Lisbon! Saturday Serendipity, Street Life, and Fado
- Charles Jordan
- Jul 21
- 9 min read
Updated: Aug 1
In This Article
A full Saturday in Lisbon, shaped by spontaneity and memorable stops.
National Pantheon - An unplanned, hour-long visit to this monumental tribute to Portuguese heroes
Feira da Ladra - A lively flea market with antiques, handmade leather goods, and casual refreshment stalls
Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral) - A walk through the city’s oldest church, blending Romanesque architecture with Moorish history
Bifanas at O Calhariz - A tasty sandwich and a mug of beer for €5
Ajuda Palace - A richly decorated 19th-century royal residence, explored over the course of an hour
Banksy Museum Lisbon - An dose of provocative street art inside a curated museum
Dinner and Fado in Chiado - Gourmet dining with an intimate Fado performance
Sporting Street Celebration - Late-night revelry as Sporting Lisbon fans flooded the streets after a title-clinching victory
Morning Departure and a Change of Plans
We left our hotel at around 9:00 AM, catching the blue line metro to Santa Apolónia and beginning the steep uphill walk toward Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s famous flea market. Just before reaching the square, we spotted the National Pantheon, a monument we’d tried to visit earlier in the week but couldn’t access due to road construction near Baixa. With time to spare and just a short line at the entrance, we decided to seize the moment.
Is the National Pantheon Worth a Visit?
Entry to the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) was free with our Lisboa Card. It also allowed us to skip the short line and we were inside just after 9:30 AM. The building was immaculately kept, with gleaming stone surfaces and a quiet, reverent atmosphere. Standing in the center beneath the dome was a real treat and we took a moment to snap this photo before exploring the rest of the monument. Originally designed as the Church of Santa Engrácia and completed centuries later, the Pantheon now serves as the resting place for some of Portugal’s most revered figures, including poet Camões, fado legend Amália Rodrigues, and football icon Eusébio. We climbed something like 130 shallow marble steps to reach a rooftop terrace with sweeping views of the Tagus River and Lisbon’s historic quarters - a stunning reward for the detour.
Refocusing on Lisbon
This unplanned half-hour visit turned out to be a pivotal moment in the day. Our original plan had included a trip to the Cristo Rei statue across the river, but the logistics of traveling to Almada, combined with the time needed for lunch and return transport, would’ve cut deeply into our afternoon in Lisbon. Instead, we revised our itinerary on the spot and chose to keep our day centered within the city, a decision that made room for several unexpected highlights still to come. We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to Lisbon and will make time to do a proper visit to Almada the next time we go.
What is the Feira da Ladra?
Set along Campo de Santa Clara behind São Vicente de Fora, the Feira da Ladra is Lisbon’s long-running flea market, held every Tuesday and Saturday. Dating back to 1272, it mixes local tradition with lively urban energy. Stalls range from used books and retro records to handmade crafts, vintage lamps, and original artworks. You’ll find both new and second-hand clothing, shoes, and leather goods, along with functional home pieces and a few creative surprises, like rewired vintage fixtures with custom glass.
We picked up a handcrafted black leather messenger bag that served us well throughout the trip, but do bring cash, as the vendors we purchased from didn’t accept cards. Toward the lower end of the market, snack stands and casual cafés offer refreshments, making it easy to linger, browse, and take in the neighborhood’s laid-back vibe.
What to Know and Look for When Exploring Lisbon’s Cathedral
After browsing the stalls at Feira da Ladra, we took the metro to Baixa-Chiado, emerging into Lisbon’s lively downtown before walking over to the Sé de Lisboa, the city’s cathedral and oldest church. Built in 1147, shortly after the Christian reconquest, it was designed by Mestre Roberto in the Romanesque style, with a Latin cross layout and tripartite apse. Over the centuries, seismic events and stylistic changes left their mark, most notably the 1755 earthquake, which damaged much of the Gothic chancel and south tower. Later renovations added Baroque, then Neo-Romanesque elements. (source: https://bit.ly/4lIqhR6, downloaded 7/20/2025)
In the Cathedral you'll find a statue of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus. The cathedral is officially dedicated to Saint Mary Major, and Marian devotion has been central to its identity since its founding in 1147. The placement of the statue near stained glass and candles reinforces its role as a focal point for prayer and reflection.
Another notable feature is the round stained glass window of the façade. This rose-shaped window dates back to the 13th century. It survived the devastating 1755 earthquake, though it was later restored using fragments of the original glass. The current design, crafted in the 1930s by the Ricardo Leone factory, depicts Christ the Savior surrounded by the Twelve Apostles, arranged in a symmetrical, circular pattern that evokes both spiritual unity and architectural harmony.
Beneath the window stands a statue of Saint Mary Major, the patron saint of the cathedral. Sculpted by Anjos Teixeira in 1909, she’s shown in a graceful, contemplative pose, anchoring the space with a sense of maternal reverence and divine protection. Together, the rose window and statue form a visual and symbolic axis, light above, devotion below, that reflects the cathedral’s layered history and spiritual resonance. (MS CoPilot, July 20, 2025)
A statue of Saint Sebastian also caught our attention. Saint Sebastian is venerated as a protector against plagues and is a symbol of resilience and spiritual endurance. His presence in the Sé de Lisboa reflects the cathedral’s devotional history, where saints associated with healing and protection were prominently honored.
Discover the Hidden Highlights of Sé de Lisboa Cathedral
While the Sé’s soaring nave and iconic rose window draw the eye, it’s the quieter chapels that reveal Lisbon’s layered spiritual and artistic heritage. Explore the Gothic ambulatory for sculpted tombs of noble patrons like Lopo Fernandes Pacheco and Maria Villalobos, whose 14th-century effigies embody medieval reverence. The Chapel of St. Ildephonse showcases a unique clay nativity by Joaquim Machado de Castro, fusing biblical storytelling with Portuguese craftsmanship. Nearby, the understated Chapel of Bartholomew Joanes offers architectural simplicity steeped in historical significance. These intricate details invite visitors to step beyond the altar and uncover the cathedral’s deeper narratives. (source: informational videos inside the Cathedral, May 17, 2025)
With the Lisboa Card, we received a 25% discount, and the visit offered a reflective moment before heading toward Ajuda.
Finding the Bus to Ajuda
To reach the Ajuda Palace, we sought out Bus 760, which we thought departed from Praça do Comércio. Turns out, it leaves from a nearby side street: face the arch, walk right, then take your first left. We'd missed one bus but opted to wait for the next, scheduled in 20 minutes. Due to traffic, a common issue on Lisbon's narrow streets, it arrived 15 minutes late. In hindsight, a rideshare or taxi might’ve saved time, but with congestion building up, we waited it out.
A Well-Earned Lunch
After arriving in Ajuda just past 1:00 PM, we realized we hadn’t eaten all day. We searched for a local bite and ended up walking downhill toward the water, eventually spotting Café O Calhariz Bifanas da Ajuda, modest, a little rough around the edges, but promising. We took a seat at a pink terrace table in the shade and ordered simply: uma bifana e uma cerveja grande. The bifana, a Lisbon classic, didn’t disappoint. Thin pork slices simmered in white wine, garlic, and paprika, tucked into a crusty roll and served with yellow mustard. It was the kind of meal that’s better than its parts when hunger and atmosphere collide.
Inside the Ajuda Palace
Refueled, we walked uphill to the Palácio Nacional da Ajuda, a vast neoclassical palace perched uphill from Belém. Construction began in 1796 on the site of a temporary royal residence built after the 1755 earthquake, but political instability, economic constraints, and artistic redesigns delayed completion into the late 19th century. Various architects left their imprint, shifting the palace from Baroque-Rococo ideals to Neoclassical grandeur.
During the reign of King Luís I and Queen Maria Pia of Savoy, the palace became the official royal residence. Many rooms reflect their vision of modern comfort and courtly opulence, housing collections of jewelry, tapestries, furniture, glassware, paintings, and more, including works by prominent artists including one of our favorites, El Greco. One highlight is the banquet hall, a cavernous space with seating for 180, where court events and state dinners once unfolded. We stood there almost alone in this massive space, contemplating the dinners that were held here; what the attendees might have worn and the conversations that were had.
Beyond the grand Banquet Hall, Ajuda Palace reveals a more personal elegance through rooms that reflect daily life and quiet intimacy. The Cuarto de D. Luís I (King D. Luís I’s Bedroom) and the Cuarto da Cama da Rainha (Queen’s Bedroom), along with her refined Casa de Banho da Rainha (Queen’s Bathroom), speak to a restrained royal routine shaped by comfort and symbolism. Queen Maria Pia’s artistic flair comes through in the Sala Azul (Blue Room) and Sala Cor-da-Rosa (Rose-Colored Room), while the Sala de Música (Music Room) adds emotional warmth with echoes of cello and song. Even the Salinha dos Cães (Dog Room) brings unexpected charm, underscoring the monarchs’ more private affections.
The palace’s ceremonial core unfolds around the Sala do Trono (Throne Room), a dramatic space of red silk, twin thrones, and allegorical ceiling paintings designed to impress and affirm authority. Formality continues in rooms dedicated to diplomatic choreography: the Sala do Corpo Diplomático (Diplomatic Corps Room) and its adjacent Sala das Senhoras do Corpo Diplomático (Ladies’ Diplomatic Corps Room) offer distinct moods shaped by protocol and prestige. Transitional areas like the Sala Grande de Espera (Grand Waiting Room) and Sala do Despacho (Dispatch Room) guided the flow of audiences, blending practical governance with symbolic decor. Together, these spaces trace a narrative of monarchy, where power, reception, and refinement coexisted behind closed doors.
Depending on your pace, you could spend 45 minutes to an hour and a half exploring.
Homeward and Onward
Serendipity favored us again: a bus from the palace’s stop connected directly to our hotel. With traffic still heavy, it wasn’t swift, but it gave our legs a break and a chance to reflect. Our adventures were starting to catch up with us and we started to nod off a few times during the bus ride. As an aside, the following day we did a day trip to Cascais and Belém and realized that we were again rather close to Ajuda. So, you could take the train from Cais do Sodre to Belém and walk 15 minutes uphill to the Ajuda Palace. Or, just plan to spend a whole day in Belém and include the Ajuda Palace as part of the day's itinerary.
Is the Banksy Museum in Lisbon Worth Visiting?
After a short rest and freshening up at our hotel, we walked to the Banksy Museum, near the Parque metro station, for a quick immersion in provocative street art. The works held our attention, clever, biting, and visually memorable, making it a well-spent half hour. One wall confronted visitors with a raw textual message: “It’s a very frustrating feeling you get when the only people who photos of your work are the police department.” A piece with a flower-bearing figure beneath a neon “HUSTLER CLUB” sign contrasted tenderness with exploitation. Another showed a tranquil landscape, lush greenery and a wooden bridge (think Monet), disrupted by tipped shopping carts and a traffic cone, suggesting consumer waste intruding on nature. Together, they packed more commentary into thirty minutes than many full-length exhibitions.
Dinner, Fado, and a Midnight Walk
While planning our trip we made reservations at two places for dinner and a Fado performance. We booked Senhora do Fado in Chiado and Adega Machado in Bairro Alto. We chose to book them on the fourth evening of our trip so that we could scope them out and decide which reservation to keep. On our first evening in Lisbon we did our reconnaissance. Both appealed, but we kept our original reservation at Senhora do Fado. Was it the right call? We can't really say because we only went to one of the two places. What we can do is recommend Senhora do Fado. The prix-fixe menu, with couvert and three courses, was thoughtfully presented. Service was warm, and the fado performances were mesmerizing. In some ways the Fado vocals reminded us of the Cante Hondo performances we had witnessed over the years in Spain.
After dinner, we chose to walk back to the hotel because our dinner was much more indulgent than usual. Google said 55 minutes; we figured we could make it in 45, knowing the terrain. We were on track until we approached Marquês de Pombal, where Sporting Lisbon fans flooded the streets in celebration. The plaza and surrounding streets were blocked, so we rerouted and adjusted, still arriving in 55 minutes.
Walking at night in Lisbon — especially through central districts — feels safe and alive. Terraces buzzed, and we passed countless moments of local joy. It was a fitting close to a somewhat spontaneous, Saturday adventure, the kind that lingers well beyond your stay.
Our Saturday in Lisbon unfolded with a kind of quiet magic — guided more by curiosity than by schedule. From flea markets and hilltop monuments to hidden cafés, palace halls, and the soul-stirring strains of fado, the day wove together street life, serendipity, and culture in all the ways that make Lisbon unforgettable. It's a city that rewards the wanderer, welcomes the detour, and reminds you to savor the moments between the map points.
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