Lisbon! Cascais and Belém Travel Guide
- Charles Jordan
- May 28
- 18 min read
Updated: May 29
Lisbon, Our Cascais and Belém Travel Guide
Planning our day trip to Cascais and Belém
While planning our Lisbon adventure, we had read somewhere that you could fit both Belém and Cascais into one day trip. We had also seen tours available that included both Sintra and Cascais. Since we had already made a detailed plan to do a day trip to Sintra on our own that didn’t include Cascais, we decided to do a combined Belém and Cascais trip. We only had five days total in the Lisbon area, and we knew we be challenged to see all the sites in central Lisbon in just three days. With a full day devoted to Sintra, we were left with one day to see these other two places.
Using the Comboios de Portugal App to Plan
We used the Comboios de Portugal app to plan our trip. We did this before we left for Lisbon. It was very easy to use. Comboios de Portugal is the Portuguese train company. You can download the app if you plan to use the train during your visit. We tried Trainline first. But it doesn't seem to cover this regional rail line. The trains are very easy to use, and we’ll provide some details about our experience using them on this trip later in the article. Note: we still can't figure out how to switch the language of the app to English. So we just used it in Portuguese. Be on the lookout for a future blog article we're planning to write about how to use this app.
Using the app, we researched the train times. We decided to try to take the 8:40 train from Cais de Sodré to Cascais. Knowing this, we backed into a 7:45 departure time from our hotel (we stayed a little away from the historic center near the São Sebastião metro station). We were a little late leaving our hotel (7:55). But we still made it to the train with ten minutes to spare. The train signage in the Cais do Sodré metro station isn’t great for those who don’t speak at least a little Portuguese. The most critical signs only say “Comboios” with a train icon. Comboios means trains in Portuguese. So, just make a mental note of this for when you go.
What to expect at the Cais do Sodré Train Station
Approaching the turnstiles to the train station, you can see the marquee indicating line two for Cascais (at least that was the line when we went, just follow what the marquee says). Head up the escalator for that line and make sure you get on the train on that line, the destination wasn’t marked on the platform. But if the timing seems right, it’s the right train. We got there ten minutes ahead and the train was there waiting. Above the doors on the train there are schematics showing the stops along the route.
On the Train to Cascais
Above each of the doors on the train there is a schematic showing the stops along the way. If you decide to see Belém in the morning and Cascais in the afternoon (assuming you squeeze it into one day), you get off at Belém and then return to the station to head to Cascais. As it happens, Cascais is the end of the line. So, if you’re doing just Cascais, you just take it to the last stop. You may want to sit on the left side of the train on your way from Cais do Sodré and on the right side of the train on your way back. This way you’ll be better able to witness the stunning ocean views along the way.
Between the Cruz Quebrada and Caxias stations, there were people walking and jogging on a path along the coast. And as we went through Estoril station, just a couple stops before Cascais, we caught a glimpse of a tower fortification. Upon returning home we did a little research and found that it was Forte de Santo António da Barra, a 17th century coastal fortification. For perspective, it was built about two centuries after the Belém Tower.
At the Cascais Train Station
We arrived as planned at about 9:30. Back in the day when we studied abroad in Spain, we would do excursions with our school. They were always n tour buses, and we would occasionally make rest stops to freshen up. One of our professors who led the excursions referred to these stops as “para pipis,” a sort of play on words in Spanish. Anyway, these stops are important! Once you leave the station you may not have a convenient opportunity. We found the restrooms and paid the 50-euro cents to go in (we were able to get change right there). Incidentally, this is one of several reasons to always carry a bit of the local currency when traveling.
From the train station we made our way into town. With one earbud in, we let Google Maps provide turn by turn instructions. This is a helpful trick because it allows you to take in the sites along the way, making stops when you see something interesting. Adventures are immensely better when you can enjoy the scenery and watch life unfold. The souvenir shops were just opening as we passed and made our way through town to the Marina. If you don't have earbuds or a handy map app, you just go to the left as you're leaving the train station, then take the second exit from the roundabout onto the pedestrian street lined with shops.
An interesting statue of a woman searching or gazing across the ocean at the corner of the main town beach, Ribeira Beach (Praia da Rebeira), caught our attention. This important sculpture commemorated 500 years of Portuguese exploration and discoveries, reminding us of the co
untry's maritime heritage. (chat with MS CoPilot, May 18, 2025)
Breakfast (and Other Dining Options) at the Marina
The Marina is beyond the citadel and there you’ll find shopping and dining options. We had read about a place called Kafeine. And this is what we put in our map app as we departed the train station. We walked past several restaurants along the way and eventually arrived. The menu was comprehensive, with breakfast items for everyone. We had a large latte and a yogurt parfait. Both were perfect. The staff were pleasant, and the service was perfect. They even had QR codes on the table, allowing you to view and pay your check (then let them know so they can verify that the transaction went through). If you happen to be here at other times of the day, you can do shopping, enjoy a meal at one of the various restaurants, or just sit looking at the boats docked in the Marina and the sea beyond.
The Citadel and the Citadel Palace
After breakfast we went to the Citadel and then the Citadel Palace. When we were planning out trip, we really didn’t know what to expect at the Citadel. It’s a seaside fortification with a palace inside. Besides the palace, there are a few art galleries (one is within the grounds of the palace), and a terrace restaurant. We knew we wanted to visit to the Palace. So, when planning for this day trip, we looked at the hours online, without reading the details. We learned on arrival that they only offer scheduled guided tours, because it is an official residence of the President of Portugal. The tours are either in Portuguese or in English depending on the time of day. Also, the Palace is not open to the public at all on Mondays and Tuesdays.
During the tour you'll learn quite a bit about the palace, who had it built, the generations of royals who resided there, stories about them and its current use. The royal palace area within the citadel was adapted in the 19th century by King Luís I, who transformed it into a summer retreat for the Portuguese royal family. From Luís I onward, the palace became a seasonal residence for the monarchy.
The last king to occupy the Citadel Palace was King Carlos I of Portugal. He was known for his passion for oceanography, establishing Portugal’s first marine biology laboratory inside the Citadel. His reign was marked by political instability, economic challenges, and tensions with republican movements, which ultimately led to his assassination in 1908.
Carlos I had several noteworthy friendships, including with Prince Albert I of Monaco, who was also deeply interested in oceanography. Their shared enthusiasm for marine studies fostered a strong intellectual connection. He also maintained diplomatic relationships with European monarchs, though his reign was troubled by internal conflicts within Portugal.
We lucked out and they had room in the 11:30 tour and it was in English. This was only 15 minutes after we had planned to do the tour. Note that the tour must be reserved, and you can do it by texting on WhatsApp. The reservations numbers on their brochure are (+351) 21 361 46 60 and 92 604 58 83. (The +351 is the country code, much like +1 in the US, the +34 in Spain, and the +33 in France, for example. It’s three digits because Portugal joined the international telephone network later.)
The tour lasted about an hour and a half. But plan for a little more and be flexible because the friendly tour guide will share almost every detail of his knowledge about the place and welcomes as many questions as the participants wish to ask. It really was a nice tour and, though we started getting anxious about an hour in, we managed to remain in the moment for the duration of the tour. Our fleeting anxiety was due to the fact that we had limited time in Cascais, and we had come to the realization that we were probably going to miss an activity.
We had arrived at the palace at 10:45. So, we needed to kill 45 minutes while waiting for the tour to begin. As luck would have it, they had a neo-modern art exhibit within the palace complex. We really enjoy this period of art. So, this was a great way to spend about half an hour. The art was creative, aimed at social commentary of the time. If you enjoy the works of Picasso, you’re sure to enjoy this exhibit. We’re not sure if it’s a permanent exhibit or not. It seemed to be. Another feature were occasional quotes in both Portuguese and English on the walls which afforded us the opportunity to see how similar Portuguese is to Spanish.
Our Walk to Boca do Inferno
We had planned to visit the Palace starting 15 minutes earlier and the guided tour lasted a half hour longer than the time we had planned to spend there. As a result, we had to eliminate the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães from our agenda. According to Visitlisboa.com, this museum stands out for its "art collections, Indo-Portuguese china and archaeological finds." (https://www.visitlisboa.com/en/places/museum-of-the-counts-of-castro-guimaraes, downloaded May 25, 2025) We did get to see it from the outside on our walk to to the Boca do Inferno. It's one of the photos in the gallery below.
Having eliminated that, we took the twenty-minute walk along the sea to Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), which is a rock formation by the sea that you can peer down into and then enjoy the views of the sea with the occasional sailboat cruising by. This walk is very straight forward. You just exit the north side of the Citadel in the direction of town or the west side of the marina, turn left, and follow the white cobblestone sidewalk all the way there.
Along the coast there are numerous outcroppings of black rock with waves crashing into them. And, if you’re inclined to take a small hike among the rocky seaside, you can get a closer look, and maybe sit on a rock and enjoy the views. Right by the Boca do Inferno, there are various restaurants and places for refreshments as well as an artisan mall of sorts with 25 stalls. We found a few treasures to bring home with us. Bring cash. The merchant we bought from did not accept cards for payment, and we suspect the other vendors here may do the same.
Back to the Cascais Village
We then made our way back into town, heading back to the Citadel and then following the sidewalk around to the left, eventually making it to the main beach where people were sunbating and playing volleyball. There are hotels and other lodging opportunities in Cascais, and it’s a lovely town. So, you could spend a few days here in season, shopping, cruising, and soaking in the sun.
Beyond the main beach, there are stairs leading up into the village. After going up the steps, continue for about 100 meters and you’ll catch a glimpse of Praia da Rainha by looking over the sea wall. This little beach apparently has a fascinating royal connection! It was the private beach of Queen (Rainha) Amélia, who chose this intimate cove as her personal retreat back in 1889. The beach earned its name "Queen's Beach" from Queen Amélia herself, who would sit on its golden sands gazing at the harbor and swim in its calm waters during the 1880s. (Our chat with MS CoPilot, May 18, 2025)
From Praia da Rainha we continued walking back past the train station and, with the help of Google Maps, found our way to Mercado da Vila, a local market with various stalls of fresh produce, fish, meats, and other grocery items. There are numerous dining options here on the perimeter. And outside there was an extensive flea market. We went inside and spied a petiscos (think tapas) place upstairs called Páteo do Petisco. So, we headed up there and had a couple beers and a couple tapas for lunch. Lunch took a bit longer than we had planned. So, we ended up getting the train back to Belém an hour later than planned.
Belém
The Jerónimos Monastery
We arrived to Belém right according to the train schedule at 4:36 PM and ascended the pedestrian overpass, heading away from the water and toward one of the main streets of the town. Again, with our earbud in, we knew we had a tight schedule because the Jerónimos Monastery was going to close at 5:30 and we wanted to get in before they stopped letting people enter. Fortunately, we had purchased the Lisboa Card which allowed us to avoid purchasing tickets, important because the line for tickets was across the street and it looked like there might be a wait. Arriving, we first went into the Church attached to Monastery where we found the tombs of Vasco Da Gama, famous for being one of the most important navigators during the age of discovery, and Luís de Camōes, one of the most famous Portuguese literary figures whose most celebrated work, the Lusiads, was first published in the mid sixteenth century. We had also visited the National Pantheon in the Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon the day before and found tombs of both of these important figures there. Apparently the ones at the National Pantheon are symbolic, not actual tombs. Their actual resting place is at the church (Santa María de Belém) of this monastery in Belém. After less than ten minutes in the church (under restoration), we headed out and found that they were still allowing people to enter the Monastery.
The Monastery's entrance was just across from the entrance to the church. At just before 5:00 we scanned our Lisboa Card at the entrance and stepped inside the Monastery. The self-guided tour was mostly devoid of information about what was before our eyes. We had been to quite a few monasteries over the years and they generally have a cloister in the center and important rooms and chapels around the perimeter. This one was perhaps the most immense cloister we had ever experienced. Words cannot express the emotions… This is a stunning place and, with just a handful of other visitors, quite peaceful.
We knew what we were looking for because we had done our homework while organizing our trip. Following we’ll share a few paragraphs about it so that you don’t have to do your own research. To be honest, we had a difficult time finding sources that we thought were reliable. We even did a trial subscription to the online Encyclopedia Britannica which we promptly cancelled due to its woeful lack of substance. We decided to chat with AI and then went digging for information to substantiate this lazy-yet-efficient form of information gathering. We spent far more time than we thought we would for the brief amount of time we would eventually spend here. Our digging substantiated the information provided to us by MS CoPilot. And our eyes served to further confirm the details we couldn’t verify with online sources. Honestly, we could have spent an hour at the Monastery. But we arrived to Belém an hour later than we had planned.
Overview of the Jerónimos Monastery
(paraphrased from our chat with MS CoPilot on April 26, 2025)
The Jerónimos Monastery is one of Portugal’s most breathtaking landmarks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This grand structure was commissioned by King Manuel I in 1501 and took nearly a century to complete. Built to commemorate Portugal’s Age of Discoveries, the monastery housed the Order of Saint Jerome (Hieronymites), whose monks provided spiritual guidance to sailors setting off on perilous journeys.
Designed in the Manueline style, the monastery embodies Portugal’s maritime glory, merging Gothic, Renaissance, and Moorish influences. Every arch, column, and vaulted ceiling tells a story, ornately carved with maritime motifs, religious symbols, and botanical flourishes, reflecting the riches brought back from India, Africa, and Brazil. The main features are its cloister, the Chapter House, and the Refectory Hall.
The Cloisters: A Symphony of Manueline Artistry
Entering the cloister, you step into one of the most exquisite architectural spaces in Europe. This two-level courtyard, built with delicate limestone, offers tranquility and grandeur in equal measure. Unlike typical cloisters that are plain and functional, the Jerónimos Cloisters are a feast for the eyes, embodying the symbolic richness of Portugal’s maritime past.
What to Notice:
Intricate Columns: Every column and arch is adorned with sea creatures, ropes, coral patterns, and navigational instruments—a tribute to Portugal’s seafaring achievements.
Vaulted Ceilings: The ribbed ceilings resemble ship hulls, reinforcing the monastery’s connection to exploration.
Royal Emblems: Look for the Cross of Christ and King Manuel I’s Armillary Sphere, both symbols of Portuguese navigation supremacy.
Upper-Level Viewpoints: The second-floor cloister provides panoramic views of the lush inner courtyard, revealing perfect symmetry.
The cloisters served as a meditative space for monks, ensuring silence and spiritual reflection amidst Portugal’s age of expansion.
The Chapter House: A Hall of Secrets and Governance
The Chapter House (Sala do Capítulo) functioned as the monastery’s central decision-making room, where monks gathered to discuss important matters. It took nearly two centuries to complete due to engineering challenges—specifically the difficulty in supporting the expansive vault without central columns.
The Refectory Hall: A Feast for the Hieronymite Monks
The Refectory (Refeitório) was where monks ate in silence, reflecting on scriptures as they dined. Today, it remains one of the most awe-inspiring dining halls in monastic Europe.
What to Observe:
16th-Century Azulejo Panels: These traditional blue-and-white tile murals depict biblical scenes, including the Feeding of the Five Thousand—a nod to the concept of sustenance as spiritual nourishment.
Ornate Ceiling & Pillars: These elements mirror Gothic cathedral construction, reinforcing the monastery’s grandeur.
Stone Benches & Tables: Used by monks, these heavy slabs symbolize simplicity and communal living. These were not present when we visited, making us wonder whether they are ever there or if they had been temporarily removed for some reason. As we noted previously, the Church was in the midst of being restored. So, perhaps these benches and tables had also been included in the restoration efforts.
The silence during meals was sacred, fostering deep contemplation within this artistic space.
As we stated earlier, this place was one of the most incredible sacred spaces we’ve seen. We plan to bring other back to visit sometime soon.
Torre de Belem, One of the Most Iconic Landmarks in Portugal
Next, we took several minutes to photograph the exterior of the Monastery before heading on a 15-minute walk to the Belém tower. We had the good fortune to cut our walk time in half. As luck would have it, bus 15E arrived at the stop near the monastery just as we were approaching the stop. We hopped on, scanned our Lisboa Card, and hoped that the next stop would get us closer. It did! The next stop was right where we would have turned to take the pedestrian walkway over to the seaside park by the Belém Tower.
The Belém Tower, built between 1515 and 1521 by Francisco de Arruda, showcases Moorish-inspired architecture with decorative balconies and watchtowers. Originally a fortress, it later served as a prison, with flooded underground cells. Some historians suggest it functioned more as an outpost due to its exposed location.
In the 1840s, King Ferdinand II restored the tower, adding neo-Manueline elements. It was declared a national monument in 1910. (https://torrebelem.com/en/, downloaded May 22, 2025) When we visited, it was closed for restoration. So, we were not able to go inside. It was still worth a visit because of its historical significance and the beauty of the architecture, not to mention the surrounding park where people were enjoying picnics along the banks of the Tagus.
Monument to the Discoveries
The Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), originally built in 1940 for the Portuguese World Exhibition, was reconstructed in 1960 using concrete and Leiria stone to honor 500 years since Henry the Navigator’s death.
The monument resembles a ship setting sail, with Henry at the front and 32 figures representing explorers, cartographers, and artists along its sides. Its mast-like central structure features Portuguese coats of arms, while triangular elements give the illusion of wind-filled sails. (https://padraodosdescobrimentos.pt/en/monument-to-the-discoveries/, downloaded May 22, 2025)
Inside, a six-floor elevator and 41 steps lead to an observation deck, offering panoramic views of Lisbon. From the top, you can see the Cristo Rei monument across the river to the south, Jerónimos Monastery to the north, and Belém Tower to the west. Admission was free with the Lisboa Card!
MAAT
Opened in 2016, the MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology is a cultural hub in Belém, fostering creative discourse on art, architecture, and technology.
It includes MAAT Central, a former power station from 1908, and MAAT Gallery, a contemporary space connected via MAAT Garden along the Tagus River. Exhibits feature temporary showcases, The Electricity Factory at Central Tejo, and outdoor sculptures. Contemplating the contemporary building from the south. it sort of looked like the nose of a shark with the opening at the café resembling its mouth. From other vantage points it probably looks nothing like a shark. It is really an elegant structure.
Visitors can access a rooftop viewpoint with panoramic views of the Tagus River, the Belém district, and landmarks like Belém Tower and Jerónimos Monastery. The contemporary building also has a terrace café, where you can enjoy refreshments while taking in the stunning river views.
We had wanted to spend an hour or so here exploring the museum. But we spent more time in Cascais than we had planned to. So, this was a sacrifice. We'll gladly return and spend the time here that it deserves!
Pasteis de Belém
Just a stone’s throw from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, Pastéis de Belém has been serving its legendary custard tarts since 1837, following an ancient, secret recipe handed down from the monastery itself. As their website states, "That secret recipe is recreated every day in our bakery, by hand, using only traditional methods. Even today, the Pastéis de Belém offer the unique flavour of time-honoured Portuguese sweet making." (https://pasteisdebelem.pt/en/, downloaded May 22, 2025) This dedication to authenticity has made them one of Lisbon’s most iconic treats.
Expect a line outside, but don’t worry, it moves quickly thanks to their efficient system. Inside, you’ll find more than just pastries; you can also buy port wine, ginja, and other local specialties. When you finally get your warm, flaky pastéis (the plural for pastel), they come with packets of sugar and cinnamon, though they’re plenty sweet without extra sugar. We might have sprinkled the cinnamon, but we didn’t get the chance. We devoured them the moment we stepped out the door.
Train to Cais do Sodré
After savoring the legendary Pastéis de Belém, I took a leisurely stroll back toward the train station, making a quick stop at a small shop to pick up a bottle of Licor de Ginja, specifically the Mariquinhas brand, perfect for enjoying later. For readers who can purchase duty free items at the airport, this brand of Ginja liquor is available there at a better price.
Crossing the pedestrian overpass, I wondered how ticket validation worked, since there were no barriers before reaching the platform. At the top of the stairs, clear signage directed travelers toward trains bound for Cais do Sodré (central Lisbon) or Cascais, double-checking is key!
After heading down the steps to the platform, I spotted a small validation machine near the station building where a few others were validating their tickets. There, I simply tapped my Lisboa Card to register my trip. With trains running every 20 minutes, departing at 16, 36, and 56 minutes past the hour, timing was easy to plan, ensuring a smooth return journey.
Dinner in Bairro Alto
It was dinnertime when I arrived at Cais do Sodré, so I decided to walk up the hill, following Rua das Flores, passing through Praça de Luís Camões, and continuing along Rua do Norte in search of a spot I had noticed a few days earlier, Antonia Petiscos at Rua do Norte 49.
Along the way and just a short distance away from the train/metro station, I passed the iconic Pink Street, which was bustling with activity. There were people seated at outdoor terraces enjoying the spectacle of drag queens in the street.
Maybe 10 minutes later I arrived at the restaurant. Unfortunately, it was packed, and they directed me to their sister restaurant around the corner. Before I found it, I stumbled upon Restaurante Volta dos Sabores at Rua da Borraca 106-108. There, I settled in with a mug (or two) of draft beer, enjoying a mixed salad and a plate of grilled octopus with roasted vegetables. To finish, I had a sip of Ginja before paying the bill and strolling back to my hotel.
Besides what we already mentioned, we missed a lot in both Cascais and Belém. In Cascais, we missed seeing a museum we had wanted to see (Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães), and in Belém we missed spending time at the MAAT museum. We also could have spent time catching some rays on the beach in Cascais or visiting the recently opened MACAM (Museo de Arte Contemporánea Armando Martins) that just opened in March 2025 in Belem. We also could have visited on a day when there was a match or other event at the Estádio do Restelo, built on top of a quarry behind the Jerónimos Monastery. In short, when planning our trip we relied a little bit on social media to determine how much time to spend in Cascais and Belém. For some, a day might be plenty of time to see both. But, we like to do deep dives and really get to know a place. So, we really could have spent a day or more in Cascais and a day or more in Belém.
Our day trip to Cascais and Belém was a whirlwind of coastal beauty, historic landmarks, and unforgettable flavors. From the tranquil coves and citadel in Cascais to the grand architecture and rich maritime history of Belém, every stop offered a new perspective on Portugal’s vibrant past and present. Topping it off with a warm Pastel de Belém, scenic train rides, and a delicious dinner in Bairro Alto, this itinerary packed the best of both destinations into a single, well-paced day. Whether you follow this exact route or adjust it to your own travel style, Cascais and Belém are must-visit gems that deserve a spot on your Lisbon itinerary.
Have you visited Cascais or Belém? What was most memorable for you?
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