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- What Is Dos de Mayo? The Story Behind Madrid's Most Important Holiday
El Dos de Mayo (The Second of May 1808), by Goya (cropped; on display at the Prado museum) Many Americans treat Cinco de Mayo as little more than an excuse for a margarita, and it's easy to assume that Spain and Mexico share the same foods, holidays, and traditions. After all, Spanish is spoken in both countries. But the two cultures diverged centuries ago, when Spain colonized what is now Mexico, and their histories have followed very different paths ever since. Nowhere is that clearer than with Dos de Mayo, one of the most significant dates in the history of Madrid and a public holiday in the region to this day. Planning a trip to Madrid for Dos de Mayo? Get our step-by-step 5-day itinerary, including day trips to Toledo and Segovia. A Brief History of Dos de Mayo By 1807, Napoleon's France had set its sights on the Iberian Peninsula. Lisbon fell first. French forces swept through Spain (then a French ally) and occupied Portugal in November of that year. But the appetite for conquest didn't stop there. In February 1808, France turned on its own ally and invaded Spain, eventually seizing Madrid itself. El Tres de Mayo (The Third of May 1808), by Goya Weeks of simmering tension finally boiled over on May 2nd, when the people of Madrid rose up against their occupiers. The French crushed the rebellion swiftly and brutally. On May 3rd, captured rebels were rounded up and publicly massacred near the Calle de Alcalá, by La Puerta del Sol. It was a horrific act of repression, but it backfired. Rather than extinguishing resistance, the massacre ignited it. The Dos de Mayo uprising became the spark that set off a years-long war of independence. Napoleon installed his brother Joseph Bonaparte on the Spanish throne, but Joseph's reign was always contested. He held power only until 1813, when Ferdinand VII finally reclaimed the crown. Whatever Happened to Joseph Bonaparte? As for Joseph Bonaparte, his story took a surprising turn after Spain. After Napoleon's empire collapsed, he fled to the United States, briefly settling in Philadelphia before purchasing an estate called Point Breeze in Bordentown, New Jersey, in 1816. In Philadelphia, his house became a center of activity for French émigrés, and he lived under the alias Comte de Survilliers. He remained in the area until 1832, receiving intellectuals and political figures at his New Jersey estate. Napoleon Empire It's a remarkable footnote: the man Napoleon made King of Spain spent nearly two decades living quietly just outside Philadelphia. Update: The 2026 reenactment of the Dos de Mayo uprising is scheduled for Saturday, May 2nd. The official program has now been published by the Community of Madrid (note: the site is in Spanish only). All events are free, subject to capacity. Pasacalles (parade) of historical reenactors | Noon–12:30 PM | Departs Metro Banco de España, along Calle Alcalá to Puerta del Sol | Metro: Banco de España (Line 2) Reenactment of "¡Que se los llevan!" (the seizure of the royal family at the Palace) | 1:00–1:45 PM | Puerta del Sol | Metro: Sol (Lines 1, 2, 3) Reenactment of the Defense of the Monteleón Artillery Barracks | 6:00 PM | Explanada de Puente del Rey | Metro: Príncipe Pío (Lines 6, 10, R) For the full festival program including concerts and other events, visit www.madrid.org/fiestasdel2demayo/2026 (Spanish only). Have you ever attended a historical reenactment? Share your thoughts in the comments!
- Celebrating San Isidro in Madrid – Updated for 2026 (May 15)
Chulapos dancing the Chotis Celebrating San Isidro in Madrid If you're traveling to Madrid during the first half of May, you're in for a treat! The feast of Madrid's patron saint, San Isidro, is on May 15th and during the days leading up to it you'll get to see locals getting into the spirit. NOTE: The official schedule for 2026 is not yet available. We chatted online with the folks at SanIsidro.com, asking when it would be. They said there wasn't a firm date, but that the official schedule would be available a couple of weeks in advance of the events. Check back here after May 4, 2026 for an update. This is now the date they plan to release the full event schedule. Click here to get the Essential 5‑Day Itinerary & Travel Guide — the exact plan I use to help travelers experience the city at its best. The Chotis The photo above is of Chulapos dancing the Chotis. The Chotis a customary dance in Madrid. During the first half of May each year you might have the good fortune to see Chulapos performing it in some of the more central plazas such as the Plaza de Oriente, La Puerta del Sol, and the Plaza Mayor. What are Chulapos? Chulapos are people dressed in the outfits typically worn by the people in the Malasaña neighborhood of Madrid at the beginning of the 19th century. Back then, citizens of Madrid dressed differently depending on the neighborhood where they grew up and lived. The most traditional classes, proud of their situation in society, sought to differentiate themselves from the French social elite (very present in the society of the time) whom they despised. This is when the identity of the current madrileño (Madrid native) really started to be established. A series of typical characters emerged, with very marked differences depending on where they were from in Madrid. Among them were the Chulapos of the Malasaña neighborhood. And the Chulapo eventually came to be representative of the whole city. Patron Saints In Spain and other countries, cities and towns have patron saints. The patron saint is chosen as the protector of the locality. The choice of patron saint is often based on some presumed relationship. Madrid's patron saint is San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore the Laborer). When speaking about the annual festivities, it is often shortened to just San Isidro. According to Wikipedia, Isidore the Laborer "was a Spanish farmworker known for his piety toward the poor and animals. He is the Catholic patron saint of farmers, and of Madrid..." and his feast day is celebrated on May 15th. Isidore was born near Madrid into poverty and eventually worked as a farm laborer. In this role he was witnessed performing various miracles which you can read more about on Wikipedia. Typical San Isidro Cuisine Rosquillas Traditional festival doughnuts in four styles—tontas, listas, Santa Clara, and francesas—sold across bakeries and San Isidro stalls. Limonada Madrileña A light Madrid‑style wine punch made with wine, lemon, sugar, cinnamon, and chopped fruit, served throughout May. Cocido Madrileño A hearty chickpea stew offered by many tabernas during the festivities as a classic midday meal. Pradera Street Foods Bocadillos de calamares, tortilla wedges, chorizo or morcilla sandwiches, and patatas bravas served at festival stands. Barquillos Crisp rolled wafers sold by traditional barquilleros, a nostalgic San Isidro staple. Regional Snacks Manchego, jamón, cecina, and other local cheeses and cured meats featured at pop‑up stands and markets. Torrijas Torrijas are a classic Madrid sweet made from milk‑soaked bread that’s lightly fried and finished with sugar, honey, or cinnamon. They’re usually associated with spring, so you’ll see them everywhere in May – bakeries, cafés, and even temporary festival stalls. They’re simple, comforting, and one of the easiest traditional treats to try during the celebrations. San Isidro Celebration Although you will be able to see evidence of the festivities all over the city, officially organized events will unfold primarily at the Matadero Madrid, la Plaza Mayor, la Pradera de San Isidro, and Vistillas gardens. There are many things planned this and every year, including more than 50 free musical concerts and typical foods. You can find more specifics here and at the official site which is in Spanish (the official schedule of events is generally not available in it's entirety until early May. One thing we hope you get to see other than the Chotis being performed are the Gigantes y Cabezudos (Processional Giants with big heads, photos above). In 2025 it was held on May 10th at 11:30 AM. Following is from the official brochure (translated from Spanish): San Isidro Schedule 2025 To be updated for 2026 when details are available Pregón (official opening) What: Official pregón from Plaza de la Villa (Dani Carvajal) When: 8 May, 18:30 Where: Plaza de la Villa Getting there: Metro Ópera; walk through Madrid Antiguo Gigantes y Cabezudos – Street parade What: Parade of giants and big‑headed figures (Madrid Antiguo route) When: 10 May, 11:30 (departure) — arrival ~14:00 Where: Departure Plaza de la Villa → Calle de los Señores de Luzón → Plazuela de Santiago → Calle de Santiago → Plaza de Oriente → Calle Bailén → Calle Mayor → Calle del Sacramento → Plaza de Puerta Cerrada → Plaza Segovia Nueva → Calle de Toledo → Calle de López Silva → Museum of Arts and Traditions Getting there: Metro Ópera; follow on foot through the historic centre La Pradera – family activities and headline concerts What: Daytime workshops and family programming; nightly concerts When / Notable acts: 3 May, 20:30 Madrid Melocos; 3 May, 22:00 Carlos Baute; 9 May, 20:30 Kokoshca; 9 May, 22:00 OBK; 15 May, 20:30 Modestia Aparte; 15 May, 22:30 Los Manolos Where: Pradera de San Isidro (Paseo de la Ermita del Santo) Getting there: Metro Marqués de Vadillo or Carpetana; arrive early for family slots Plaza Mayor – castizo concerts and popular music What: Evening concerts and traditional programming When / Notable acts: 9 May, 20:00 Ángeles Toledano; 9 May, 21:30 Amistades Peligrosas (30th anniversary) Where: Plaza Mayor Getting there: Metro Sol; pedestrian access and security checks Las Vistillas – indie, folk and DJ sets What: Alternative concerts, DJ sets and evening programming When / Notable acts: 9 May, 20:30 Amor Líquido; 10 May, 22:00 Nusar3000; 11 May, 21:00 Soleá Morente Where: Las Vistillas (Puerta de Toledo) Getting there: Metro Puerta de Toledo Matadero – verbenas and family zones What: Orchestras, verbenas and family activities; gastronomic area When: Nightly programming during the festival (dates and lineups vary) Where: Matadero Madrid Getting there: Metro Legazpi Religious rites and procession What: Quinary, masses and the solemn procession with images of San Isidro and Santa María de la Cabeza When: Quinary and religious acts during the week; 15 May – Solemn Mass 10:00 and procession 19:00 (check official program for final timings) Where: Real Colegiata de San Isidro and central procession route Getting there: On foot from Plaza Mayor / La Latina Closing fireworks What: Nighttime pyrotechnic show to close the festivities When: 15 May, night (official launch sites listed in program) Getting there: Use public transport; expect heavy crowds after the show If you found this article interesting and helpful, you'll also want to read our article about sacred spaces in Madrid. Have you been in Madrid for this celebration? Drop us a comment and let us know or tell us about your most treasured memory of Madrid.
- Thomas Houseago’s Giant Sculptures Take Over a Secret Madrid Garden
Some stories pull you in before you even realize it. This is one of them. Imagine walking down Calle Castelló, a quiet, elegant street in Madrid’s Salamanca district. You pass polished facades, cafés humming with conversation, and then something unexpected appears. A private garden. Closed to the public for a century. And for one season only, the gates swing open. Inside the garden : seven monumental sculptures by Thomas Houseago rising between the trees. This is the kind of Madrid moment travelers dream about but rarely stumble into. Here’s the full lowdown so you don’t miss it. What’s happening For the first time in its 100 year history, the Banca March Garden is opening to the public. To mark the anniversary, the space will host Thomas Houseago. Sculptures. Jardín Banca March, an outdoor exhibition featuring seven massive works by the internationally known artist. Houseago’s style is raw, oversized, and deeply human. Seeing these pieces in a lush, secluded garden instead of a museum gives the whole experience a sense of discovery. When you can visit The garden will be open from May 1 to October 30, 2026. This is a limited, one season window. Once it closes, the garden returns to private life. Where it is Calle Castelló 75, Madrid Neighborhood: Salamanca Garden size: 1,600 square meters of greenery, paths, and quiet corners that feel worlds away from the city. If you’re coming from the Puerta de Alcalá entrance of Retiro Park , the walk takes about 10 to 12 minutes and covers roughly 800 to 900 meters through elegant residential streets. If you start at Plaza de Colón, it’s even closer. Expect 7 to 9 minutes on foot, about 600 to 700 meters, following a simple route along Goya and Castelló. Why this matters Madrid doesn’t often reveal its private spaces. When it does, it’s usually brief and unforgettable. This exhibition blends three things the city does best: • Art that feels alive • Architecture and nature in harmony • A sense of privilege, like you’ve been let in on a secret If you’re in Madrid this year, this is one of those “tell your friends you were there” moments. How to get there The garden sits in one of the most accessible parts of the city. • Metro: Velázquez (Line 4) is the closest stop. • Bus: Several lines run along Calle Serrano and Calle Goya. • On foot:• From Puerta de Alcalá: 10 to 12 minutes • From Plaza de Colón: 7 to 9 minutes • Taxi or ride apps: Just give the driver “Calle Castelló 75.” Once you arrive, look for the discreet entrance. The magic is on the other side.



