Lisbon! Our Self-Guided Exploration & Evening Food Tour
- Charles Jordan
- Jun 8
- 9 min read
In This Article
Join us as we recount our first full day in Lisbon, covering everything from our early morning arrival to an immersive evening food tour in Alfama. Along the way, we’ll share:
Navigating Lisbon’s airport and transportation – How we used the metro and picked up our Lisboa Card
The Lisboa Card vs. Metro/Bus Day Pass – A look at whether the card is worth it for your trip
Morning exploration through historic neighborhoods – From Praça do Comércio to hidden gems in Alfama and Bairro Alto
Scenic viewpoints and landmarks – Including Castelo de São Jorge, Miradouro da Graça, and the Santa Justa Lift
Winding through local streets and discovering street art – Featuring our walk down Caracol da Graça and a friendly Lisbon cat
Experiencing Lisbon’s culinary scene – A deep dive into our food tour, where we tasted bifanas, bacalhau, pastéis de nata, and more
Final reflections on a packed but rewarding day – 30,142 steps later, we wrap up with insights and key takeaways
Whether you're planning your own Lisbon adventure or just want to experience it through our eyes, this guide will give you practical tips, cultural insights, and plenty of inspiration.
Airport Arrival
Our flight landed in Lisbon bright and early at 5:30 AM on May 14th. By the time we deplaned and got through passport control it was about 6:30. This was good timing because it’s when the metro opens. And, since we only had only had carryon luggage, we felt this would be the best way for us to get to our hotel to check our luggage and start our morning of exploration. The airport was easy to navigate and we appreciated that things were well marked. We decided to wait for the Ask Me Lisboa office to open at 7:00, while enjoying a cappuccino and reviewing our agenda for the day. Then we retrieved our Lisboa Card and were on our way.
Some Notes About the Lisboa Card
Is the Lisboa Card worth it? It’s a common question in Facebook travel groups, and for us, the answer was yes. It’s easy to purchase online before your trip and pick up at one of the Ask Me Lisboa locations, either at the airport or in the city.
That said, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, you can buy it from multiple websites, but if you don’t purchase through the official store (Visit Lisboa), your pickup location will be limited to those listed on your voucher. Make sure the pickup point works for your itinerary. Plus, buying directly from the official store ensures you’re getting the best price.
The Lisboa Card comes in 24-, 48-, and 72-hour options. The 72-hour card offers the best value if you’re staying longer than two days. Since we were in Lisbon for five days and wanted to use the card for four, we opted for both a 72-hour and 24-hour card—a setup that worked well for us.
For our first day (the one this article covers), we didn’t need the Lisboa Card. Instead, we just picked up a metro/bus day pass at the airport metro station for €7, which covered our transportation needs. If your plans don't include seeing the many museums and historic sites included on the Lisboa Card, this metro/bus day pass might be for you.
Morning and Early Afternoon Exploration
After leaving our stuff at the hotel, we headed to Praça do Comércio to start our exploration of the city. This was just a short walk from Campo das Cebolas where we were supposed to be by 10:00 AM. You see, we had planned to kick off our time in Lisbon with a free walking tour, hoping to get a structured introduction to the city. But as luck would have it, the tour was canceled due to low interest. So, with Google Maps as our guide and a sense of adventure leading the way, we set out on our own, walking through Lisbon’s winding streets, soaking in the city’s sights and energy.
It’s worth noting that our itinerary for the day was ambitious—we moved quickly between landmarks, navigating Lisbon’s hills and countless steps before slowing down at each stop to take it all in. While this approach worked for us, it may feel intense for some travelers. Those with limited mobility might consider tuk-tuks, trams, or guided tours to ease the experience while still enjoying Lisbon’s charm. That said, some places, like Murales Caracol de Graça, with its vibrant street art, aren’t accessible by vehicles, so the only way to experience them fully is on foot.
Morning Wandering Through Lisbon’s Hidden Gems
We started the day with a galão (coffee with milk), and pain au chocolat at Copenhagen Coffee Lab, because what’s a morning in Lisbon without great coffee? With Google Maps as our guide, we set out toward the National Pantheon, only to find the route blocked by construction. No big deal, Lisbon’s best surprises usually come from wandering.
This detour led us past Chafariz d’El-Rei, a historic fountain we hadn’t planned on seeing but couldn’t resist stopping to learn about. Built in the 13th century under King Dinis and later reconstructed in 1747, it was once a key water source for the city. Turns out, it even survived the 1755 earthquake!
Before making our way up to Miradouro da Graça, we passed by the entrance to Castelo de São Jorge, taking a moment to check out the line situation. The castle was on our agenda for a later day, so we didn’t go inside, but it was useful to see how busy it was. Instead, we continued exploring Alfama, navigating its narrow streets and checking out the surrounding area before moving on.
The climb up to Miradouro da Graça offered plenty of distractions. We ducked into Family Ceramics and Garbags, two small but memorable shops, the first showcasing gorgeous handmade pottery, the second filled with upcycled designs that put a creative spin on sustainability. Eventually, we reached the viewpoint, and the reward was spectacular: Castelo de São Jorge standing proud on the opposite hill, and the 25 de Abril Bridge stretching across the Tagus.
We descended from Miradouro da Graça via Caracol da Graça, where the winding path revealed a constantly evolving gallery of vibrant street art. We couldn’t resist snapping some photos, though they hardly do it justice, you really should see it for yourself. If you're visiting Lisbon, this walk is an absolute must in our opinion. Along the way, a friendly cat strolled past one of the painted walls, adding to the charm of this fascinating spot.
From there we made our way to Praça Martim Moniz, where the line for Tram 28 was already long. A hundred eager tourists were there, waiting patiently for the iconic ride through Lisbon’s historic streets.
From there, we made our way to Praça da Figueira, a lively square with its own distinct charm. As we walked through, we paused for a moment at the statue of Dom João I, standing tall as a reminder of Portugal’s storied past. Dom João I ruled Portugal from 1385 to 1433, securing the country’s independence from Castile after the Battle of Aljubarrota. His reign marked the beginning of Portugal’s Age of Exploration, and his alliance with England helped shape Europe’s longest-standing diplomatic partnership.
Continuing down Rua da Madalena, we passed a mix of traditional shops and cafés, the streets bustling with mid-morning energy. Nearing our destination, the queue forming outside As Bifanas do Afonso was hard to miss, people were already lining up well before noon, eager to get their hands on Lisbon’s classic bifana sandwich, a local favorite known for its simple yet flavorful marinated pork on a crusty roll.
Next, we headed to the Santa Justa Lift to see what it was all about. This towering metal structure offers a shortcut from Baixa to Bairro Alto, sparing visitors the steep climb on foot. As we made our way toward Praça de Luís de Camões, the Basílica dos Mártires caught our attention, the ceilings alone made it worth stepping inside.
From there, we wandered through Chiado and Bairro Alto, soaking in the energy before reaching another stunning lookout: Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, which framed Castelo de São Jorge from yet another striking angle.
One final stop in Praça dos Restauradores, one of our favorite plazas, gave us a moment to admire the Monument to the Restorers, a striking tribute to Portugal’s independence.
Then it was time for lunch at O Santo Antão, where we happily devoured pasteis de bacalhau (salt cod fritters), caldo verde (typical Portuguese soup with choriço), salada de polvo (octopus salad), and an ice-cold caneca (mug) of Sagres, simple, satisfying, and exactly what we needed.
It was finally time to check into our hotel. Check in time was 2:00 PM. So, we returned to our hotel to freshen. Soon, we’d be heading to Miradouro das Portas do Sol to meet our evening food tour.
A Taste of Portugal in Alfama
By afternoon, it was time to dive into Lisbon’s culinary scene with the Lisbon Small-Group Food Tour with 18 Tastings in Alfama District, booked through TripAdvisor. This wasn’t just a meal, it was a journey through Portuguese flavors and traditions, led by an incredibly knowledgeable guide who calls Alfama home.
Over the course of nearly four hours, we stopped at several cozy restaurants, each offering a different glimpse into Portugal’s food culture.
Among the restaurants were Restaurante Manjerico Alegre, Menina Sardinha Restaurante, and A Muralha. We sampled all sorts of incredible dishes, including:
Vinho Verde – Light, crisp, and refreshing green wine
Pastel de Bacalhau – Crispy codfish fritters, rich and flavorful (we had already tried this at lunch but these were even better)
Arroz com Tomate – Comforting tomato rice, simple yet satisfying
Sardinhas with Piquillo Peppers & Lemon Juice on Toasted Bread – Classic, fresh, and bursting with flavor (the sardines were from a tin and possibly the best tinned sardines we’ve had)
Bacalhau à Brás – Shredded codfish with eggs and potatoes (this became one our favorite dishes)
Four Cheeses with Tomato Jam – A perfect sweet and savory bite
Salada de Polvo – Tender octopus salad, beautifully seasoned (we had also had tried this at lunch)
Chouriço Ibérico “à Bombeiro”– Bold, smoky, and packed with flavor, prepared over flames in a special clay roasting dish (Aassador de Barro)
Prego – A classic Portuguese steak sandwich
Each stop was a delight, not just for the food but also for the camaraderie, we shared this experience with fellow travelers, swapping stories and recommendations as we ate and sipped.
As the tour wound past Chafariz d’El-Rei, we recognized it immediately, it was the fountain we had stumbled upon earlier in the day. Though, to be honest, if you didn’t already know it was a fountain, you’d never guess, it’s no longer operational and blends into the architecture. Our guide asked if anyone knew what it was, giving us the perfect chance to share what we had learned a few hours earlier.
A Sweet Ending
The tour wrapped up at a charming gift shop, where we were treated to Pasteis de Nata and Ginja de Óbidos in little chocolate cups, a strong, cherry-infused liqueur that perfectly capped off our culinary adventure. Our tour guide told us that the best pasteis de nata are still warm from the oven with crispy pastry, browned and glossy on the top. This tour was a highlight of our trip. It was the kind of experience that stays with you long after the last sip.
The tour ended near the Museu do Fado. From there we headed east to check out the Baixa neighborhood on our way to the Baixa-Chiado metro station. There were plenty of terrace restaurants and shops to browse along streets on both the Baixa and the Chiado sides of the metro station. Some of the streets worth finding are Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, Rua de São Nicolau, and the famous Rua Augusta, not to mention the grand Praça do Comercio and the area around Praça Luís de Camões (head north from there to Bairro Alto or south from there to Pink Street and Cais do Sodré).
A Perfect First Day
Reflecting on our first day, it felt like the ideal way to start our time in Lisbon. Lisbon is five hours ahead of our home time zone. So, with our 5:30 AM arrival, we had a long, jet-lagged day to power through. And we managed to do so, walking an incredible 30,142 steps before finally crawling into bed. The morning’s self-guided walk gave us a chance to discover the city on our own terms, while the evening food tour introduced us to its incredible flavors and warm hospitality. If this was just the beginning, we knew we had plenty more to look forward to.
コメント