Madrid! Plaza Mayor Edition
- Jul 22
- 5 min read
My First Visit to the Plaza Mayor of Madrid
It was the end of summer in 1986 when I first walked through one of the archways into the Plaza Mayor of Madrid. I was instantly in awe of this place. It has a stunning appearance of archways and balconied walls leading up to beautiful towers in a very Spanish style. The red color of the walls is very warm, making this massive square feel very inviting. It's not surprising that it's one of the centers of activity in the city and has been for centuries. In its early days it was a place where you might see bullfights, or even public executions. Now it is home to restaurants with outdoor terrace seating and typical gift shops. Dining or enjoying a beverage at these terraces is time well spent, in my opinion.
I remember going there for the first time. We walked west on Calle Mayor, the road that forms the south side of la Puerta del Sol and heads toward the Royal Palace. We took the first left onto Calle de Esparteros and then immediately right onto the pedestrian Calle de Postas, and continued into the northeast archway of the plaza via Calle de la Sal. I have followed this path countless times over the years. Every time I walk through that archway it almost takes my breath away. Along this path are restaurants, souvenir shops and the like. I am pretty sure I got my first bocadillo de calamares (calamari sandwich) at Bar Postas found on the south side of the road by the same name. You can go there today and the sandwich is the same as it was four decades ago.
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Very Brief History of the Plaza Mayor
First opened in 1620, the stunning Plaza Mayor of Madrid is in the Herrerian style of architecture, which is characterized by strict geometry with square shapes and lack of adornment. This was apparently the official architecture of the Hapsburg monarchy under Felipe II. Other examples of this architecture are the Alcázar of Toledo and the El Escorial monastery; both of which are easy day trips from Madrid. The original construction was completed during the reign of Felipe III whose statue is in the center of the plaza.
Casa de la Panadería
The northern façade is the fresco-painted Casa de la Panadería (pictured above). Originally serving as the main bakery of the city, it dates to 1590 and the façade has always had frescos. The current frescos are from 1992 when they were restored. They are the works of Carlos Franco and depict the zodiac and mythological figures. Today it houses the Madrid Tourist Board and the Madrid Tourism Center.
Casa de la Carnicería
Opposite the Casa de la Panadería on the south side of the plaza is the Casa de la
Carnicería (pictured here). It was about 1631 when the current structure was rebuilt to match the style of the Casa de la Panadería after the original structure had burned in a fire. This building was originally part of the meat distribution system of Madrid. It now houses the Pestana Plaza Mayor, a 90-room boutique hotel. The hotel has restaurants, and meeting spaces. Its guest rooms are of modern design and some rooms look into the plaza. As of this writing, the Michelin guest score is 18.4 on a scale of 20.
King Felipe III on Horseback
Look closely at the bronze figure in the center of the plaza and you'll find more going on than a simple royal likeness. Felipe III sits in half armor with a wide ruff collar at his neck, the Order of the Golden Fleece hanging at his chest, a baton of command in one hand and the horse's reins in the other. The horse itself is caught mid-stride, one front leg raised, and if you look at the girth strap you'll find the signature of Pietro Tacca, who completed the work after the original sculptor, Giambologna, died before finishing it.
The granite base beneath the statue is worth a look too. It's decorated with vegetal moldings, triglyphs, and laurel leaves, and on either side you'll find two allegorical plaques depicting war trophies in relief. On the front is a heraldic carving showing the combined coats of arms of the Royal House and the City of Madrid, set on a carved leather cartouche and topped with the royal crown. On the back, a plaque in bronze lettering commemorates the statue's placement here.
The statue itself started out somewhere else entirely, in the gardens of the Casa de Campo, where it stood for over two hundred years before Queen Isabel II had it moved here in 1848, the same move commemorated on that rear plaque.
Location of the Plaza Mayor Noting Nearby Dining Establishments of Note
There are nine archways leading into the plaza and outside of them lie streets full of bars and restaurants. Three of them head north back onto the Calle Mayor. If you head through the northwest archway you will find the magnificent Mercado de San Miguel. It was originally a traditional market but now is more of a food hall, with tapas bars and other dining and drinking establishments. Like the Atocha train station, this is one of Madrid's few modernist iron structures. From there, heading south along Cava de San Miguel you will find the Mesones, traditional bars, each with their own specialty, among them are Meson del Champiñon (mushroom), Meson de la Tortilla (a wonderful Spanish potato and egg omelette), and Meson de la Guitarra, to name a few. From there you can take a sharp left and go up the steps and through the archway back into the Plaza Mayor or continue south. If you choose the former, you will pass Las Cuevas de Luís Candelas, one of Madrid's most traditional restaurants, dating back to the early 1800s (4-star rating on Trip Advisor). If you decide to continue down Cava de San Miguel you will soon arrive at Restaurante Botín, another traditional restaurant (4.3-star rating in Trip Advisor). Opening in 1725, and according to the Guinness Book of World Records is the oldest restaurant in the world!
Mercado de San Miguel, Tapas! Mercado de San Miguel, Tapas! Mercado de San Miguel Interior Mercado de San Miguel, Tapas!
Another of the southern archways goes down Calle de Toledo. Along the way you will find souvenir shops, ice cream and even a Five Guys if you are in the mood for an American hamburger and fries. You can continue south on Calle de Toledo to the La Latina neighborhood full of traditional bars and restaurants and home of the giant flea market "El Rastro" held each Sunday from 9AM to 3PM.
Exiting the southeast corner you emerge onto Calle Botoneras with a few bars and on to Calle Imperial where you will find the entrance to the hotel Pestana Plaza Mayor mentioned earlier. And the three archways on the east all take you to more bars and restaurants. They are Calle de Gerona, Calle de Zaragoza, and Calle de la Sal where we entered the plaza. Honestly, no matter the seemingly millions of times I've crossed this plaza, when I'm trying to return to a certain place I get a little confused but I usually pick the right exit on the first try. If not, I'm sure to find more fabulous sites and sounds and can easily reroute having taken a new path.
In short, no visit to Madrid would be complete without a visit to this beautiful plaza. The photos don't do it justice. And with all there is to see and do and taste in and around this magical place, you will visit more than once.
What did you learn while reading this article that most captured your attention? Have you been to Madrid? If so, what is your favorite memory?
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