playwright. Free guided tours (book ahead) take you through preserved rooms, manuscripts, and period furnishings. It’s an intimate, atmospheric stop that connects visitors to the literary heart of 17th-century Madrid, far from the tourist trail. A must for lovers of Spanish literature and quiet cultural immersion. Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida: This serene chapel near the Manzanares River houses Goya’s breathtaking frescoes, painted directly onto its dome and walls. Unlike museum canvases, these works remain in their original setting, offering a rare chance to see Goya’s artistry in situ. The chapel also serves as the painter’s final resting place. Entry is free, and the peaceful ambiance makes it ideal for reflection, art appreciation, and escaping the bustle of central Madrid. Museo Arte Público: Tucked beneath an overpass at Calle de Juan Bravo and Paseo de la Castellana, the Museo Arte Público is an open-air sculpture park showcasing Spanish modern art. Works by artists like Chillida, Miró, and Sempere are displayed in a surprising urban setting, blending infrastructure with creativity. It’s free, uncrowded, and perfect for a contemplative stroll or spontaneous art encounter. A refreshing alternative to traditional museums, especially for fans of abstract and kinetic sculpture. Museo Geominero: Located inside the Instituto Geológico y Minero de España, the Museo Geominero is one of Madrid’s most overlooked treasures. Its grand 1920s interior houses dazzling mineral specimens, fossils, and geological maps from across Spain and its former colonies. Entry is free, and the museum’s quiet atmosphere and vintage charm make it ideal for slow exploration. It’s a surprising favorite for families, science lovers, and anyone seeking a break from the usual cultural circuit. 🚌 Bonus: Madrid's Two Free Zero Emission Buses Read about them here. Fiestas Worth Building a Trip Around Madrid and its surrounding towns take their neighborhood festivals seriously, and nearly all of them are free to attend. In Madrid itself, San Isidro in May honors the city's patron saint with traditional dress, live music, and free celebrations across the city, especially around the Pradera de San Isidro. Come August, La Latina, Lavapiés, and Embajadores light up for San Cayetano, San Lorenzo, and the Virgen de la Paloma, twelve days of street verbenas, dancing, and fireworks. Follow the links to read more about these on our blog. Just outside the city, smaller towns run their own patron saint festivals that are well worth the trip if your timing lines up. We remember going to the Fiestas de San Miguel in Las Rozas de Madrid as students with a group of friends, and it remains one of our favorite inexpensive nights out from that whole era. Las Rozas celebrates in late September into early October, with the biggest day falling on September 29th. We've linked the official website from last year's fiesta in case you want an idea of what happens. The site is in Spanish, but your browser might translate it for you. And if a day trip to Toledo is on your list, try to time it around Corpus Christi, one of the most spectacular free religious processions in Spain. The date moves every year since it's tied to Easter, but it typically falls in late May or early June. Shop Like a Local: Madrid's Markets If you want to skip the sit down meal entirely, grab a few drinks and snacks from any neighborhood market and find a spot in a nearby park. El Retiro, Madrid Río, and even smaller neighborhood plazas all work well for this. It costs a fraction of a restaurant meal, and there's something genuinely nice about eating the way locals do on a warm afternoon. Madrid's neighborhood markets are one of the best low cost ways to eat well, and a few quick tips make them easier to navigate. Go in the morning. Most fresh food vendors are fully stocked from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Afternoons are quieter, and some stalls close for a midday break. Eat like a local. Many markets have small bars or counters serving coffee, tortilla, bocadillos, or tapas. Stand at the bar for the most authentic experience. Order confidently. Pointing is perfectly acceptable. For produce or charcuterie, vendors often ask, "¿Qué te pongo?" or "What can I get you?" Try something regional. Jamón ibérico, Manchego, olives, croquetas, empanadas, and seasonal fruit are reliable picks. Expect mixed pricing. Markets range from budget friendly to gourmet. Prices are posted in the traditional market stalls, and vendors are used to visitors. Great for flexible meals. Markets are ideal for a quick breakfast, a light lunch, or a snack between museum visits. Cash or card. Most vendors accept cards, but a few still prefer cash, especially for small purchases. Saturdays are lively. Weekend mornings are the busiest and most atmospheric, especially in Chamberí and La Paz. Some Markets Worth a Visit Mercado de Antón Martín, traditional with a modern edge, Calle de Santa Isabel 5, Lavapiés. A working neighborhood market mixing butchers and produce stalls with tapas bars and international food, genuinely local and budget friendly. Mercado de la Cebada, traditional and budget, Plaza de la Cebada 15, La Latina. One of Madrid's largest and most castizo markets, real neighborhood prices, and home to the monthly MadridZebada flea market on the first Sunday of the month. Mercado de Maravillas, traditional and budget, Calle de Bravo Murillo 122, Tetuán. The largest municipal market in Europe, over 250 stalls, real neighborhood prices rather than tourist pricing. Mercado de Vallehermoso, modern food hall, Calle de Vallehermoso 36, Chamberí. Destination dining spots alongside traditional stalls, mixed pricing depending on where you eat. You may have heard of other markets like Mercado de La Paz, Mercado de San Antón, and Mercado de San Miguel. While these are all places I recommend, they are not low cost options. Put them on your list if you want to splurge once or twice. Whether you're planning a weekend getaway or a longer stay, Madrid offers countless ways to explore on a budget without sacrificing depth, flavor, or authenticity. These curated Top 5 lists highlight the city’s best low-cost experiences, from leafy parks and vibrant street art to cozy cafés and cultural gems tucked away from the crowds. Madrid rewards curiosity, and with just a few euros and a good pair of walking shoes, you’ll uncover stories, flavors, and views that stay with you long after you’ve left. Click the image for our itinerary and guide. Just $14.99! Which of these spots would you add to your own Madrid itinerary—or have you already discovered a hidden gem we missed? Let us know in the comments!

Madrid: Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral, March 2023 I'm about to break the rule my elementary teacher taught me. She said I had "I-itis" and that I needed to find other ways to start my sentences... Madrid, My First Impression I first arrived in Madrid in the fall of 1986. I didn't know what to expect. I had never been to Europe. I had only seen a few photos. I had a working knowledge of the language, was not even close to being fluent, but was eager to learn and adapt to life in a new place. This beautiful city was so welcoming. I was immediately at ease. It felt like home. In short, my first impressions of Madrid made me want to stay. Every time I return I want to stay. I could leave it at that but you might be reading this to help you decide whether to go. There is so much I want to share about Madrid, too much for one blog post. So, this is the introduction to a series of posts. Each one will be a deep dive into some aspect of the city. Overview of Madrid Almudena Cathedrial Madrid is quite a unique city. It boasts a rich history, with beautiful architecture from various periods and diverse styles dating back to the early 1500s, if you don't count the remnants of the wall that protected three sides of the ninth-century moorish city Mayrit. There are public squares, churches, palaces, municipal buildings, grand hotels, and monuments of various architectural styles dating back centuries. There is even an Egyptian temple perched on a hilltop, gifted to Spain by Egypt in the early 1970s. And one of the most recent additions to the city is the newly renovated Santiago Bernabeu stadium where you can take a tour or see Real Madrid play. Museums to Relish Prado Museum Madrid also has quite a few museums like the national Prado museum with one of the most important collections in the world, the Reina Sofía which houses the Picasso masterpiece, Guernica, and the Sorolla museum that focuses on the beautiful works of one of Spain's most treasured artists, and many others like the recently opened Royal Collections museum. Beautiful Green Spaces to Enjoy Monument to Alfonso XII, Retiro There are green spaces throughout the city where you can relax, ride a bike, go for a walk, or enjoy a beverage at a terrace bar. Retiro park, is a beautiful park. It has fountains, statues, monuments, landmark buildings that are now used as art exhibit spaces, and a lagoon where you can row boats. Then there is Madrid Rio, a green space along the Manzanares river running south and west of the city with both modern and historic bridges. Along one stretch of Madrid Rio you'll find the old slaughterhouse, Matadero Madrid, that was converted into restaurant and exhibit space. There's also the beautiful Sabatini gardens located behind the royal palace and Campo del Moro flanking its western side, not to mention the immense Casa de Campo on the western side of the city. There are too many parks, squares, and gardens to list them all here. So, we'll save them for future posts. It's important to note, though, that over the past several decades the city of Madrid has been converting roads in the center of the city to pedestrian areas with shopping and restaurants. Some examples include calle Fuencarral, calle del Arenal and the Plaza de España as well as the area by the Royal Palace which was totally redone a couple of years ago. The renovation of the magnificent Puerta del Sol was just completed in October 2023. It is wonderful to be able to enjoy this city on foot. Delicious Spanish Food: From Traditional to Gourmet Terraces on a Madrid Street OMG the food! I will really dig into this topic because I love to cook and there are so many places to sample delicious Spanish dishes, tapas, wine and cocktails. There are restaurants that have been continuously operating for hundreds of years, like Botín which opened in 1725 and Lhardy since 1832, both of which continue pleasing diners to this day. And there are trendy new restaurants too. Notably, Spanish chef Dabiz Muñoz was voted the number one chef in the world in 2023 and his restaurant DiverXO is in Madrid. You can make a reservation to dine there on the restaurant's website, but you'll have to plan ahead because their tables are in extremely high demand. Madrileños The people are some of the kindest, most genuine people in the world. They will go out of their way to help you if you need assistance. They take pride in welcoming people but can also tend to keep to themselves. And the streets, cafes, bars and restaurants are always animated with locals and tourists enjoying life. Truly enjoying life. I think this is why I always feel so energized when I visit Madrid. To wrap up (I thought this was just going to be a few short lines), Madrid has so much to offer, enough to keep you coming back for more. So, whether you are visiting for the first time or the seventh, you will be in for a treat. And, I haven't even mentioned the day trips you can do from Madrid... Are you planning a trip to Madrid? We've written numerous articles that are much more in depth. What are you most looking forward to seeing in Madrid when you go?

Planning meets inspiration—coffee, passport, and a tablet loaded with travel tips. Your Itinerary Is a Guide, Not a Gospel 10 Planning Principles That Build Resilient Travel Introduction Even the most meticulous itinerary can feel like its unraveling with a single train delay or a sudden downpour. Resilient travel isn’t about perfection, it’s about preparation with room to breathe. Here are ten planning principles that help minimize stress, maximize experience, and keep your trip memorable and enjoyable, even when things don't go exactly as planned. 1. Start with Anchors, Not Agendas Choose one or two “anchor experiences” per day. These are your non-negotiable activities, the things you build your day around. For some travelers, that might be just one (e.g., a guided tour at 10 AM), while others might comfortably handle two. Everything else is flexible. 2. Know Your Energy Curve Whether you're traveling solo or coordinating with a group, it pays to plan your day around natural energy rhythms. Schedule high-effort activities, like museum visits, guided excursions, or long walks during your personal or collective peak hours. If you're a morning person, that might mean tackling the most immersive experiences before lunch. If you're traveling with others, consider everyone's preferences: early risers can explore while night owls ease into the day, then regroup for a shared lunch or afternoon outing. Midday is a great time to slow down. Build in space for low-effort pleasures like a scenic café break, a nap, or a relaxed stroll, especially helpful if your group includes kids, older travelers, or anyone who benefits from downtime. As the day winds down, lean into atmospheric moments: sunset views, casual browsing, or a mellow dinner. By syncing your itinerary with energy levels, yours and your companions’, you’ll create a flow that feels both intentional and flexible, making space for spontaneity without sacrificing comfort or connection. 3. Use the Rule of Three Limit each day to one cultural, one culinary, and one atmospheric experience. Limit this to one or two scheduled activities per day with the others being more spontaneous. This keeps your itinerary balanced and prevents burnout. Let's look at a few examples of these. 🏛️ Cultural Experiences - Immersion in local heritage, art, or tradition. Attend a Fado performance in Lisbon. Explore the street art of Realejo in Granada. Tour the rich collection of art at the Prado Museum in Madrid. 🍽️ Culinary Experiences - Highlighting local flavors and food rituals. Enjoy pintxos hopping in San Sebastián or go for tapas in Madrid. Take a pasta-making class in Bologna. Take a guided food tour in Le Marais, Paris. 🌅 Atmospheric Experiences - Evoking mood, and sensory immersion. Watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat (this is on our bucket list for sure!). Stroll the lavender fields of Provence in July. Wander the medina of Marrakech or Fez (we did this four decades ago and we still remember it vividly). 4. Build in Buffer Zones Leave intentional gaps between your scheduled activities. These unscripted pockets of time aren’t just practical buffers, they’re fertile ground for spontaneity, reflection, and unexpected delight. Maybe it’s the quiet joy of stumbling upon a street musician, lingering over a second espresso, or chatting with a local vendor. When you're not rushing from one thing to the next, you give your trip room to breathe, and yourself space to absorb it. For solo travelers, these pauses can be grounding moments of personal connection with a place. For groups, they offer flexibility and a chance to recalibrate, especially when energy levels or interests diverge. Often, it’s in these in-between moments that the most vivid memories take root, not because they were planned, but because they were perfectly unplanned. 5. Plan for the Unplannable Before you set off, take a few practical steps that can make all the difference when plans shift or surprises arise. Download offline maps for your destination so you’re not stranded if Wi-Fi drops or data roaming gets patchy, especially useful in rural areas, underground transit, or historic districts with spotty coverage. Double-check cancellation policies for accommodations, tours, and transit; flexible bookings can be a lifesaver if weather changes, illness strikes, or your group’s needs evolve. Make sure you know the local emergency numbers (they’re not always 911), and consider saving them in your phone alongside your embassy or consulate contact info. And yes, consider purchasing travel insurance. It’s not pessimism, it’s smart travel. Whether it’s a lost bag, a medical hiccup, or a last-minute flight change, insurance turns chaos into inconvenience instead of catastrophe. For solo travelers, it’s peace of mind. For groups, it’s a safety net that keeps everyone covered. These small steps don’t just protect your trip, they empower you to explore with confidence. 6. Prioritize Local Logistics Before building your itinerary, take time to understand how locals move through the city. Is walking realistic for the neighborhoods you want to explore? Is public transit reliable, frequent, and intuitive? These questions aren’t just logistical, they shape how much you’ll actually enjoy your time on the ground. In Madrid, walking is a pleasure in central districts like Sol, La Latina, and Malasaña, where pedestrian streets and plazas invite lingering. But if you're heading to the Prado, Retiro Park, or out to El Escorial, Madrid’s Metro and Cercanías train systems are fast, clean, and well-integrated. A 10-ride ticket or tourist pass can save time and money, and the Metro rarely leaves you more than a 10-minute walk from your destination. Or take a city bus (Madrid has two that are completely free and eco-friendly). In Lisbon, walking is scenic but steep, especially in Alfama, Bairro Alto, or Graça. Locals mix walking with trams, funiculars, and ferries, using the metro for flatter, faster connections. Tram 28 is iconic but often crowded; savvy travelers hop on early or opt for the metro and buses to reach Belém or Parque das Nações. The Navegante card or Lisboa Card makes switching between modes seamless. By understanding how locals navigate their cities, you’ll avoid wasted time and unnecessary fatigue. Whether solo or in a group, it’s the difference between feeling like a tourist and moving like a local. 7. Customize What Already Exists Most travelers spend 10–20 hours planning a single vacation. Instead of starting from scratch, consider leveraging professionally developed itineraries and guides and tailor them to your travel style, group dynamics, and interests. It’s faster, smarter, and far more enjoyable. 8. Leave Room for Weather and Mood Even the most beautiful destinations have off days: rain, heat waves, unexpected closures, or just plain travel fatigue. That’s why it’s essential to build your itinerary with flexibility, not just for logistics, but for emotional and physical comfort. Have indoor backups for outdoor plans: if your rooftop dinner gets rained out, maybe there’s a cozy wine bar nearby with live music. If your hike turns into a heatstroke risk, swap it for a museum or a shaded café with a view. And don’t underestimate the role of mood. You or your travel companions might wake up feeling drained, overstimulated, or simply not in the mood for a packed day. That’s not failure, it’s human. Be kind to your future self by including low-effort alternatives: a scenic tram ride in Lisbon instead of a walking tour, or a quiet hour in Madrid’s Retiro Park instead of a crowded market. Resilient travel means planning for the ideal while preparing for the real. When you leave room for weather and mood, you create space for joy, rest, and the kind of memories that feel earned, not forced. 9. Use Tech Wisely, Not Obsessively Apps can be lifesavers, navigating transit, translating menus, finding hidden gems. But they’re tools, not tour guides. When tech starts dictating every move, you risk missing the serendipity that makes travel magical. Let the map suggest, not command. If you wander off course and stumble into a local bakery or an impromptu street performance, that’s not inefficiency, it’s discovery. Balance is key: download what you need, but don’t let your screen become a shield. Look up. Put an earbud in and listen to navigational instructions instead. Ask locals. Follow the scent of something delicious or the sound of laughter down a side street. The best route is often the one you didn’t plan. 10. Accept That Plans Will Shift, and That’s Okay Travel isn’t a checklist, it’s a living experience. Flights get delayed, museums close early, your energy dips, or a new acquaintance invites you to something unexpected. These moments aren’t interruptions; they’re invitations to be present. Let go of the idea that control equals success. The detours, whether literal or emotional, often become the most vivid stories. A missed train might lead to a sunset you wouldn’t have seen. A rainy day might push you into a café where you meet someone unforgettable. Build your itinerary like a framework, not a fortress. Leave space for the trip to surprise you. Conclusion Planning is an act of care. But resilience is what makes travel meaningful. Your itinerary should guide you, not bind you. So plan with intention, travel with grace, and leave space for the unexpected. What’s one travel habit you’ve adopted that makes you feel more confident on the road? How do you balance spontaneity with structure when planning a trip? Leave a comment to inspire other readers.

Medellín, Colombia - Photo Credit: Nicolas Gerardin Shakira Madrid September and October 2026, Dates, Stadium Info, and How to Get Tickets I had been planning a Madrid trip around the Shakira Madrid 2026 residency for September or early October, hoping to catch one of her shows while we were there. The dates never lined up for us in the end, but I'd already done the research, so I'm passing it along for anyone whose calendar works out better than mine did. The Residency Shakira is closing out her record breaking Las Mujeres Ya No Lloran World Tour with an extended residency in Madrid, her only stop in Europe for this leg of the tour. The shows are being held at a temporary venue built specifically for this residency, informally known as Shakira Stadium, constructed at the Iberdrola Music grounds in the Villaverde district, the same location used for the Mad Cool Festival. The Temporary Shakira Stadium For this residency, a temporary venue known informally as the Shakira Stadium is being constructed at Iberdrola Music in Villaverde, the same grounds used for the Mad Cool Festival. Key features: Purpose built temporary stadium Designed by Bjarke Ingels Group, BIG Expected capacity of more than 50,000 per night Immersive staging and upgraded acoustics Full visibility design for improved sightlines Shakira has described the production as something unlike anything Spain has seen before. What to Expect at the Shows While the official Madrid setlist has not been released, recent Latin American shows have included songs from Las Mujeres Ya No Lloran, global hits such as Hips Don't Lie, Waka Waka, TQG, Te Felicito, Ojos Así, and Antología, along with large scale visuals, choreography, and high tech staging. Fans can expect a mix of new material, classic hits, and a production designed specifically for this residency. Confirmed Dates As of this writing, the residency includes twelve dates: September 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, and 27, followed by October 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, and 11. This is up from the nine dates originally announced back in March, so if you're planning around this, I'd double check the current schedule directly before booking travel, since these residency formats have been known to add dates as demand holds up. Tickets Tickets are on sale now through the official sellers, Ticketmaster and Live Nation. If you're new to buying concert tickets in Spain, El Corte Inglés also sells through its own ticketing arm, and its site works in English as well as Spanish. Getting There Iberdrola Music sits well outside the city center, in the Villaverde district south of Madrid proper, so this isn't a venue within walking distance of a hotel in the center. The most direct connection is Metro Line 3, which runs straight through the heart of Madrid and terminates near the venue at Villaverde Alto station, about a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the grounds themselves. Given that direct line, I'd recommend booking a hotel along Line 3 itself rather than picking a place first and hoping the transit works out. Sol is the obvious choice, since it sits in the middle of nearly everything else you'd want to see in Madrid and puts you on the same line as the venue with no transfers required. Other central stops on Line 3, Callao or Tirso de Molina among them, would work nearly as well if Sol doesn't have availability for your dates. If Line 3 doesn't fit your plans, the Cercanías regional trains offer a couple of alternatives. Lines C4 and C5 also serve Villaverde Alto, and Line C3 stops at San Cristóbal Industrial, a short walk from the venue as well. But for a sold out show of this size, I'd stick with Line 3 and a central hotel along it. Fewer transfers means fewer chances for things to go wrong on a night when the trains will be packed. Why This Matters for Your Trip September and early October are already some of the busiest travel weeks in Madrid, and twelve nights of a sold out residency stacked on top of that is going to affect hotel prices and availability well beyond just the concert dates themselves. If you're building a Madrid trip around one of these shows, I'd book accommodations early and build in enough time to actually enjoy the city beyond the stadium, the neighborhoods, the museums, and the food scene are still the reason to come. Click on this image to get our Madrid itinerary and travel guide and save time planning your trip For planning the rest of your trip, take a look through my other Madrid guides for hotels, neighborhoods, and getting around the city.

Visiting Bernabéu During the Line 10 Metro Closure If you’re staying near the Bernabéu or planning a visit for a stadium tour, Bernabéu Market, Plaza Mahou, or a match, you’ll run into a temporary interruption on Metro Line 10 between Nuevos Ministerios and Cuzco. This is starting in March 2026 and is expected to last through the end of the year. The workaround is simple: a short walk, a frequent free shuttle, or a quick taxi or ride‑hail. This guide covers what you need for visiting Bernabéu during the Line 10 metro closure, from the walking route to the shuttle stops to your taxi options. Want a clear, stress‑free plan for your Madrid visit? Tap the image for the itinerary and guide we trust when helping people shape an unforgettable trip. What’s happening - Metro Line 10 Partial Closure Metro de Madrid has paused Line 10 service between Nuevos Ministerios and Cuzco while renovation work continues at Santiago Bernabéu station. To keep people moving along the Castellana, EMT is running a free replacement shuttle, officially labeled SE10, that connects the affected stops. How the free shuttle works The SE10 is a special service, not a normal fare‑collecting bus. That means: The ticket validator stays off. You do not tap, scan, or show anything. You simply step on and ride. It’s designed to mimic the missing stretch of Line 10 as closely as possible. Where to find the shuttle stops The stops are easy to spot and placed exactly where visitors need them: Nuevos Ministerios: On Paseo de la Castellana, right outside the main station exits on the east side of the avenue. Santiago Bernabéu: On Paseo de la Castellana, directly in front of the stadium’s façade. Cuzco: On Paseo de la Castellana, beside the Cuzco roundabout, close to the metro entrances. Plaza de Castilla: On the Castellana service road, near the bus interchange. The buses are clearly marked as SE10 and display “Servicio Especial” on the front. Getting from Nuevos Ministerios to the stadium area If you’re coming from the south, you’ll still take Line 10 to Nuevos Ministerios. From there, you have three easy options. Walk along the Castellana Exit at the north end of the station and follow Paseo de la Castellana straight up to the stadium. It’s a wide, flat avenue and takes about 15 minutes at a relaxed pace. On nice days, this is often the most predictable choice. Take the SE10 shuttle The shuttle links Nuevos Ministerios, Bernabéu, Cuzco, and Plaza de Castilla. It runs every few minutes and is free for anyone covering the closed section. Before big events, it can be busy, but the buses turn over quickly. Grab a taxi or ride‑hail Taxis, Uber, Cabify, and Bolt all operate normally in this area. From Nuevos Ministerios, the ride is short and usually inexpensive. This is the most comfortable option if you’re carrying bags, traveling with kids, or simply want to avoid crowds. Coming from the north If you’re staying near Chamartín, Plaza de Castilla, or anywhere north of the stadium, the process is just as simple. Take Line 10 to Plaza de Castilla or Cuzco, then either walk down the Castellana or hop on the same free SE10 shuttle heading south. The stops are directly on the avenue, and the ride to Bernabéu takes only a few minutes. This route is very familiar to us from our days living in Chamartín. Quick comparison Option Time Cost Why choose it Walk About 15 minutes Free Direct, simple, no waiting SE10 shuttle 5 to 10 minutes Free Frequent and easy to spot Taxi or ride‑hail 3 to 6 minutes Low fare Comfortable and reliable EMT lines 27 or 147 5 to 12 minutes Standard fare Good if one arrives as you reach the stop Practical tips If you're going to a match, give yourself a little extra time. If the weather is good, the walk is pleasant and avoids crowds. You'll also pick up on the match day energy building around you. If there are crowds of people waiting for the SE10 shuttle, you might have to wait a while depending on the number of people waiting and the capacity on the shuttle. If you prefer convenience, taxis and ride‑hail cars are plentiful around Nuevos Ministerios. But, on match days they might be difficult to get. Book ahead if you can, and be prepared to pay surge pricing. After your visit, you can return the same way. Shuttle stops and taxi ranks are easy to find, and the walk back down the Castellana is just as straightforward. The crowds are the variable. Wrapping up, the temporary closure on Metro Line 10 will be part of life around the Bernabéu for a while, but it shouldn’t complicate your plans. Between the free SE10 shuttle, the short and straightforward walk, and the abundance of taxis and ride‑hail cars, getting to the stadium and its surrounding attractions remains simple. Once you know where to step off the metro and how to continue the last stretch, the detour becomes just another part of the day. Madrid is good at keeping people moving, and this stretch of the Castellana is no exception.

Interior Photo of Santiago Bernabéu Taken During the Tour Several Years Ago Santiago Bernabéu Stadium Allure Whether you live in Madrid or you're just visiting, there's a good chance that you'll have a reason to go to the Santiago Bernabéu stadium. You might not have thought so. Read on to find out whether this should be on your itinerary and if so, how you might get there. But first, take a few seconds to view the photos above. The cover photo and the first two photos in the gallery were from a visit we made to the stadium in 2014 to see El Clásico, a La Liga rivalry match between Real Madrid CF and FC Barcelona. The last one is a view of the current exterior of the stadium following extensive improvements in recent years. El Clásico happens twice each season, once in the fall and once in the spring, each team with a home and an away match. We lucked out because we'd been planning our trip to Madrid and learned that El Clásico was going to take place in Madrid during our stay. What great fortune! Anyway, I digress. The fourth photo is much more recent as the stadium has been undergoing a massive billion-euro renovation. The main part of the renovation was completed by mid-2023. But, as you will learn below, as of this writing there are ancillary projects that are still underway that will continue to transform the stadium, bringing more features to please the whole crowd. Click on this image to get our Madrid itinerary and travel guide and save time planning your trip! The Bernabeu Tour Before we jump into the soon-to-be-added features, we should give you some logistical information in case you want to go there. At this point you might be asking yourself, when are we going to find out why we would go there if not to see a match. Well, there is an incredible tour that most will enjoy even if they're not Real Madrid fans or even soccer / European football fans. The tour only lasts an hour or so and you can get tickets ahead of time at the Real Madrid website. There are now three choices, Classic, Flexible Classic, and Premium. Pick the one that works best for you and go. You'll enjoy it and you'll want to buy some merch in the official store at the end of the tour. We've done the tour three times and plan to do it again soon. They do a good job of changing the tour to keep it relevant and engaging. Shop for Real Madrid Merch If you just want to go to the official store, you can do that. The entrance is on the east side of the stadium, if memory serves me. There are a few other official Real Madrid stores around the city. The other one we've shopped at is on the Gran Via, not too far from the entrance to the Metro. Attend a Concert or Event Another reason you might want to go is to see a concert. The stadium regularly hosts major acts, the Taylor Swift Eras Tour played there in 2024, for instance, and it's worth checking what's scheduled during your visit.. Lastly, it is a very impressive landmark for a photo opportunity. Environment Outside Santiago Bernabéu after El Clásico 2014 Departing the Match or Event After a match or event, depending on the score, things can be a bit rowdy in the immediate area. You can imagine the crowds of people leaving the stadium. It holds more than 80,000 people and events sell out. Some of these people may have driven and parked nearby. This is how I went to my first Real Madrid match back in the late 1980s (as a passenger). Most, however, are going to try to take the metro, a taxi, an Uber, a bus or just walk. No matter which means of transportation they take, getting home or back to the hotel is probably going to be much more of a challenge than getting there. Some people arrive earlier than others, spreading things out a bit. So, how long will it take you to get there and how should you go? Let's dive into each method briefly. Transportation Options Should I walk? that depends. But the answer is probably no unless you are staying somewhere nearby. Many visitors stay in a more central location, maybe near La Puerta del Sol. So, we'll use that as our starting point (for brevity we'll call it Sol). The route is relatively straight forward. You walk east to the Paseo de la Castellana, turn left and head north for about an hour (Google says it's one hour and 12 minutes from the start of your walk). The one plus is that you know approximately how long it will take you. And it won't cost you any euros. But there are other ways that can get you there much more quickly without expending as much energy. And you probably won't blow your budget. The Cercanías (regional) train is another option. You can get a Cercanías train in Sol (enter like you're going to the Metro and look for the red upside-down C sign). Take that train to Nuevos Minesterios, go out to the street (you want to exit on the east side of La Castellana) and take bus 27 in the direction of Plaza de Castilla. Or, you can skip the bus and just walk from Nuevos Minesterios to the stadium. This will take you 20 to 30 minutes depending on whether you took bus 27 or walked. On the way back to Sol this might not be the best option. There will be crowds and the Cercanías trains only run until midnight. This will probably be less crowded than just taking the metro from the Santiago Bernabéu station because of all the crowds and the proximity to the stadium. The Metro can be the most efficient way to make this trip. From Sol you take the light blue line (#1) in the direction of Pinar de Chamartín. In two stops you change at Tribunal and get the dark blue line (#10) in the direction of Hospital Infanta Sofía. Quick note, Line 10 service between Nuevos Ministerios and Cuzco is temporarily paused for station renovations, expected to run through the end of 2026, so check our separate post on getting to the Bernabéu during the closure before you rely on this route. Then four stops later you get off at Santiago Bernabéu. This trip will take about 25 minutes getting there. But getting back to Sol will be challenging just like the Cercanias. The metro runs until 1:30 AM which is helpful. So, you might have a better chance timing-wise with the Metro, even if you have to wait. You could walk south and east to find a less crowded metro station. I recommend having a schematic of the metro handy for just this purpose. Another way is to just take the bus. Bus 150 is the bus you would take from Sol to Santiago Bernabéu. This bus is near and dear to us as we rode it many times as students years ago. It has a stop directly across the street from the building we lived in. The EMT busses are easy to figure out and they use the red Transportes card just like the metro.The bus will take about 30 minutes. Busses have their own lane on the Paseo de la Castellana. So, my guess is that the return trip would take the same amount of time. But you can only get on the bus if there is space and there will probably be a lot of people at the bus stop. If you are heading south to Sol, maybe try to game the system and walk north to an earlier bus stop and get on there before the crowds. Either way, make sure you're on the west side of the Paseo de la Castellana when you get on the bus if you are headed south toward Sol. Taxis can be great. They cost more than mass transportation. But, the cost is pooled among the group. So, it might work out to be similar economically. The downsides are that, if there is traffic, the taxi can take much longer than taking mass transit and finding one after the event will seem impossible. You might have to walk several blocks east or west and find one more easily. The neighborhoods are generally safe. We're guessing Uber will have its own issues after the event. You can expect surge pricing, and availability will be a consideration. So, you could reserve an Uber for the return trip. Just remember to allow plenty of cushion to get to the Uber after the event. And the Uber driver might have difficulty getting super close to the stadium. So, you'll want to keep that in mind. Bernabéu Market Recently opened, Bernabéu Market is a food hall of sorts in the base of the stadium. It’s 3,000 square meters (a little more than 3,000 square yards) with 25 stalls offering national and international foods. It’s a little more random than the typical grid‑iron food hall, modeled to evoke the feeling you might get in parts of Tokyo or Hong Kong. The food is on the upscale side. On game days, a portion of the food hall may be closed to the public for team use and the rest accessible to visitors. The rest of the year, it’s open to everyone, whether or not you have an event ticket. KO by 99 (Rooftop Japanese Dining) The KO by 99 restaurant, specializing in Japanese cuisine, recently opened on the rooftop of Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, marking a major milestone in its ongoing transformation. As the first business to launch on the stadium’s rooftop, it offers panoramic views of the pitch and reinforces the venue’s push to become a year‑round entertainment hub. Arzábal (High‑End Spanish Dining) KO by 99 joins other high‑end dining spots already operating inside the stadium, including Arzábal, which continues to anchor the culinary lineup with its upscale Spanish comfort food and strong local following. Plaza Mahou (In‑Stadium Brewery Experience) Another standout is Plaza Mahou, featuring a unique in‑stadium brewery concept that has become a signature part of the Bernabéu’s hospitality offering. Together with Puerta 57 and the newly opened KO by 99, it contributes to the stadium’s food and beverage revenue having quadrupled in just one year. The Sky Bar They built a super exclusive nightclub and VIP lounge in the stadium too, but it's had a rough road. The original operator ran into serious financial trouble and legal disputes, which kept the space closed well past its original target date. As of May 2026, Real Madrid regained full control of the Sky Bar following a court approved settlement, so the club is now back in charge of finishing the project. Still, no new opening date has been announced. Other Projects (as of March 2026) Now, about the ancillary projects still underway to further enhance the venue: they are adding underground parking, redoing the Metro station, and adding a high‑end night club. If you plan to visit soon, none of these will be complete. So, you’ll have one more reason to return to Madrid. Let’s dig in to each. Parking can be a major hassle near such a big stadium. So, they are adding two underground parking lots, one on either side of the stadium. The one on the west side will have about 1,200 spaces and the one on the east side just over 600. The expected completion date for both was originally October 2025, but construction continues into 2026 with no firm public timeline. The Metro station remodel is now underway and isn’t expected to be completed until early 2027. While these projects are underway, you’ll see evidence of it such as dust, debris, and construction equipment. Imagine the people who live in this neighborhood, enduring the past five years of construction and facing three more. So remember to smile and be kind to everyone you meet. Whether you’re a die‑hard (European) football fan, a curious traveler, or just someone looking for a great experience in Madrid, the Santiago Bernabéu has something for you. From exciting matches and immersive stadium tours to major concerts and upcoming renovations, this iconic venue is evolving into a multi‑purpose entertainment destination. No matter how you get there, it’s worth the trip. Have you ever been to a match or event at Bernabéu? What was your experience like? Let’s chat in the comments!