Lisbon! A Day of Discovery, Flavor, and Stunning Views
- Charles Jordan
- Jun 20
- 9 min read
Updated: Jun 21
In This Article
A well-earned morning wake-up after an intense first day
Museu Arqueológico do Carmo (Carmo Archaeological Museum), a breathtaking ruin under Lisbon’s sky
Moorish Quarter and Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, a challenging climb with stunning rewards
Lunch adventures, hidden culinary gems and an authentic Portuguese meal at Casa do Alentejo
Castelo de São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), history, spectacular views, and wandering peacocks
Museo do Fado (Fado Museum), a crash course in Portugal’s soulful music tradition
Evening relaxation, a cold beer, shopping, riverside stroll, and a flavorful dinner in Cais do Sodré
Morning Awakening & A Missed Sunrise
After an exhilarating first day in Lisbon, marked by 30,000 steps, a whirlwind of exploration, and incredible food, we allowed ourselves the luxury of waking up naturally, no alarms, no rush.
Though we had considered watching the sunrise from Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Viewpoint of Saint Lucy), waking up at exactly 9:00 AM meant we missed that moment. No regrets, though, we were well-rested and ready for another day of adventure.
A Breathtaking Ruin, Carmo Archaeological Museum
By 10:00 AM, we arrived at the Museu Arqueológico do Carmo (Carmo Archaeological Museum). The moment we stepped into the open ruins of this 14th-century convent, the scene was breathtaking.
Set against a bright blue sky, the open ruins of the former Carmo Church offered a striking and peaceful space to explore. Without a roof overhead, sunlight poured through the stone arches, casting shadows across the walls and floor.
Throughout the site, carefully placed artifacts and sculptures gave the sense of an outdoor gallery. Originally established in 1864 by the Portuguese Archaeologists Association, the museum began as a kind of “salvaged heritage” collection, gathering pieces of archaeology, architecture, and sculpture rescued from around the country. The result is an eclectic mix, from Roman inscriptions and pre-Columbian ceramics to an Egyptian sarcophagus and mummy, along with objects unearthed from prehistoric settlements like Castro de Vila Nova de São Pedro.
Some installations are classic, others more contemporary, but together they add quiet texture to the space, inviting visitors to reflect not only on Lisbon’s layered past, but on the care taken to preserve it. (https://www.museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt/coleccoes.html, downloaded June 19, 2025)
The visit was peaceful and contemplative. We didn’t linger over every placard, but if you’re a meticulous reader, you’ll need more than the 30 minutes we spent here. Either way, Carmo is a must-see, a place where history and aesthetics merge seamlessly.
Unexpected Encounters in the Moorish Quarter
We then hopped on the metro to Martim Moniz, eager to explore the Mouraria (Moorish Quarter). Our expectations quickly shifted, construction sites blocked the views of some beautifully tiled buildings, making it harder to appreciate their intricate designs.
We had also expected vibrant street art, but we didn't find any in the areas we explored. The streets felt quieter than anticipated, despite the construction sites. Still, the neighborhood had a distinct character, shaped by its mix of old and modern influences.
Our walk led us to one of the longest, steepest staircases we’d ever climbed. With each step, the incline felt more intense, and we took occasional breaks along the way. We weren’t alone in this, several other people were making the same climb, occasionally pausing for a moment to catch their breath, adjust their footing, or take in the view unfolding behind us. Some exchanged quick smiles or nods, sharing an unspoken understanding of the challenge.
At the top, we stepped into Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Viewpoint of Our Lady of the Hill), arriving at about 11:25 AM. The panoramic views from here were nothing short of remarkable. The views of colorful hillside buildings and the Tagus River stretching into the distance made the climb well worth the effort. We lingered, soaking up the moment, before descending the same staircase, carefully navigating the steep steps and feeling grateful for this relatively brief but breathtaking stop. We guessed this was near the top of one of the seven hills.
Lunch Hunt, A Stroll Through Hidden Culinary Gems
By noon, hunger set in, and we ventured toward Rua Rodriguez Sampaio, a street rumored to offer excellent restaurants, including a Michelin-starred spot. Upon arrival, several places looked promising, Bardô, Libertà, Rubro, Addiction, but none opened until 1:00 PM.
So, we took a detour through Rua de São José, discovering various enticing eateries and shops:
The Fam Kitchen, people were lining up outside.
Cheer & Chocolate, a charming café.
Solar dos Presuntos, adorned with photos of Cristiano Ronaldo and David Beckham.
Leitaria da Anunciada, later, we’d return here for chocolate cake and a nightcap.
Tempero Gaucho, an Argentinian spot tucked in the neighborhood.
Along the way, we also stepped into a beautiful little historic church, its interior adorned with blue and white azulejos, framing a stunning altar, an unexpected but delightful discovery. We didn't find the name of the church at the entrance. But, with a bit of investigation we found it to be the Igreja de São José dos Carpinteiros (Church of Saint Joseph of the Carpenters).
This Baroque and Pombaline-style church dates back to the 16th century and was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. It’s known for its richly detailed façade, 18th-century azulejo panels, and historical ties to Lisbon’s artisan guilds, particularly through its association with the Casa dos Vinte e Quatro (House of the Twenty-Four), a municipal body representing craftsmen.
Casa do Alentejo, An Authentic Portuguese Meal
A friend had recommended Casa do Alentejo, so we made our way there. Through its grand entrance, we climbed the main staircase to a courtyard patio before heading upstairs to its elegant dining rooms.
Settling in at about 12:30 PM, we were among the first diners, but by 1:00 PM, the restaurant was packed. Our meal consisted of:
A couple of beers to start
A sack of fresh rolls with butter
Arroz de Borrego com Cogumelos (Rice Stew with Lamb and Mushrooms), served in a copper pot
Our waiter was friendly and efficient, making sure we had everything we needed. The cold beer was refreshing after a long morning of walking, and the lamb and mushroom rice stew, served in a copper pot, was rich and satisfying.
Not long after we sat down, a Portuguese family arrived, grandparents, parents, and kids, adding to the lively feel of the restaurant. As more diners filled the space, the energy shifted from quiet to bustling, making it clear that Casa do Alentejo is a spot where locals and visitors come to enjoy good food in a warm, welcoming setting.
Castelo de São Jorge, Where History Meets Breathtaking Views
By 2:00 PM, we arrived at Castelo de São Jorge (Castle of Saint George). Thanks to the Lisboa Card, we skipped the long-ish queue and entered a world where history and panoramic views merged beautifully.
A Fortress with Layers of Time
Standing atop Lisbon’s highest hill, the castle boasts a rich and layered history. Initially founded by Arabs in the 11th century, it served as a citadel overseeing political, administrative, and military affairs in Al-Uxbuna, the Arab name for Lisbon. But its roots run far deeper, archaeological remnants unearthed within its grounds trace back to the Phoenicians, Romans, and Visigoths, whose presence left only elusive traces: pottery shards, foundations, and whispers of forgotten structures beneath the modern stone.
Spectacular Views & Wandering Peacocks
Throughout the castle grounds, breathtaking views framed the city below. The welcome cool breezes and occasional peacock calls created a surprisingly relaxing atmosphere despite the bustle.
The castelejo, or inner keep, is the oldest and most fortified section of Castelo de São Jorge, offering some of the most rewarding views in the entire complex. Inside its walls, you’ll find a series of stone staircases that lead up to lookout towers, each offering a unique vantage point over Lisbon and the Tagus River. Visitors can walk along the castelejo walls, which connect the towers and give a sense of the castle’s original defensive purpose. The views make it well worth the effort if you're able. Just watch your step within the castelejo because the ground/floor is uneven in spots.
Inside the museum, historical artifacts provided valuable context, shedding light on the elite figures who once occupied the Alcaçova (Citadel), managing the city's governance.
With endless steps to climb and explore, an hour here was ideal, unless, of course, you wanted to linger over a drink at the terrace restaurant, basking in the magic of the hilltop fortress.
Oddly, leaving was a little difficult because the location of the exit was not clear to us. On the official website there's a helpful interactive map , helpful to get a visual if you don't speak or read Portuguese. When you hover over the icons, the narratives are in Portuguese. So, we took some screen clippings of it (below). The map shows the entrance (entrada) and exit (saida) in various places (the red pins with arrows pointing left and right). The one in the first of the three images is the entrance. The others are entrances/exits to/from different spaces within the castelo, such as the castelejo and the museum. Honestly, the place where we exited is not marked on the schematic, making us wonder if they had changed things at some point. It took us a few minutes, but we found our way out.
Museo do Fado, A Crash Course in Portugal’s Soul
By 3:30 PM, we made our way to the Museu do Fado (Fado Museum). On the walk down from Castelo de São Jorge, we passed by the Miradouro das Portas do Sol (Viewpoint of the Gates of the Sun), pausing briefly at the water filling station in the small plaza across from the viewpoint, a helpful spot to refill before continuing downhill. Though Google Maps estimated a 10-minute walk, Lisbon’s steep streets stretched it to 20 minutes.
The museum was straightforward and well-organized, with exhibits covering the history, cultural impact, and notable figures of Fado. It was a multimedia experience, photos, recordings, and video clips showcased iconic performances, while an audio guide helped set the mood. Instruments like the Portuguese guitar highlighted the technical side of Fado, and archived documents revealed the evolution of its lyrics and themes.
We enjoyed reading various placards, photographing some that caught our attention so that we could revisit them later. The following quote is from one of them.
"... The fado singer/player often had tattoos or drawings printed on his skin, made by himself or any [tattoo artist], on his hands, between the index finger and the thumb, on the arms and the chest. These drawings would generally be painted in red and depict anchors, ships, guitars, flowers, animal, different inscriptions, pierced hearts, joint hearts, the cross, the five sores, and other love, religious, metaphoric and fantasy signs (...)" - Pinto de Carvalho (Tinop), História do Fado, Lisboa, 1903
We spent about 30 minutes exploring, which was enough to get a solid overview, though true music enthusiasts could easily spend longer. The visit gave us a deeper appreciation for Fado’s role in Lisbon’s identity without feeling overwhelming or overly academic.
An Evening of Relaxation & Culinary Indulgence
Originally, we had planned to visit the National Tile Museum, but by 4:00 PM, exhaustion was setting in. Still, we started walking in that direction, hoping to push through. As we passed Santa Apolónia metro station, it became clear that we still had quite a ways to go. Instead of hopping on a bus or grabbing a taxi, we made the call to skip it.
The idea of a large, cold beer and a chance to sit back sounded much better than visiting another museum, so we headed back to Baixa, making our way to Rua Augusta. The street was bustling, full of tourists and locals going about their afternoon, and we spent some time people-watching, soaking in the lively energy of Lisbon’s city center.
After freshening up, we explored Baixa, searching for a crossbody bag for the next day’s trip to Sintra, no luck. As sunset approached, we made our way through the Arco da Rua Augusta, across the Praça do Comércio, then wandered along the Tagus River toward Cais do Sodré (Sodré's Wharf), passing couples who were enjoying the dusky glow.
Inside Time Out Market, we browsed its cafeteria-style restaurants, but craving a more intimate dining experience, we left. A small petisco restaurant caught our eye, where we indulged in Bacalhau à Brás and Pimentas de Padrón.
By 11:00 PM, we arrived back at the hotel, another full day of rich discoveries, incredible views, and unforgettable flavors.
As our second day in Lisbon came to an end, we reflected on the incredible experiences, historical sites, breathtaking views, delicious food, and spontaneous discoveries, that shaped our journey. From the ruins of Carmo Archaeological Museum to the hilltop fortress of Castelo de São Jorge, every step deepened our appreciation for the city's rich past and vibrant present. Whether exploring Fado’s soulful melodies or strolling through the lively streets of Baixa and Cais do Sodré, this day offered a perfect mix of culture, relaxation, and adventure. And the best part? Lisbon still has more to reveal.
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