Cordoba Spain! Culture and Charm, a Day of History and Delight
- Charles Jordan
- Mar 30
- 8 min read
Our Stop En Route to Sevilla
A Day of History, Culture, and Culinary Delights in Córdoba
Today we're writing about one of our past adventures. It was March 15, 2023 when we once again said goodbye to one of our favorite cities, Madrid, after five days of fun and entertainment. We were heading to Sevilla. Knowing that Córdoba was along the way, we made a planned memorable stop there. Córdoba, Spain, with several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, was an ideal place to break up the journey and immerse ourselves in Andalusian charm. The introduction to the article about the Historic Centre of Cordoba on the UNESCO site states the following. "Cordoba's period of greatest glory began in the 8th century after the Moorish conquest, when some 300 mosques and innumerable palaces and public buildings were built to rival the splendours of Constantinople, Damascus and Baghdad. In the 13th century, under Ferdinand III, the Saint, Cordoba's Great Mosque was turned into a cathedral and new defensive structures, particularly the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and the Torre Fortaleza de la Calahorra, were erected." (link in text above, downloaded on March 30, 2025)
With no advance tickets for historic sites and perfect timing on a weekday, we experienced a seamless and relaxed afternoon. If you're going on a weekend or during high season, we think the better play would be to purchase tickets to all main attractions in advance. Here's how our day unfolded, complete with unexpected surprises and delightful detours.
Morning: Madrid to Córdoba on the AVE
We set out bright and early at 8:30 AM, heading to Madrid's Atocha train station for the 9:35 AM AVE high-speed train to Córdoba. Our taxi dropped us at the train station about 50 minutes before our scheduled departure. This was plenty of time and we actually had time to spare, even with the extra luggage we had in tow (we've since learned the joys of traveling with just hand luggage). The journey was smooth and comfortable, and by 11:27 AM, we arrived in the historic city. The train station is in the modern part of the city, away from the historic area. So, we took a taxi to get closer.
Taxis and Luggage Storage
When you do a stop like this, you need a place to store your luggage while you explore. We had made arrangements to store our luggage at Hospedería Luís de Góngora, a small hotel on the edge of the judería. The taxi was able to drop us in a small plaza nearby. The driver was super friendly and accommodating, handling our luggage with expertise. We offered a few euros as a tip, but he wouldn't accept them. Dropping our luggage at the hotel was a seamless experience.
Sidebar: Back when we were planning our trip, we had difficulty finding a place to store our luggage for the day. A quick google search just now led us to various options with Bounce.com, a couple very close to the train station. Storing your bags near the train station would definitely be the better option for people with a lot of luggage. Our return trip to the train station at the end of our day was from a nearby taxi stand where there were no large taxis. So, we had to take two... Be sure to reserve enough lockers for all of your stuff. Exploring is so much better when unencumbered.
Noon: Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba
Our first destination at noon was the iconic Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, a breathtaking blend of Islamic and Christian architecture. The interior is renowned for its mesmerizing forest of red-and-white horseshoe arches, which stretch out in seemingly endless symmetry, creating a sense of grandeur and wonder. Originally built as a mosque, its design reflects the artistry of Islamic architects, while later additions showcase Christian elements, such as the central nave and ornate chapels added during the Reconquista (see below). Highlights include the stunning mihrab (see below), adorned with intricate mosaics, and the majestic cathedral choir, surrounded by soaring columns. The juxtaposition of architectural styles makes the Mezquita a true masterpiece, offering visitors a glimpse into Córdoba's layered history.
Some Useful Definitions
The Reconquest (La Reconquista) was a significant period in Iberian history, marked by the Christian kingdoms' gradual reclaiming of territories from Muslim rule, culminating in 1492 with the fall of Granada. It unified Spain under the Catholic Monarchs, reshaped the region's cultural and demographic landscape through the expulsion of Jews and Muslims, and left a lasting legacy in architecture and art. Its completion also fueled Spain's Age of Exploration, enabling global expansion and shaping the course of history.
A mihrab is a semicircular niche or recess found in the wall of a mosque, indicating the qibla—the direction Muslims face when praying, toward Mecca.
The choir of a cathedral is a designated area within the church, typically located between the nave and the sanctuary, where the clergy and choir members gather to perform liturgical music and prayers during services. It is often marked by ornate wooden stalls, called choir stalls, designed for seating the choir. This area is an integral part of cathedral architecture, often elaborately decorated and sometimes enclosed by screens, emphasizing its sacred function in worship.
The Rosemary is not Lucky in Córdoba
In Córdoba, be aware of a "lucky rosemary scam" where individuals offer you a rosemary twig and then demand payment (typically between €5 and €20.) for fortune-telling services, often escalating to pressure tactics if you refuse. If a person approaches you offering a sprig of rosemary or something similar, just ignore them and be on your way. This is not a time to be polite. It's truly a scam. Though the person with the herbal offering might seem worthy of your gracious attention, they are not. It's purely a scam. There's nothing sweet about the situation. We only encountered this in the area immediately outside the Mezquita.
Early Afternoon: Exploring the Jewish Quarter
From the Mezquita, we headed down to the river to walk across the roman bridge where we caught a glimpse of the Torre Fortaleza de la Calahorra on the other side. Then we wandered through the Jewish Quarter (Judería) in the early afternoon. The experience of strolling through the narrow, whitewashed streets felt like stepping back in time. These charming alleys are dotted with quaint shops, artisan boutiques, and cozy cafes, offering everything from handmade ceramics to local delicacies like olive oil, spices, and sweets. There are also small museums and galleries showcasing Córdoba's rich history. Instead of visiting the Synagogue as originally planned, we decided to browse the Judería’s shops, picking up unique souvenirs and enjoying the vibrant ambiance of this historic neighborhood.
Lunchtime: A Culinary Surprise at El Caballo Rojo
Initially, we had planned to dine at Restaurante Regadera, but as serendipity would have it, we found ourselves at El Caballo Rojo instead. Recommended by a restauranteur friend in Madrid, this celebrated eatery exceeded our expectations. We relished a long, leisurely lunch featuring Andalusian flavors that perfectly complemented the city’s heritage.
Among the entrees we enjoyed were goose confit in a Pedro Jimenez sherry sauce. We're calling it out here for the sauce, made with Pedro Ximénez (PX) sherry (this is not a brand but rather a type of sherry). The sauce is known for its deep, caramel-like flavor with notes of raisins, figs, and molasses. It is often used to enhance savory dishes, such as pork, duck, or beef, and pairs beautifully with cheeses or even desserts like ice cream. If this sounds delicious to you, it is! look for it on menus throughout Spain and especially in Andalucia (both the sauce and the wine).
As an aside, if you're planning a trip to Jerez de la Frontera, you should book a sherry tour well in advance. We recently wrote about our trip to Jerez were we did a sherry tour, a highlight of our day there.
The service at El Caballo Rojo was impeccable. Our waiter was very friendly. After dessert was served, he asked if we wanted a photo and proceeded to go upstairs and photograph us from above, looking down into the courtyard where we were seated. We had pleasant conversation and a few laughs with each other and with our waiter. It was definitely a culinary highlight of our trip! We're glad we got to experience El Caballo Rojo, for sure. Maybe we'll be back again to try Restaurante Regadera, where the chef has received many accolades.
Afternoon: Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
After lunch we made our way to the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, a fortress steeped in history, with beautiful architecture and manicured gardens. The structure comprises four walls, each with a tower at its corners. Within, key spaces include two patios—the Patio Morisco and the Patio de las Mujeres—created during the Inquisition era, along with the Hall of Mosaics (Salón de los Mosaicos) and a connecting passageway to the Royal Stables. The gardens, accessible through the Patio Morisco, are arranged on three terraces, adorned with lush vegetation, fountains, and the Paseo de los Reyes, featuring sculptures of monarchs, including the Catholic Monarchs. (https://alcazardelosreyescristianos.cordoba.es/?id=3, downloaded March 30, 2025) This combination of architectural splendor and serene gardens made the Alcázar a true highlight of our day. Oddly, we know we took numerous photos of the interior rooms and gardens of the Alcázar. But we're not finding most of them in our image library. So, we'll share the ones we can find. You can purchase tickets at the Alcázar website (linked in the text above) or buy them at the kiosk across the quaint plaza from the entrance.
El Patio Morisco
Located on the western side of the Alcázar near the Tower of the Inquisition (Torre de la Inquisición), the Patio Morisco is a square courtyard surrounded by arcaded galleries, except on its western side, where a wall connects the Torre de los Leones to the Torre de la Inquisición and provides mid-level access to the gardens. Featuring a Moorish style, the patio is centered around a fountain with a jet and two ponds fed by small channels. Its Andalusian garden-inspired vegetation includes orange and lemon trees, low hedges of boxwood and wallflowers, and aromatic jasmine climbing along the walls. (https://alcazardelosreyescristianos.es/patio-morisco/, downloaded on March 30, 2025)
El Patio de las Mujeres
The Patio de las Mujeres] derives its name from the late 15th century when the Alcázar was used as a prison by the Inquisition, and this patio was where female prisoners were held. (https://alcazardelosreyescristianos.es/patio-de-las-mujeres/, downloaded on March 30, 2025)
Hall of Mosaics
The rectangular hall, originally used as a basilica, was restructured in the 18th century with intersecting barrel vaults, creating a crescent shape and ornate geometric ceilings. Its second section, slightly elevated and topped with a dome, housed the chapel’s main altar, serving both Catholic rituals and Inquisition trials until 1820, when the Inquisition was abolished, and the building became a military prison. Constructed above the Baths of Doña Leonor, it also served as a torture chamber and punishment cells.
In 1958, during restoration efforts at the Alcázar, twelve Roman mosaics from the 2nd and 3rd centuries were discovered in Córdoba's Plaza de la Corredera. The extraction of these mosaics had been recommended by the municipal architect. Thus, they were relocated to the hall—formerly the Inquisition chapel—and installed as wall decorations in 1959. Since then, the space has been known as the "Hall of Mosaics," one of the Alcázar's most celebrated attractions. Today, the hall serves as a venue for civil weddings and other significant municipal events. (https://alcazardelosreyescristianos.es/el-salon-de-los-mosaicos/, downloaded on March 30, 2025)
Evening: Onward to Sevilla
With our hearts full of Córdoba’s history and charm, we picked up our luggage and headed back to the train station. Our train was supposed to board at 5:47 PM, but it arrived about a half hour late. Eventually we boarded the AVE train to Sevilla, arriving at Sevilla Santa Justa station around 7:00 PM. As we settled into the rhythm of the train ride, we reflected on an incredible day that had seamlessly blended history, culture, and cuisine.
Closing Thoughts
Our stop in Córdoba proved to be a perfect interlude in our journey to Sevilla. Despite not following our original agenda to the letter, the flexibility and spontaneous discoveries only added to the magic of the day. From the awe-inspiring Mezquita to the unexpected delights at El Caballo Rojo, and the beauty of the Alcázar, Córdoba exceeded all of our expectations. For anyone traveling from Madrid to Sevilla, a stop in this enchanting city is an absolute must. Don’t over-plan; let the day unfold at its own pace—you won’t regret it.
Are you planning a visit to Córdoba? What are you most looking forward to when you go?
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