Sevilla! Tourism Chronicles - Day Four of Seven
- Charles Jordan
- Feb 24
- 9 min read
Updated: Mar 31
Exploring the Rich History and Culture of Sevilla: A Series
Previously we wrote a Sevilla, Spain travel guide and the first, second, and third articles in this series of seven, chronicling our recent visit to Sevilla. If you haven't already, you may wish to read them before this. Or maybe you're mostly interested in the places mentioned in this one. Whichever the case may be, we're glad you're here learning about our magical trip to Sevilla.
Real Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena
If you read our article about day one of this seven-day chronicle you may recall that we tried to visit this church on that day, but were unable to. Since we were going to be nearby, we decided to try again. We had stayed out late the night before and got started about an hour later than we had intended. Consequently the doors had just closed before we arrived and we were not able to go in. We had not paid attention to the closing time... If you want to visit, pay close attention to the hours on their website and plan accordingly. We were both disappointed and amused that we missed the chance to visit twice! It became a bit of an inside joke for us. Hopefully we'll get to see it one day. If you haven't already, you can read more about it in our previous article.
Lunch at Restaurante Realcázar
Restaurante Realcázar is located across from the university, and offers a fusion of traditional and contemporary cuisine. They offer salads and lighter fare as well as local favorites and delicious entrees, making it a convenient spot for a refreshing meal if you're planning to spend the afternoon in this part of town. As a bonus, just south of this restaurant, you'll find some shopping, including a vintage clothing shop or two. After our late night out, the craving for something fresh and light was strong. On this particular day they were quite generous with the salad dressings. So, if you prefer a lightly dressed salad, we recommend requesting it on the side or lightly dressed. The salmorejo (cold tomato soup decorated with egg white and serrano ham) was delicious and very filling. With their wide variety of offerings at a reasonable price, this place is sure to please everyone in your group.
Exploring the University
The University of Sevilla, established in 1505, is one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Spain. It offers a wide range of undergraduate and postgraduate programs and is known for its beautiful campus. The University's main building, known as the Royal Tobacco Factory (Real Fábrica de Tabacos), has a fascinating history. Originally constructed between 1728 and 1771, it was one of the largest industrial buildings of its time. Walking through the university, you could feel the rich history and academic spirit. The mix of old and new buildings, bustling students, and serene courtyards made it an enjoyable place to explore. In some ways it reminded us of our days studying at the University of Alcalá de Henares which was established in 1499. To us, some of the most remarkable architecture in Spain is that of its oldest universities. And this main university building in Sevilla is easily visited as a slight detour on the way from the Cathedral to the María Luisa Park (where the Plaza de España is located). Just walk down Calle San Fernando, enter the gates at the main entrance, walk through the building, stopping to learn about its history and take in the masterful architecture. Then exit the other side turning left onto Calle Palos de la Frontera. From there it's just a short walk to the park and the Plaza de España.
Hanging Out at the Plaza de España
One of Sevilla's most iconic landmarks, the Plaza de España is a large semicircular "square" in the center of Sevilla, built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It's a stunning structure with beautiful tiled foot bridges and alcoves representing different Spanish provinces. We also love the beautiful central fountain. If you want, you can rent a little row boat and navigate along the canal. It can be a little tight. So, it's a good idea to have at least one person in the boat with a little rowing experience. We chose not to do the row boats on this particular day due to time constraints. By this time of the afternoon the sun was high in the sky and it felt quite warm. So, after we enjoyed the fountain in the plaza we checked out the ceramic tiles representing the provinces and then got a break from the sun, walking in the shade of the arcade. The Plaza de España is always a sight to behold no matter how many times you get to visit. The grand architecture, the intricate tiles, and the peaceful canal in the middle make it a perfect spot to take a leisurely stroll, and enjoy the beauty of this corner of the María Luisa Park.
Visiting the Cathedral (La Catedral)
Sevilla's Cathedral, (La Catedral de Sevilla), is a Gothic-style cathedral built in the 15th century. As previously noted, it's the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and houses the tomb of Christopher Columbus. When visiting, we listened to the audio guide as we made our way around the perimeter. Notable features include chapels, tombs, altarpieces, carvings, and ceremonial relics; and they are numbered with the corresponding section of the audio guide. So, you can listen to the whole thing in order or pick and choose based on what catches your eye. Since we had visited previously we decided to take the latter approach, and we learned a few new things in the process. The grandeur of the Gothic architecture with its soaring columns and ornate ceilings gave us an uplifting sensation.
Let's take a fairly brief look at some of the key features of the Cathedral. You can learn more about them on the tour or online before you go, whichever suits you. Purchasing tickets online at the official site before you go will ensure you get in when you want to visit.
One of the Cathedral's most iconic features is La Giralda. During the Almohad dynasty a mosque had been built on the site of the Cathedral and La Giralda was its minaret. Later on when the Cathedral was built, the minaret was converted into a bell tower for the Cathedral. Climbing the 34 cobbled ramps to the top is something that many would recommend. If you're able to do it, the walk up La Giralda is has its own little surprises. Each step on the numerous cobbled ramps brings you closer to the top and along the way there were small glass enclosures on the interior of the tower displaying various artifacts. Once at the top you're rewarded with panoramic views of the city, making the effort worthwhile. While there, we were able to identify other landmarks we had visited from a completely different perspective.
The Chapter House (Sala Capitular) is another notable highlight. The Renaissance Chapter House, built in the 16th century, features a stunning elliptical dome. Here you'll find various paintings by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, one of the most revered baroque painters of the seventeenth century. Among these works is the Immaculate Conception and several paintings of saints. The intricate details and artistry as well as the masterful paintings by Murillo make it a must-see highlight within the cathedral.
The Main Sacristy (Sacristía Mayor) of the cathedral also dates back to the 16th century. This space houses religious service items like monstrances and other relics. Its circular dome has a central skylight bringing light to the space, showcasing carved reliefs of the Last Judgment.
Visitors can find a place of quiet contemplation in the Chapel of Saint Andrew (Capilla de San Andrés), which houses the Christ of Clemency (Cristo de la Clemencia), one of the greatest works of sacred art.
The Tomb of Cristopher Columbus (Tumba de Cristóbal Colón) has been in the cathedral since 1899. Its sculptural group is conceived as a funeral procession with four heralds in period armor, and bearing the shields of the four Spanish kingdoms: Castilla, León, Navarra, and Aragón, symbolizing the unity of Spain. It's a true work of art. We carefully listened to the audio guide while viewing and learning about its key features.
The Chapel of the Virgin of the Ancient (Capilla de la Virgen de la Antigua) is one of the most important chapels in the cathedral. It features a representation of the Virgin of the Ancient from the late 14th century. As Americans, we often find ourselves amazed by art and architecture that dates back so far. It's really hard to wrap your head around what went into creating things like this at a time when today's technology didn't exist.
The Chapel of Saint Anthony (Capilla de San Antonio), converted into a baptistry in the mid-17th century, boasts a large central Renaissance baptismal font and two important paintings by Murillo. The massive painting that captured our attention is the Vision of Saint Anthony of Padua. We think you'll find it engaging too.
Another significant feature is the Jubilee Altar (Altar del Jubileo) or Silver Altar, a colossal silver Eucharistic altar from the late 17th century used for extraordinary liturgical celebrations of the Blessed Sacrament. It's interesting how much this impressed us. We actually found ourselves wondering if people take it for granted when they attend a regular Sunday mass there.
The Main Altarpiece (Retablo Mayor) is the grand altarpiece in the Main Chapel (Capilla Mayor) of the Cathedral, making it a focal point of the cathedral's interior. It's worth noting that this impressive work took eight decades to complete and features 45 panels of intricately carved and gilded scenes of the lives of the Virgin Mary, Christ, and various saints. Can you imagine? Artists working on this stunning piece of art probably had this as their main focus day in and day out during their adult life. It's truly amazing when you stop and think about it.
Located in the transept just in front of the Capilla Mayor, the Chorus (El Coro) houses an imposing and majestic organ surrounded by carved wooden chorus seating. This was less captivating to us than some of the other features of the Cathedral. We did wonder what it would sound like when the organ is playing and the choir is singing. The space must be filled with joy or sadness depending on what hymn is being played.
Finally, the Patio de los Naranjos, originally the sahn (open central courtyard) of the mosque, has undergone many restorations during the Christian period. This courtyard, with its orange trees, offers serene moments after what to us was an intense amount of sensory stimulation. It also served to remind us of the site's history.
The Cathedral is quite an impressive place. To say we were in awe of the grand scale and ornate details would be an understatement; this despite the fact that we had visited previously.
A Break for Tapas
After climbing the ramps of the Giralda and visiting the Cathedral we were ready for a little break. So, we headed into the Judería and found a terrace table at Bar La Hostería del Laurel (Pl. Venerables, 5) right across from Hospital los Venerables. The food was delicious and the service was attentive. We had good conversation and played a bit of cards together while waiting for our food to arrive. A memorable dish was the delicious grilled prawns. They even brought us little moist towelettes in a format we had never seen before. Imagine a little round, white pill served on a plate and doused with a bit of hot water, making it expand into a hot towel... it was an interesting surprise and we plan to look for these at home. We really enjoyed this little respite, before heading to our hotel to freshen up for the evening.
March 31,2025 Update: We've been told that according to Google Maps, La Hostería del Laurel is temporarily closed. We don't know if this is true. If you find out otherwise, drop us a comment. We really enjoyed it.
More Delicious Tapas
In the evening we went to a few different places for tapas and small plates. The first stop was a place called Milonguitas (C. Tomás de Ibarra,2) where we enjoyed their Padrón peppers, Pork Tenderloin in whiskey sauce (Solomillo al Whiskey), and small meat pies (empanadillas). Then we walked around for a bit with the intention of trying the food at Castizo Tapas Bar (C. Zaragoza, 6). We were so glad we tried this place. While there we tried several dishes including gildas (white anchovy and basque pepper skewers), and savory mushroom tiramisu with parmesan froth and free-range egg. It was truly a delicious end to our immersive afternoon.
We hope you're enjoying the chronicles of our magical journey through this enchanting city. Whether you're planning your own visit or simply dreaming of far-off places, we hope our stories inspire you to discover the treasures of Sevilla for yourself. We have three more chronicles coming, covering more about Sevilla, our half day trip to Jerez de la Frontera, our day trip to Ronda, and our last day in Sevilla.
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